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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1008

post #10071 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEEDemon View Post
Here ya go:
http://www.technps.com/liquid-coolin...-hardware.html

and no, I wouldn't recommend putting your vga card into the loop, the system would simply not have enough power for that, i.e. i don't think the pump would be strong enough and that would be a lot for a single 240mm radiator to cool. You specifically might be able to get away with doing it because you don't have an overly powerful card, but I still recommend against it.
you gave me a link for a ready water cooling i just need the 240mm RAD.

Do you mean that the H50 Rad is enough for the case i mentioned and what's your opinion in this one :
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9310306

also i think to buy a GPU block for the future not only for my current card i mean an universal GPU block for ati & nvidia.
Edited by alayoubi - 6/17/10 at 3:11pm
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post #10072 of 28368
Here you go...

Black Ice® GT Stealth 240 Highest Performance Radiator-29.6mm thick

This one is just slightly thicker than the H50 Rad which is 24mm thick so you won't lose much space and it has bungs for a variety of fittings. If you go to a custom loop you can change them w/o fear of them being the wrong size for your needs.

~Ceadder




Quote:
Originally Posted by alayoubi View Post
you gave me a link for a ready water cooling i just need the 240mm RAD.

Do you mean that the H50 Rad is enough for the case i mentioned and what's your opinion in this one :
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9310306

also i think to buy a GPU block for the future not only for my current card i mean an universal GPU block for ati & nvidia.
 
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post #10073 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Here you go...

Black Ice® GT Stealth 240 Highest Performance Radiator-29.6mm thick

This one is just slightly thicker than the H50 Rad which is 24mm thick so you won't lose much space and it has bungs for a variety of fittings. If you go to a custom loop you can change them w/o fear of them being the wrong size for your needs.

~Ceadder
Thanks Dude ..

OK ,, is the stock H50 Rad enough for the cpu and gpu blocks togather ??
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post #10074 of 28368
Do you mean the Pump?

I'm sure the stock Rad would be enough as you're not really introducing a stopper or unimaginable length to the system. So long as the pump stays submerged it should have enough power for the stock Rad. Not sure about the extended Rad AND another block. But people add Reservoirs so anything is possible I guess.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by alayoubi View Post
Thanks Dude ..

OK ,, is the stock H50 Rad enough for the cpu and gpu blocks togather ??
 
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post #10075 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Two = fans are better but you can put the Corsair fan in the puller spot. Otherwise the higher rated fan will lag the Corsair fan. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology there. Just remember weaker fan at Pull and Stronger fan at Push.

~Ceadder
Just to make sure I have this right, I'm going from this setup...

< Case | Rad | CoolerMaster R4 <

To...

< Case | Corsair | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <

With the air still exiting the case, the R4 being the pusher in this line-up.

Correct?
 
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post #10076 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Just to make sure I have this right, I'm going from this setup...

< Case | Rad | CoolerMaster R4 <

To...

< Case | Corsair | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <

With the air still exiting the case, the R4 being the pusher in this line-up.

Correct?
You got it!
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post #10077 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmisery View Post
You got it!
Only a 1-2c drop in CPU temp. May remove the Corsair fan, mount the rad back to the case, and put a 38-50mm shroud between the rad and the R4 to see if that yields a better drop in temps.

Here's a current screenshot of my temps at idle/stock clocks with an ambient temp around 75...



Should I be running the H50 power off the CPU fan plug on the motherboard, or should I be running it on molex where my 7 120mm fans pull their power from? Reason I ask is because I'm not sure if I should have the pump running full duty all the time, or fluctuate based on what the BIOS tells it to do.
Edited by johnny.dot.exe - 6/17/10 at 6:58pm
 
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post #10078 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Should I be running the H50 power off the CPU fan plug on the motherboard, or should I be running it on molex where my 7 120mm fans pull their power from? Reason I ask is because I'm not sure if I should have the pump running full duty all the time, or fluctuate based on what the BIOS tells it to do.
The pump should be running 100% at all times. You can do this by either plugging directly off the PSU or off a motherboard header. If you decide to use the motherboard header, just be sure to go into BIOS and turn off any fan header controlling. Doing so, allows it to run at 100%. So, either way will work, it just depends on how you wish to power it.
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post #10079 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmisery View Post
The pump should be running 100% at all times. You can do this by either plugging directly off the PSU or off a motherboard header. If you decide to use the motherboard header, just be sure to go into BIOS and turn off any fan header controlling. Doing so, allows it to run at 100%. So, either way will work, it just depends on how you wish to power it.
Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?
 
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post #10080 of 28368
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?
That's normal. It should stay close to 1400rpm. Usually the CPU fan header won't vary the voltage when you stick a 3pin plug (pump) into it.
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