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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1009

post #10081 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by looser101 View Post
That's normal. It should stay close to 1400rpm. Usually the CPU fan header won't vary the voltage when you stick a 3pin plug (pump) into it.
Yeah, it's ranging from 1385 to 1426, staying around 1400 most of the time. In my BIOS I can choose 3pin or 4pin for the CPU plug, and turn off the CPU smart target crap.

Well, looks like 30-32c is my new idle temp. Currently sitting at 42c while playing BFBC2 maxed out in 1440x900 windowed mode. Not too bad.
 
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post #10082 of 28303
Stick to the Optional Fan placement. If you go CPU placement the pump will fluctuate and not operate at peak speeds. Which is where you want it to run. Then plug your fans in at the CPU connector and that should keep your system running optimally I believe. Yup just looked over the literature again and sure enough...

Fan ---> CPU connector
Pump---> Any available 3 pin...(Option 1 is probably best)

If you go with option 1 you'll know exactly which fan to set to full speed in the BIOS.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?
 
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post #10083 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Stick to the Optional Fan placement. If you go CPU placement the pump will fluctuate and not operate at peak speeds. Which is where you want it to run. Then plug your fans in at the CPU connector and that should keep your system running optimally I believe. Yup just looked over the literature again and sure enough...

Fan ---> CPU connector
Pump---> Any available 3 pin...(Option 1 is probably best)

If you go with option 1 you'll know exactly which fan to set to full speed in the BIOS.

~Ceadder
All seven of my 120mm fans are running off molex...two front, two side, one top, two rear for push/pull on rad. The only thing plugged in to the fan headers on the motherboard is the H50 pump.
 
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post #10084 of 28303
Ahhhh, unlike moi, who has them all but 2 plugged into the MoBo.

At least my Power Fan and CPU fan points will be available to me.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
All seven of my 120mm fans are running off molex...two front, two side, one top, two rear for push/pull on rad. The only thing plugged in to the fan headers on the motherboard is the H50 pump.
 
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post #10085 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Ahhhh, unlike moi, who has them all but 2 plugged into the MoBo.

At least my Power Fan and CPU fan points will be available to me.

~Ceadder
Yeah, I wanted all my fans to run at max so I created a female molex harness to plug in to the molex rail from the PSU and ran the other end to a 12post/6rail terminal block. One side is the "hot side", and the other side is where all my fans connect. Cuts down on a ton of wiring, and hides it all behind the motherboard panel.

Here's a pic of my molex terminal block before I connected all my fans to it...



Keep forgetting to get a pic of it all hooked up.
 
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post #10086 of 28303
Nice series work on that block. That's a helluva idea.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Yeah, I wanted all my fans to run at max so I created a female molex harness to plug in to the molex rail from the PSU and ran the other end to a 12post/6rail terminal block. One side is the "hot side", and the other side is where all my fans connect. Cuts down on a ton of wiring, and hides it all behind the motherboard panel.

Here's a pic of my molex terminal block before I connected all my fans to it...



Keep forgetting to get a pic of it all hooked up.
 
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ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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post #10087 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
3 things...

1) Solid lapping.

2) Looks like a primo moddification of your H50

3) Please tell me that's not Automotive Grade Antifreeze?
Remember that stuff does not go down a drain (leeches into water table), animals are prone to ingest the stuff(smells sweet) to a painfully gory end, and it's only meant for freezing temps. Hence the term anti-freeze. ALSO point of order here is that stuff gives off vapors when it's burned. So you definitely want to either change it out or continue paying $10 a gal to keep it filled. It still evaporates like standard h2o. But the point is Ethylene Glycol is nothing the shag about with.

I apologize for the negative (rant) feedback, but this is the 3rd time I've now seen its use and to me that's scary since I worked in the Automotive industry for a bit. Especially when Distilled Water is readily had for under $2 a gallon, is a solid coolant and with a bit of food coloring can be dyed. All you need is an anti-corrosive added to the mix and you're good.

Oh that reminds me... Anti-Freeze is a corrosive compound. Not good in a loop. Even one that's self contained.

I apologize for the bluntness.

~Ceadder
nope. that's not a automotive antifreeze coolant or wadever automotive ****.
it's a UV coolant from swiftech.
nah, don't have to apologize. and thanks for the advice.
post #10088 of 28303
getting 35-37 idle and 49-52 load. Are these good temps?
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post #10089 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by vietrice89 View Post
getting 35-37 idle and 49-52 load. Are these good temps?
That's about what I was getting with my H50 + R4 on my 965BE. I added a second fan to the rad for push/pull and reduced the temps about 2c.
 
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post #10090 of 28303
I have a push/pull. It's at the front of my case as an intake. It use to be at the back but I didn't like not being able to have 2 side fans so tinkered around to make it fit. Reduced my temps a good 3-4 degrees
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