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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1024

post #10231 of 28247
Lapping is a tedious process of slowly sanding down the surface to give it a mirror like finish.

Edit: lapping can be done on CPU's but is not recomended since it voids any waranty and usualy drops the re-sell of the chip.

In mass production the surfface is not always flat or level, this means when you seat the copper base you are not getting the best conatact that can be achived. you will have high spots and low spots, thermal paste can fix some of this, but in some rare instances it is to much and either should be warranty replaced or fixed my smothing the surface.
Edited by Magus2727 - 6/21/10 at 12:32pm
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post #10232 of 28247
Oh ok, I don't think I will be up to that... so the H50 has enough paste to reseat it at least once without re applying would you say?
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post #10233 of 28247
any time you re-seat a heat shink you will want to completly clean every thing off and re apply about a grain of rice (is what most people say) in the center or do some sort of small x in the middle.
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post #10234 of 28247
Guys, what are your temperatures with this cooler? (include room temperatures pls!)

Thank you.
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post #10235 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by sudosub View Post
Oh ok, I don't think I will be up to that... so the H50 has enough paste to reseat it at least once without re applying would you say?
Like said above don't reseat it without cleaning off the old and then reapplying more TIM.


I would not go over 55C ever I have the same processor OC to 4.0 stable and the max I have seen Prime95 is 56C and only for just a second steadied out at 55C anything above 63C has the chance to damage the chip so anything close to that your just asking to shorten the life if your chip.
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post #10236 of 28247
So I'm debating as to whether I should pick up this cooler ($52 AR/BCB) or a $25 sunbeam core contact...for my i7 920. Yes...of course I'll be overclocking it.

The only thing I'm worried about is this "clicking" / "buzzing" noise that some people are complaining about. I have a fish tank at home that has an air pump which also buzzes..but it's reaching the end of its life now.

I believe eventually all H50s will develop this buzz as the pump wears out. How long before this happens? Is anyone else suffering from this buzz as well here?

Thanks...
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post #10237 of 28247
I want to order a clear tuping from this link for Modding H50 :
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty201id3odul.html

and its written :
Tygon is packaged in 50 foot boxes. Choose the number of feet you'd like in the Quantity Field below.

so Quantity of 1 in this case means 1 Foot ??

And how long tubes will i need Approximatly between rad , res, CPU Pump/block and one GPU block ? i know its depending on my case but what is much enough to do it ?
-------------
another Question plz :
Can i use a distilled water that used in car's battery/radiator ?
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post #10238 of 28247
Ok im not finding what i need to know in the air cooling forum. The thing is im trying to get away from the H50 and replace it with a air cooler from frys but im sure someone here wants these.

What would be close to equal performance of the H50 from frys? anything?

I was looking at the Zalman CNPS10X Extreme but cant confirm it will fit on a Classified with 12GB ram

Thanks guys for any input
Edited by Bodycount - 6/21/10 at 5:17pm
post #10239 of 28247
Well my H50 arrived today. Man the shinetsu is thick! I ended up scraping it off, and rolling half of it into a little ball (squishing the air out and rolling it gently again).

So far.. max load is 38c at 3.8ghz 1.4v on m 550BE. Ill start clocking this sucker for 4ghz soon.
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post #10240 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKswe View Post
so, do you have the hoses at the top or bottom of the radiator?
My hoses are on the bottom.
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