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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1032

post #10311 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabster View Post
SimplyTheBest:
Check your BIOS or HW Monitor or something, it should be running at around ~1450 RPM
Mine was running at 1323-1333 off the CHA_FAN3 header on my mobo. I switched it to the PWR_FAN header instead and now it's running at 1350-1360.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navit View Post
I had to plug mine in a controller to get mine 1400+, mobo would only get it to 1350
I may have to try that. Would one Ultra KAZE run OK off the mobo for a small test? I don't want to put too powerful of a fan on the mobo if it's going to cause problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by digital_steve View Post
My pump runs at 1320-1360 RPM off the northbridge header... i figured that 40RPM wasn't going to make all that much difference.
All my runs run a few tens under their rated RPM; i ran a y splitter on the CPU header and run my push/pull fans from that, then i know that they're both running at the same RPM regardless.
That's what mine is running at now. My Ultra KAZE's run lower than the said 3000 RPM's using my fan controller, but they still move a crap load of air! In fact, since removing the pull fan's shroud (for space reasons) they even got a little louder.
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post #10312 of 28303
@scott...

Hey Mate you'll have better temps if you 180 the Rad so the fittings are at the bottom.

Other than that, that's a sick sick sick setup. That 2010 is huge compared to my 932.

~Ceadder
 
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post #10313 of 28303
why so will the temps be better?
either way the pump is pushing the water the same distance........
Or is it something like hot water rises....lol
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post #10314 of 28303
post #10315 of 28303
Well it helps your pump last longer for one. It will work the way it is now but air gets trapped there causing the pump to work itself to death. Remember now, there IS air in the system. The question is do you want to alleviate the possibility of trapping it in the fittings(even @ the pump) or do you want to allow the system to naturally purge it to a spot where it will be trapped and be rendered harmless to the cooler?

My Rad is horizontal so any air in my system gets trapped at the top of the Rad where it sits harmless and allows my system to function properly.

Check the link in my sig for how it's set up. Got a vid put together about my system.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottath View Post
why so will the temps be better?
either way the pump is pushing the water the same distance........
Or is it something like hot water rises....lol
 
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post #10316 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Well it helps your pump last longer for one. It will work the way it is now but air gets trapped there causing the pump to work itself to death. Remember now, there IS air in the system. The question is do you want to alleviate the possibility of trapping it in the fittings(even @ the pump) or do you want to allow the system to naturally purge it to a spot where it will be trapped and be rendered harmless to the cooler?

My Rad is horizontal so any air in my system gets trapped at the top of the Rad where it sits harmless and allows my system to function properly.

Check the link in my sig for how it's set up. Got a vid put together about my system.

~Ceadder
I have also heard many people say that since it is a closed loop, there isn't much (if any) air in the loop, so this wouldn't be an issue. Plus, the manufacturer designed it that way, and instructs via video to have them at the top. Now I understand if for certain rigs placement of them at the bottom would work better, but I haven't seen any major info that suggests one will get better temps if they switch it.
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Hephaestus
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post #10317 of 28303
Even still - with the tubes at the top of the rad, the top of the rad is still above the pump - so the air will still be trapped in the rad as its the highest point.
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post #10318 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottath View Post
Even still - with the tubes at the top of the rad, the top of the rad is still above the pump - so the air will still be trapped in the rad as its the highest point.
Hmmm...very interesting...but that's a project for another day...I just removed my pull shroud, and cut my screws to fit, so I don't feel like opening it up again. Definitely something I may have to try.
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post #10319 of 28303
jfyi, the system has enough air in it that when I lapped the plate on it, you could actually hear the liquid sloshing around in the Radiator. It sure wasn't quiet about it either.

Just remember though, in any radiator system there has to be enough air in the system to allow for expansion. The higher the temp of the liquid the more air is required to allow the molecules to expand to avoid the burst point of the Rad. Now in this instance I doubt there is a lot of air in the system because the burst point should be for all intents and purposes pretty low as you're not heating the liquid very much. But they have(corsair doesn't make these btw) to have the system built to WCS specs. What's the worst case scenario... System heats up to 90c (give or take) due to part failures like fan and CPU. Something that would cause a catastrophic system failure that would put a tremendous amount of heat into the system in a short time.

Also the Corsair tech that did the vid SPECIFICALLY states that they found that it works best for them. Real world 24/7/365 is completely different to their experience as I doubt they are running that Cooler 24/7/365.

But my point right from the beginning is for people to extend the life of their H50 beyond the 2 year warranty. The cooling benefits are secondary to the suggestion. Any benefits you see would be that much more of a plus for having mounted the Rad with the fittings at the bottom of a vertical mount.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post
Hmmm...very interesting...but that's a project for another day...I just removed my pull shroud, and cut my screws to fit, so I don't feel like opening it up again. Definitely something I may have to try.
 
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Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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post #10320 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
@scott...

Hey Mate you'll have better temps if you 180 the Rad so the fittings are at the bottom.

Other than that, that's a sick sick sick setup. That 2010 is huge compared to my 932.

~Ceadder
My load temps are 1c lower @ load with the pumps on top.. No difference in idle
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