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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1084

post #10831 of 28251
Oh to lapp my H50 I started out with 2 sheets of 1000, 2 sheets of 1200, 1 sheet of 1500 and 1 sheet of 2000 grits. I also wet sanded. Not sure it was necessary to use water but I did it anyway. Then I cleaned the surface with alcohol and blew off any leftover moisture with blowoff and toweled it off with a lint free cloth.

~Ceadder
 
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post #10832 of 28251
I'm glad you got it worked out man

The process of elimination eh?

Great patience on your part being i might have taken someone out by now

ONWARD hoe huh? now you just need to get out of safe mode and hope for the best!

Fingers crossed and waiting
post #10833 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Oh to lapp my H50 I started out with 2 sheets of 1000, 2 sheets of 1200, 1 sheet of 1500 and 1 sheet of 2000 grits. I also wet sanded. Not sure it was necessary to use water but I did it anyway. Then I cleaned the surface with alcohol and blew off any leftover moisture with blowoff and toweled it off with a lint free cloth.

~Ceadder
What technique did you use when you lapped your H50? I am asking because the base has an oval shape.

When it comes to CPU's, i'd usually lap it in an up and down motion then turn it by 90 degrees and continue.
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post #10834 of 28251
@BC... Don't think the thought didn't cross my mind to hurl the whole system off the balcony. Took alot of testicular fortitude not to. lol

@TwwIX, I used up down motion through 1500 paper for two sheets and then started alternating up and down to figure 8 pattern to relieve the boredom more than anything else over the last 2 sheets of 15 and the final sheet of 2000. I sanded into the meat of my ring finger though so that prolly had more to do with the final bit. Later that day when I was putting my system back together I sprung a pinhole leak. Nvm that was the CPU.

The H50 was 2 sheets 1000 back and forth then I found that the pump likes to rock over occasionally. So I went into figure 8 mode and would count reps of ten with my left arm holding the Rad straight above the Pump and twist after every ten count. Doesn't matter which direction so long as you continue to twist after every tenth stroke. I turned it a quarter turn per rep. The idea with lapping is to get a flat surface. The H50 already has a pretty flat surface. But once you remove the TIM you'll see scratches in the plate. The idea Lapping here is to take the surface as close to a reliably flat surface as you can get it. You'll never get the valleys to rise so you want the surface to get closer to the floor of the valleys. Kind of like shaving the top surface off the Grand Canyon but not touching the floor.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwwIX View Post
What technique did you use when you lapped your H50? I am asking because the base has an oval shape.

When it comes to CPU's, i'd usually lap it in an up and down motion then turn it by 90 degrees and continue.

Edited by Ceadderman - 7/5/10 at 12:57am
 
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post #10835 of 28251
Some of you will not want to hear this and some of you will take it to heart.


The H50 lines "in/out" from the pump should have absolutely no twisting movement Mine developed a small twisting action possibly from installing and un-installing many many times over or out of the box and since we are talking about lapping the pump/block this could have the possibility of loosening the lines/fittings resulting in a leak due to the repetitive motion. I believe its standard as in righty tighty lefty loosey

Please all who read this understand i am not bashing the product i just dont want others to have to deal with what i have had to over the last 2 months.
Again im not trying to scare anyone i just want users to be aware.

Flaming me on this subject in this thread = Bodycount keeping his mouth shut
other than that i will be more than happy to anwser any questions on this matter to the best of my ability.

Edited by Bodycount - 7/5/10 at 1:31am
post #10836 of 28251
Flame flame flame flame flame...








Just kidding man. Mine has some twisting in them. Hopefully they don't result in leaks. My Rad has zero twist though.

~Ceadder



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodycount View Post
Some of you will not want to hear this and some of you will take it to heart.


The H50 lines "in/out" from the pump should have absolutely no twisting movement Mine developed a small twisting action possibly from installing and un-installing many many times over or out of the box and since we are talking about lapping the pump/block this could have the possibility of loosening the lines/fittings resulting in a leak due to the repetitive motion. I believe its standard as in righty tighty lefty loosey

Please all who read this understand i am not bashing the product i just dont want others to have to deal with what i have had to over the last 2 months.
Again im not trying to scare anyone i just want users to be aware.

Flaming me on this subject in this thread = Bodycount keeping his mouth shut
other than that i will be more than happy to anwser any questions on this matter to the best of my ability.
 
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post #10837 of 28251
@Ceadderman
Keep in mind i mean at the base of the pump lines


There is twisting on the lines going into the block?
no matter how small?

Call John Kruse "head of tech support" 1 888-222-4346 tues. and ask him about the fittings
Jelaide Ocbina "RMA rep" ext.#263 very very nice lady
Kelvin CS lead rep ext.#287
Edited by Bodycount - 7/5/10 at 1:51am
post #10838 of 28251
Yeah at the base of the pump lines. Not the Rad. I have twisting but I'm sure I'm not having issues. My only issues were with the BS plastic bosses that connect the lock ring to the base plate. Those things ain't worth a plug nickel. Wouldn't have mattered too much if I didn't have to have been messing with it for so long only to find out that the Intel inserts work best.

I'll see what's up on Tuesday cause tomorrow is still the holiday.

Thanks for the info though I appreciate the assist.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodycount View Post
@Ceadderman
Keep in mind i mean at the base of the pump lines


There is twisting on the lines going into the block?
no matter how small?

Call John Kruse "head of tech support" 1 888-222-4346 tues. and ask him about the fittings
Jelaide Ocbina "RMA rep" ext.#263 very very nice lady
Kelvin CS lead rep ext.#287
 
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post #10839 of 28251
Just want to make my first post to the thread and to Overclock.Net.

I just want to say thanks to those who have contributed to this thread as I have gained some good knowledge.

Also, I really only play Galactic Civ II though I own a PS2 too that sits in the closet and have enjoyed Medal of Honor play.

Up to page 1010 now after staring at page one, word one 2 weeks ago. I do not OC at this time, though I have taken the Q6700 to 2.88 w/ no problems figuring 3.2 will be the fastest I can run on my stuff.

I am now the proud new owner of a 932 HAF and the Cosair H50.

It's all sitting in the great room waiting on a couple more items (some AC MX-3though I have a good bit of AS Ceramique' already) before I make the swap from my Antec 300. I plan on using the stock TIM on the H50 first, however. I've got to reseat the E7300 and it's AC FP 7 in the system I'm now on in my office as it's temps are high (44C) just browsing and it has been cleaned. Figured I'd try the MX-3 on it as it's guts will go from its Rosewill case to the Antec 300.

After about page 20 of this thread, my mind & my slight touch of OCD started churning and the ordering began. I plan on mounting the H50 RAD in 3 of the HAF's 5.25" front drive bays using two 120 X 38mm UK3000 P/P w/ 2 38 mm shrouds sync'd to a Lamptron FC-5 on one channel. The wind tunnel will be filtered too. As I kept reading, many on the thread confirmed my ideas to be good.

I'll also be adding 2 Papst 120 X 38 mm W2GT110-AF45-19's @ 105 CFM with wire grills of course, one replacing the stock rear HAF and the other at the bottom with a 38 mm shroud. Theses too will be going thru the controller most likely on separate channels HAF . I figure high CFM fans undervolted w/ good static pressure capabilities is the best air solution at this time. I plan on using the three 230 mm stock fans as is.

I'm waiting on and also be adding the Corsair CMXAF2 Fan to my memory along with some Enzotech 4-in heatsinks to my MOSFETs. The P5QSE does not have these heat sinked as ASUS and others added that feature to their newer mobo's. Figured a little added insurance to these is good if I can OC that Q6700. Sleeving kits and able manage supplies are in.

I did pick up the DemciFlex filters (top too) for the 932.

Anyway, with a dog who goes out quite a bit into the woods, creek, etc....dust can be an issue with my systems and this is what started my on my quest not to mention DDR2 systems are slowly disappearing making way for the DDR3 and the new i3, i5, i7 CPU's and boards. So, I figured getting the 932 for $140 w/ free shipping was a good move at this time as it too will soon make way for the X.

I'd rather sit in my recliner, drink a cold one and surf - read hardware / OS forums than disassemble than dust a PC every 3-4 months.

I'll get some before and after pics up when I start / finish and get a post after the swap.

Though older hardware built 2 years ago, my current stuff has been reliable and does a good job for video encoding as a hobby. I can't complain as I started PC hardware upgrades back on my first PC - a IBM PC-XT, 640 KB memory @ 4.77 MHz w/ 10 MB HDD.

Anyway, Im in but not up yet!!
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post #10840 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Yup same BIOS, 0801. I checked my system specs when I got the MoBo. That was actually one of the first things I did once I realized I was having issues again.

And yeah I hate flashing a BIOS, but this one is pretty simple. Right now I'm going through my manual to make sure I don't forget something but it's looking pretty straight forward.

~Ceadder
Good Luck on the BIOS flash...had to do 2 systems of mine (P5Q Se's) a while back as a virus got in to it from a video in the background.......it's a risk, but sometimes it's the only call.
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