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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1087

post #10861 of 28303
Yes, you need to start off with coarser grit to actually smooth the base out and not just remove the nickel coating. There's dozens of lapping guides out there that will tell you the same.

3 grits, not 4. 400 then 600 OR 800 and finish it off with 1000.
Actually, anything above that is over kill and quite pointless since the nickel coating is completely gone by time you're finished with the 1000 grit.

"Ooh, a mirror finish!"

That's about useful as putting cathode lights and fancy tubing into a windowless case.
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post #10862 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwwIX View Post
Who is going to look at it?

As i said, waste of time and money.
Some people, such as I, wouldn't see that as a waste of time.

Money maybe, time no.
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post #10863 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by WTHbot View Post
You should set it up as a Pull rather then push.
Does it really make much of a difference? At the moment I am getting the same temps for push as I did with pull. I might change it around next time I go into my case, if it will actually make a difference.

Also, should I go intake or exhaust? I don't like the idea of all that heat coming into my case...
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post #10864 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muntey View Post
Does it really make much of a difference? At the moment I am getting the same temps for push as I did with pull. I might change it around next time I go into my case, if it will actually make a difference.

Also, should I go intake or exhaust? I don't like the idea of all that heat coming into my case...
As long as your big fan in the top is exhaust then the air being put in to the case should exhaust right out.

And I noticed a difference not to much but a difference.
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post #10865 of 28303
Well TwwIX you might try looking up CPU Lapping on YouTube if you think that my way is wrong. Cause there's several people who have lapped their CPU that would disagree with you.

The idea is to get it flat. Shininess is just a secondary result. Anyone that Lapps just for the bling factor doesn't know what they are doing.

And I've seen windowless cases that look baddass with some Cats in them. Of course the owners eventually put windows in them but setting them up first can be good.

One question though? Why you gotta crap on my technique? For that matter why do you feel the need to say that it's wrong? It works and I see that it does.

I spent $20 for paper. I used maybe 2/3 of it on my CPU. If that. I got solid results. As a 35c-37c temp average on all 4 cores with the stock AMD cooler. I got nothin but time for something that helps my system run cooler. Right now I'm in the process of re-mounting my H50 to squeeze a few more C out of the temps.

I wasn't saying you're wrong only that going with a coarser grit can invite trouble for those that don't have any idea what they're doing.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwwIX View Post
Yes, you need to start off with coarser grit to actually smooth the base out and not just remove the nickel coating. There's dozens of lapping guides out there that will tell you the same.

3 grits, not 4. 400 then 600 OR 800 and finish it off with 1000.
Actually, anything above that is over kill and quite pointless since the nickel coating is completely gone by time you're finished with the 1000 grit.

"Ooh, a mirror finish!"

That's about useful as putting cathode lights and fancy tubing into a windowless case.
 
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified EK Thermosphere GPU Block EK Thermosphere GPU Block 
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post #10866 of 28303
Hold up here correct me if im wrong but isn't one of the jobs of thermal paste to fill in the rough surface of a cpu heatspreadder and HSF to allow for better heat transfer? So all the forums i've read about the matter of lapping to a mirror finish after flatness is achevied is worthless?

so twixx all these people are wrong in thinking that applying thermal paste to a smooth mirror finish could yeild better results then applying it to a rough surface

I also read many post saying it spreads better and takes less TIM to do the same job
post #10867 of 28303
less TIM the better, it is a substitute, it does not transfer heat as well as actual metal to metal contact.
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post #10868 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Well TwwIX you might try looking up CPU Lapping on YouTube if you think that my way is wrong. Cause there's several people who have lapped their CPU that would disagree with you.

The idea is to get it flat. Shininess is just a secondary result. Anyone that Lapps just for the bling factor doesn't know what they are doing.

And I've seen windowless cases that look baddass with some Cats in them. Of course the owners eventually put windows in them but setting them up first can be good.

One question though? Why you gotta crap on my technique? For that matter why do you feel the need to say that it's wrong? It works and I see that it does.

I spent $20 for paper. I used maybe 2/3 of it on my CPU. If that. I got solid results. As a 35c-37c temp average on all 4 cores with the stock AMD cooler. I got nothin but time for something that helps my system run cooler. Right now I'm in the process of re-mounting my H50 to squeeze a few more C out of the temps.

I wasn't saying you're wrong only that going with a coarser grit can invite trouble for those that don't have any idea what they're doing.

~Ceadder
CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....

The world is full of crap, (and crappers)

BTW, I too think 4 grits are a minimum for lapping from all I have read / seen with 600 grit starting maybe really maybe too rough for exposed copper HS plates. Copper is soft and I would be cautious removing too much too quickly as not all HS metals have the same % metals. I would want to think it better to start w/ 800 on any CPU.

I would tend to think the less viscous the TIM the operator is going to use on his lapped heat sink / CPU, the shinier the mating surfaces need to be......guess particle size of a specific TIM may relate to its ability to fill / not fill the micro imperfections on the 'flat' surfaces. Maybe that's why there's so much stock TIM on the H50 as the copper base plate is really kinda dull and HS spreaders on CPU's look kinda grainy??? A catch all application from Corsair??

Got a question fer ya and anyone else who cares to chime in - it'll be a bit down in the post (the question):

Just got to 3.0 GHz on my Q6700 (please do not laugh too hard) w/ a 10 multplier and CPU voltage at 1.200 V as reported by CPUZ ID using the ASUS AI tweaker.

My mombo is only rated up to 1200 FSB and I am there according to AI Tweaker and CPUZ ID. I am running at those settings now.

Ran 90 minutes of P95 large FFT's and passed on all 4 cores slammed to 100% the entire time and saw max load temps of 58-60C on all 4 cores
with stock cooling (stock CPU HS Fan at the moment 23C ambient)

Tried to push to 3.2 GHz as the next step and NO GO when the 4 P95 workers got busy........blank / reset .

My question is this: If I go into the BIOS and manually bump the CPU voltage to up the clock, will that also change my FSB frequency automatically?

I gets the sneaky feeling my Slug hardware may have reached it limit because of the mombo FSB limitation.

If that's the case, oh well, then my H50 will hopefully preserve the life of my Q6700 if it stays in the ASUS P5Q SE Plus.
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post #10869 of 28303
Who cares? Horses for courses... he doesn't like a mirror finish, some others like a mirror finish.
Let's leave it at that, otherwise this thread will end up in another flame fest that ruins the ability to provide decent information.
    
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post #10870 of 28303
Quick question. What temps should I be seeing while running Prime95?
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