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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1269

post #12681 of 28252
Hello all, I am a total newbie to water cooling. I have zero experience with it and I am seriously considering getting the Corsair H50 for my new set up. I'm just very leery because I am part of the what if it leaks club... I've read through this thread about 20 pages and no leaks so far but I'm also wondering if anyone has a good installation diagram. I went to corsairs website and theirs was okay but left me wanting. Specifically when to install the water into the cooler.
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post #12682 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santorican View Post
Hello all, I am a total newbie to water cooling. I have zero experience with it and I am seriously considering getting the Corsair H50 for my new set up. I'm just very leery because I am part of the what if it leaks club... I've read through this thread about 20 pages and no leaks so far but I'm also wondering if anyone has a good installation diagram. I went to corsairs website and theirs was okay but left me wanting. Specifically when to install the water into the cooler.
You don't install water into the system. The H50 is a completely closed system and comes with the coolant already in it. In regards to leaking, I wouldn't worry too much. It's a very uncommon problem.
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post #12683 of 28252
also in the very rare case that it does leak, Corsair warranties everything damaged by it... dont think you can go wrong there....
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post #12684 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by superhead91 View Post
You don't install water into the system. The H50 is a completely closed system and comes with the coolant already in it. In regards to leaking, I wouldn't worry too much. It's a very uncommon problem.
That is awesome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
also in the very rare case that it does leak, Corsair warranties everything damaged by it... dont think you can go wrong there....
Just in case do you know what their warranty process is like? That is a pretty sweet deal!
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post #12685 of 28252
Just thought I'd post some info that my father has told me about using fans with radiators. He designs systems for large trucks which obviously use fans for cooling their large radiators.

Hopefully it will help people thinking of their own cooling or give a little light reading lol

I have a H50 and have been messing around with cooling in my system.

From reading different forums about cooling, people seem to only be getting differences of 1 or 2 deg in push/ pull systems over the single fan. Also people are experimenting with shrouds with again maybe one or two degrees difference.

From what I understand from my father, a fan needs a certain volume of air to dissipate the heat from the radiator. Now this does not necessarily mean air forced through at a great speed.

If a fan pushes air too fast through a radiator it doesn't have enough time to take away the heat. With the trucks, what they do is work out the rads air volume needed, then they match the right fan to the rad. So sticking ultra kraze 3000 rpm fans will probs get to a point where more rpm doesn't have an effect. Just like our heating systems in UK houses that require you to slow the water speed enough so it has time to be heated. Opening the water valves means too much water is flowing too fast to be heated by the heating system. the same happens in reverse for cooling in our rad and fan systems.

Push/pull setups too would have to be using a push fan and a pull fan rather than just two identical fans. There is a difference in a push fan and a pull fan. So a fan in our systems set up as a pull fan may not have much effect on the rad at all, depending on the fans. So if we get a degree or too difference in our systems using identical fans, well that's as best as we can probs hope for.
I would imagine these pc fans are made to do both pull and push but as each is different they don't always perform the same. Two fans pushing and pulling may also not be in sync, causing air to behave strange maybe even raising temps too.

Using shrouds. Using a shroud with your fan to increase the area of the rad that gets air from the fan. ( As the centre of the fan behind the motor will be warmer) Its actually a little more complicated than sticking a shroud on the fan, the shape of the tip of the blades and the distance between the fan blade tip and its own shell actually makes a difference when using a shroud and when not. A duct is more efficient than just a spacing shroud. Again these have to be matched to the right shape shroud and the right distances between the fan tip and the fan case. You can go on for ever trying to come up with the right duct and fan combination, fan shape ask any R & D department in any major manufacturing plant.
So again the best we could hope for with a shroud on our setups is again 1 or 2 degrees. Even with a shroud the part in the middle of the rad will still not be as efficient as the outside edges. The further back from the rad the fan is set will give better results as the air has time to vortex more or less can't remember which and fill the space more. So maybe setting your fan a little back and have a small duct system rather than just a shroud, which are just usually a fan case, might give better results.

So from what I have seen in my own setup, trying push pull, intake, exhaust, the best thing would be to get your case taking in as much cool air as you can with out, annoying your neighbours, from what ever ambient temp room you have in your room and then have either one or two fans on your rad, exhausting air out of your case. Just have one or two fans on your rad that are not too fast and maybe not too loud. That's as probs as good a system setup you will have in your ambient room. Then enough cool air is blowing over the rad and has enough contact with the fan to dissipate heat.

I have only one graphics card in and even at idle in the bios, you can feel the heat pipes on the card, heat up a fair bit. So having SLI is going to make the heat your then pushing over your radiator and out your case a lot higher. So the question is is that heat lower or higher than pulling air in over your radiator and into your case and then heated by what ever graphics set up you have.

yes,I have had mine cooler intaking cool air from outside the window over the rad and my ambient temp was lower but only at idle. I'm sure when it's on full load the temp inside the case will rise somewhat. With my setup my fans on full don't make any difference from about 50-70% so it means the rad is saturated and the volume of cool air is not enough or going too fast through the rad. Also the motor heat will be adding a little too.

I found my second fan pulling air out of the case and radiator, didn't have any impact on the temp. In fact you could tell from the sound of the fan it wasn't having any resistance from anything, such as air pulled through a radiator behind it. This possibly means that it isn't pulling air very effectively but is pushing air well.

I hope this is helpful, I just found it interesting messing with my own system to see how little things change, in temps. today it's warmer outside and inside so my temps are a few deg warmer and all fan positions seem to have the same temps, even at full fan speed i cant get the temps that I had yesterday and they are not that higher really. Cooling is a bit like bridge building there isn't really a correct way of doing things especially in our cheap manufactured products we seem to be getting now. Every part of the PC I have just built, that was made in a certain developing nation, has been sent back faulty. It's about time our corporations stopped using cheap labour and cheap parts. That's another rant though.

enough
post #12686 of 28252
^ Thanks for that info (+ first rep for you ). I've always thought the same thing about the fan speed and whether or not there was enough time when it passes through the rad to cool it down. So theoretically, using higher RPM fans doesn't always necessary mean that you'll get better temps.

I've been meaning to experiment with different types of fans (not only ones with lower RPM but also mix and match different RPM fans for push/pull setup) and also I might get that CoolIT with 240 rad for my other rig just to compare the two (right now I'm using the H70 on this rig).



Edit: where are my manners.. this was your first post (and what a great post) so welcome to OCN.
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post #12687 of 28252
Good long post...

I think most people who have followed this thread for a little bit know that RPM's and air flow is not as important as the pressure... you can have a 200 CFM fan that has no pressure levels and would be crap on a radiator.

I do not agree with the Airflow being to much... having worked on cars I know the fluid transfer to the radiator needs to maintain a good speed to exhange as much heat as possible, but I think that ends there. what I know about thermal dynamics is...

*pulls thermaldynamics book out and relizes its to much work to put the questions in a text box*

due to the larger surface area and fin density more air flow will and can potentialy drop the temp to that of ambiant. For an air cooler when it gets hotter you increase the fan speed and the temp drops. this will not be the case when you get up to speed of light type speeds.

The engine cooling systems that your dad does for large trucks is a little different. Engines are designed to run optimally at a given temp (for cars usualy between 195 to 210, not sure on large trucks) below that they run rich and not optimaly.

for a CPU i dont think there is any min temp that should be maintained.

just my thoughts after reading.
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post #12688 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
I do not agree with the Airflow being to much... having worked on cars I know the fluid transfer to the radiator needs to maintain a good speed to exhange as much heat as possible, but I think that ends there.
+1 Also in cars you have a thermostat so the water is not continually flowing.
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post #12689 of 28252
I really want to love my H50 but when my system arrived it was way too hot after a few simple adjustments. i took off the H50 reseated it and there was no change. i had some pos 1300rpm fan on the H50 instead of a corsair fan so i ordered a set of Scythe Slipstream SY1225SL12SH's which will show up tomorrow. I am really just hoping the heat was because the fan on my H50 was a pos, and that with my push pull set up i will be seeing some great temps, because i swear if i ever see 85c on load again i will slap this thing with a giant pickle.
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post #12690 of 28252
SolarisPrime. Most of what you’ve said is true but there is one fundamental flaw that goes against the law of thermodynamics. (Caution nerdy stuff ahead!) To put it simply, the greater the temperature between two states the faster the temperature will flow between them (for all you thermodynamics guys….I know ….I’m trying to keep it simple here). Think of how fast a flower freezes when placed in liquid nitrogen. The correlation for temperature difference is a direct one (i.e. picture a straight line graph). The correlation between air flow at a set temperature and cooling of the radiator is not as simple. The correlation is a curved graph which means you eventually get to a point of diminishing returns (that’s also why ambient temperature has such a direct effect on radiator cooling). The reason for this is because fast moving air touches the fins for less time before being pushed away by more air. This means it doesn’t get to sit on the fins as long and get progressively hotter and therefore less efficient at transferring the heat like slow moving air would. The reason for the curve in the graph is because the radiator fins are also cooling down and the temperature difference lessens. That’s also why a higher liquid flow through the radiator is better because it keeps the fins hotter. Of course then you get into the heat of the CPU, cold plate ability etc etc. So let’s not go there. Suffice it to say that if I were to place dual 250 CFM delta fans in push pull on my H50 I would see much lower temps than say dual 50 to 60 CFM Scythe S-Flex fans but the noise will certainly not be worth it IMHO. But you might say “Garanthor what about if you pushed through say 5000 cfm though that radiator?†Well even if the fins could take it, now you’re getting into issues of air compression around the fins (which increases air temperature…in fact it could increase it to the point that you’d be actually heating the radiator rather than cooling it…extreme I know) and low and high pressure areas or possible micro vacuums (think of how a planes wing works) would form which of course would not help to efficiently transfer heat. So is a 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze fan worth it?...that depends. It will certainly cool better (higher CFM and higher static pressure) but will also make more noise and draw more amps. Other options could be increasing flow rate, increasing cooling surface area (i.e. think H 70), improving contact area between CPU and cooling plate and so on. Hope that helps a bit.
    
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