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post #15671 of 28303
Im about to install, what way should the rad be facing? Tubes top or bottom?
    
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post #15672 of 28303
This is why i don't like the H50. The base of the H70 is so much better cuz of the way it's designed. I think there is too much weight on the back of the H50 causing it not to even contact the cpu.

I had problems with the H50 in the past because i think it's simply because if you are messing around inside your case like cleaning for example. DO NOT touch the cpu block.. cuz if you touch it, you will likely move it.. it's so big and i did and i saw temp changes long time ago and it smeared the thermal. So i had to re-apply.

But today i run H70 at first install quite awhile ago.. i got this before Dec started anyways and it runs like a breeze at first install cuz i made sure i held the cpu water block DOWN while screwing so i screw the screws X shaped so it evens up.
post #15673 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmartinez06 View Post
Im about to install, what way should the rad be facing? Tubes top or bottom?
It really doesn't matter which way as long you can install it but then again i have been told it's better on the bottom so the pump doesn't have to work harder if they were facing up the sky.
post #15674 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZero View Post
So I just tried another reseat just now after reading some new material. I'm aware that when a heatsink base an IHS have excellent contact with each other, a suction is formed wherein it requires some amount of force to separate the two.

When you unscrew the retention bracket of your H50, does the pump immediately start moving around due to the tension from the tubes? Or does it stay stuck to the IHS? Mine started moving around right away, which I take isn't a good sign.

Tried pushing the pump down manually and THEN screwing in the retention bracket. Temps are pretty much the same (1c drop or so?)

Now, manually grabbing both the CPU and pump and pressing them together with the used TIM layer makes the CPU stick firmly to the base. I can let go of it and it'll stay there. I don't see the same effect when it's fully installed, however.

When you install your H50, does the CPU fit into the highlighted section? I noticed the notches on the retention bracket don't allow for that, and it's always skewed one way or another, and one or two screw holes always come in contact with my IHS. Is this normal?


I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with the H50 or the way your mounting it. I think its your high ambient temps and the use of HT that are causing your high load temps. There is a certain point/clock when oc'ing where heat will start to rise quickly the farther you push it. Maybe you just hit that point at 4GHz. Have you run any stress test at a lower clock speed? I know on my chip just going from 4GHz to 4.33GHz it made my load temps rise 8C even with my low vcore.
Edited by DJ4g63t - 12/28/10 at 11:26am
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post #15675 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ4g63t View Post
I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with the H50 or the way your mounting it. I think its your high ambient temps and the use of HT that are causing your high load temps. There is a certain point/clock when oc'ing where heat will start to rise quickly the farther you push it. Maybe you just hit that point at 4GHz. Have you run any stress test at a lower clock speed? I know on my chip just going from 4GHz to 4.33GHz it made my load temps rise 8C even with my low vcore.
Actually, I managed to do some things just now that got my temps nice and cool.

First, I switched my H50 to do push/pull intake from the rear instead of exhaust. The sheer length of the 5970 actually creates two spaces of air inside the case instead of just one, so it doesn't heat up any more than it did.

Second, the fan filters I was using (air conditioning filters) did keep dust out, but the airflow wasn't as good as I had hoped once the dust started to collect. So I left the H50 without a filter (for now), and it gets a blast of room air.

Third, I noticed my retention bracket was ever so slightly bent.
Applied a bit of force to straighten it out, and that seems to have helped. I noticed my TIM wasn't spreading like I expected before this.

Now at 4ghz HT on, 1.2825v, I get idles of 45-50, and it takes nearly an hour or so of Prime95 to get it to 80c, which used to take just a second. I'd say that's a huge improvement considering my ambients.
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post #15676 of 28303
Isn't 80c a little too much?
post #15677 of 28303
Maybe not if he has high ambient temps and high humidity. After "nearly an hour"..t'was said.
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post #15678 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZero View Post
Thanks for the cover. I did answer a lot of those questions already.

By "immediately" on the temps, I do mean within the first 1-2 seconds after starting Prime95 Small FFT's.

Anyway, things I want to try:

1. Change my airflow (intake from the rear as well).

My problem with this is that my GPU exhausts hot air out the back. Wouldn't the fans then suck that hot air back into the system? Front intake didn't work as well as I'd hoped for me, not to mention it stretched my tubes a lot. But this could be different. Top/side exhaust, front/back intake.

2. Add a shroud/shrouds.

I only have one expendable fan for gutting, so one shroud on the push fan will have to do for now. I realize San Ace 1011's have a huge center, meaning a big dead spot. Maybe this will help more than I think it will?

3. Lap the H50.

I've lapped a TRUE Black and Q6600 previously, but I'm worried about this since my H50 is still under warranty. Unlike for heatsinks, for a closed loop like this, that could come in handy in case of a leak (read the Corsair forums lately?)

I don't really want to turn HT off since I really find it helps noticeably with my minimum FPS. And I do encode a lot of videos. I never did have stellar temps even with my lapped Q6600/TRUE Black. I hope either of the above solutions will help.

Any other suggestions guys?
1. no , thats the least of your worries .

2.yes , Shrouds are good ..they quiet down the noise and also direct the airflow much easier ..Like a tunnel

3.yes , lap your h50 nothing will go wrong . Just give it a light sand to smoothen the surface . I reccomend lapping your cpu also . You will never see any really good results until you do so . People might say its risky but its really easy and aslong as ur careful u wont damage anything guarenteed , i think infact this is one of the best things to do to your cpu for watercooling along with good thermal paste ur temps will drop 100%

at first i didnt really read your post thourougly , i jst saw u had bad temps and went on with the questions .
Edited by Xristo - 12/28/10 at 3:39pm
    
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post #15679 of 28303

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post #15680 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZero View Post
Actually, I managed to do some things just now that got my temps nice and cool.

First, I switched my H50 to do push/pull intake from the rear instead of exhaust. The sheer length of the 5970 actually creates two spaces of air inside the case instead of just one, so it doesn't heat up any more than it did.

Second, the fan filters I was using (air conditioning filters) did keep dust out, but the airflow wasn't as good as I had hoped once the dust started to collect. So I left the H50 without a filter (for now), and it gets a blast of room air.

Third, I noticed my retention bracket was ever so slightly bent.
Applied a bit of force to straighten it out, and that seems to have helped. I noticed my TIM wasn't spreading like I expected before this.

Now at 4ghz HT on, 1.2825v, I get idles of 45-50, and it takes nearly an hour or so of Prime95 to get it to 80c, which used to take just a second. I'd say that's a huge improvement considering my ambients.
You said u pushed on the pump and it made no difference ? that pump needs to be tight up against that cpu to transfer heat from it to your h50.
    
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