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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1694

post #16931 of 28344
I've got pics on my build log showing the inside of the H50 if anyone wanted to know how their's works... Mine stopped pumping water so I took it apart to fix it. It's working now!
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post #16932 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by OolerTheInventor View Post
I've got pics on my build log showing the inside of the H50 if anyone wanted to know how their's works... Mine stopped pumping water so I took it apart to fix it. It's working now!
Show eet, show eeeeeet!

Pics or eet deedn't appen.

~Ceadder
 
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post #16933 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Show eet, show eeeeeet!

Pics or eet deedn't appen.

~Ceadder
How about a teaser?



more in the build log
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post #16934 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
MG!

I NEVER SAID THAT IT DID. I WAS SAYING THAT HE SHOULD BE AWARE! I ALSO GAVE CREDIBLE FACTS TO SUPPORT MY STANCE. I ALSO STATED THAT I WOULDN'T RUN IT THAT WAY FOR THOSE VERY REASONS.

Holy mother of jesus!

~Ceadder
OK, you're right. Nothing wrong with being careful. All I said is he did what he should have done when plugging the pump into the CPU header. As long as he keeps an eye on it, it doesn't matter which header he uses.

Note that newer boards can control 3 pin fans from any header, so on a newer board the same thing may apply no matter what connector you plug it into. The safest thing is to check BIOS and make sure it's set to max, and as you mentioned, watch out for accidental BIOS resets.
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post #16935 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by OolerTheInventor View Post
How about a teaser?
*snipped*
more in the build log
Unfortunately all your pics bog my connection down in your Blogdification thread. I couldn't even get past the 1st page. lulz

I'm assuming the bottom hole on the left is the outlet and the upper is the inlet. Kind of odd since the lower one has an inner collar and the upper one has an (assuming the last part since only one pic ) outer collar.

@mergatroid... all good bro. I've since simmered down.

~Ceadder
 
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post #16936 of 28344
Well, I was working on my case this week and after looking at my temps when I did the exhaust/intake comparison I decided to reverse my fans to exhaust.

I decided the one or two degrees increase in CPU temperature was worth the decrease I was getting in my chipset temps. I did a little rewiring and replaced the Zalman ZM-MFC3 fan controller I was using with a AeroCool Strike X fan controller.

Why? OK OK, I admit it. I like the way it looks. It controls 5 fans, it's touch controlled, and it looks sweeeet. I do find myself missing the wattage meter from the MFC3 but I'll get used to it.

So, now I have two intake fans (200mm and 120mm), 2 rear exhaust fans (120mm) and the push/pull H70 also exhaust.

Currently all the 120mm fans are set to 1000 RPM, the 200mm fan is at 600RMP and the 2 x 120mm Scythe PWM H70 fans are running at 1218 RPM as set by the motherboard.

This is normally what I run the fans at when just web surfing. It's pretty quiet but gets good air flow. My CPU is running 41c at basically idle. Ambient is 21c. I can get cooler temps if I remove it from my desk. I'll have to do some torturing again this weekend (bwahahaha).

Sorry, I just had to post a couple more pics. It tastes so good.....

1: Latest Internals, 2: Latest lighting, 3: Old fan controller, 4: New fan controller, 5: Aero controller in the dark.




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post #16937 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by OolerTheInventor View Post
How about a teaser?



more in the build log
Is that what it REALLY looks like inside the H70? Cool.
post #16938 of 28344
@thrasherht

I changed the MoBo in my build to the ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). It seems to have all of the features I'm looking for in a MoBo. Out of curiosity, why do you recommend only those two brands? I'm pretty new to making 'serious' machines and am always looking to learn something new. Thanks again for your help.

@Ceadderman

Thank you for confirming the information about the P67 North Bridge. I was able to find an ASUS board that stated it supported SATA 3 RAID0. As far as the fans go, I intend to get as much life out of this rig as I can before I have to buy a new one so I figure that I'll end up overclocking it eventually. I'm pretty sure that having a fan controller in the build will enable me to keep the machine quiet when I'm just web browsing or whatever. When I'm gaming with my headset on I don't mind having them running full blast.

One other thing that I forgot to ask about. Regarding lapping the CPU, does that really make a huge difference? Aside from voiding the warranty, are there any drawbacks to lapping it?
Edited by liquidmetal17 - 3/24/11 at 3:06pm
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post #16939 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78@pwnt4lif3 View Post
Is that what it REALLY looks like inside the H70? Cool.
It's the H50.
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post #16940 of 28344
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidmetal17 View Post
@thrasherht

I changed the MoBo in my build to the ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). It seems to have all of the features I'm looking for in a MoBo. Out of curiosity, why do you recommend only those two brands? I'm pretty new to making 'serious' machines and am always looking to learn something new. Thanks again for your help.

@Ceadderman

Thank you for confirming the information about the P67 North Bridge. I was able to find an ASUS board that stated it supported SATA 3 RAID0. As far as the fans go, I intend to get as much life out of this rig as I can before I have to buy a new one so I figure that I'll end up overclocking it eventually. I'm pretty sure that having a fan controller in the build will enable me to keep the machine quiet when I'm just web browsing or whatever. When I'm gaming with my headset on I don't mind having them running full blast.

One other thing that I forgot to ask about. Regarding lapping the CPU, does that really make a huge difference? Aside from voiding the warranty, are there any drawbacks to lapping it?
The other drawback is going into it thinking you've got to take it all down to Copper. The point of lapping is to get the CPU as flat as possible so that the Thermal Interface Material(TIM) gets the best spread and as thin as possible without allowing contact between the two surfaces. There is no need to take it all the way down to Copper since that could possibly expose too much of the CPU and should your cooling surface make contact with it that's all she wrote. That CPU will be toast.

The way to find out if your CPU needs to be lapped, is to take the straightest edge you can and lay it on the surface of the CPU. Most NotB chips will have a dome in the middle and Rises on the sides. You just look at your CPU with the straight edge on it to see if you see daylight under it. Some chips won't have alot of that and won't need to be lapped as doing so wouldn't make a significant difference in cooling.

Was gonna add some pics but my stupid photobucket isn't cooperating.

~Ceadder
 
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