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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 171

post #1701 of 28251
@cyclometric: how is that shroud doing? I'm interested to know if you've tried it on the other side. Research just keeps confusing me but I think you have it the most efficient way around.

@Pings: We are probably the biggest club in the whole cooling section, but I cant be bothered to count all their members. We certainly have one of the most active discussion groups!

@SpykeZ: Good purchase And some nice fans you've got ready. You should look into making a shroud to get the most out of them.

@Scart: Added, as Pings said - exhaust would be best in your case, my old setup was exhaust in an Antec 902 and the temps were great. Try to move one of the front intakes to the top 3 bays so that you get direct cool air to the rad and upper motherboard.
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post #1702 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
Keep a close eye on this thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

Hopefull his results will be up soon and we can see the best arrangement for 2fans+1shroud. I believe that a shroud on the push side is better than on the pull side, though I'm not sure about this.
Maybe. But I had killer results with the shroud on the pull side. But a lot of this depends on the fans your using of course.
post #1703 of 28251
I think I'll use 2 shrouds in my own setup since they should fit. Along with some 38mm fans of some description.
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post #1704 of 28251
It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys, if you look at any shroud, they are always 38mm or deeper, 25mm not deep enough to make the difference worth it.If you really want the hot setup, then go with a cooler master atcs 840 aluminum case.they are wider then most cases, especially at the back by the 120mm fan, which will allow you to mount the corsair RAD sideways, instead of the hoses at top or bottom, then turn your pump sideways as well........ you'll see what I mean, this is what i'm going to do, dumping my antec 300 case for this
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post #1705 of 28251

Finaly got all the kit.



The Kit all layed out ready.



Leak testing with the Res's stock barbs.



Before the UV dye went in.



After the Dye.

A poor video of adding the Dye,


As you can see the bottow pipe coming off the Res is a little long so i will be re-routing it and cutting it down abit.

Better photo's tomorrow, more Dye and adding the Ultra Kaze 3000 back as a push.

What do you guys think?
post #1706 of 28251
Awesome work Willhemmens!! +

I'm going to permalink this on the front page - fantastic job!
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post #1707 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
Awesome work Willhemmens!! +

I'm going to permalink this on the front page - fantastic job!
Thanks bro, will be doing more tomorrow.
post #1708 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccomputertek View Post
It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys, if you look at any shroud, they are always 38mm or deeper, 25mm not deep enough to make the difference worth it.If you really want the hot setup, then go with a cooler master atcs 840 aluminum case.they are wider then most cases, especially at the back by the 120mm fan, which will allow you to mount the corsair RAD sideways, instead of the hoses at top or bottom, then turn your pump sideways as well........ you'll see what I mean, this is what i'm going to do, dumping my antec 300 case for this
25mm works just fine for me. I've used ATCS cases in the past. There nice cases. But my P180 works just fine for me. And my cooling (moded) rivals any case out there. Good luck, I hope your happy with your new set up.
post #1709 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
@cyclometric: how is that shroud doing? I'm interested to know if you've tried it on the other side. Research just keeps confusing me but I think you have it the most efficient way around.

I believe the shroud is doing well, thanks. Though more upgrades planned:
  • Installing shroud on Pull side, just bought one on clearance super cheap* and then,
    Leak proofing the shroud & fan on the push (and pull sides, when it arrives), with elect tape, I am thinking right now
  • Installing kink coils (who am I kidding? that's just for fun)
  • Reseating with ICD7 eventually
  • Upgrading fans to Scythe S-Flex-G or, better
Would love LED fans that I could swap in UV bulbs for but seems hard to find good static pressure fans that have LEDs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccomputertek View Post
It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys
I guess I am just a silly billy, then, but silly stuff like this keeps a geek like me going. I am at Overclock.net, right? How do you expect me to spend time . . . socializing? Hehe. I am having fun. Will be nice if I can show some #'s to back up all the effort. Since I didn't run any methodical testing with each configuration, (exhaust/intake/shroud(ed/less)) I will do so now. I'll run 30 minutes OCCT large data set & report results, if anyone's interested (separate thread or not?)

& thanks for the welcome Killhouse; s'good to be here


*From Sidewinder.com: it's on clearance right now, great deal!
Edited by cyclometric - 1/12/10 at 11:20am
post #1710 of 28251
Pretty good stuff, Willhemmens!!

Whats the tubbing size u used. I know u mention somewhere before, but I am just lazy to look for it.

EDIT: Found it. 8 - 10
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