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post #17041 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by luchog View Post
Sounds like there may be a few issues. First, the temps may simply not be reporting correctly. Intel i7 CPUs have issues that way. There are threads in the Intel CPU forum that offer more info on that.

Assuming that the temps are reporting reasonably accurately, you just may not be seated cleanly, since you shouldn't be getting idle temps that high even with a stock config.

Some things you can do to reduce temps:
Lap the contact surface. The Corsair coolers have very rough and substantially concave contact surfaces. You should see a substantial drop after flattening and smoothing it out. There's more info on that earlier in this thread.

Add an additional fan, so that you're running a push-pull configuration. Adding a shroud to spread the airflow and eliminate hot-spots will also help.

Upgrade the fans. Moving to a higher-SP, higher-CFM fan like the Akasa Vipers or Coolermaster BladeMaster fans will help push more air through the rad.

The TIM you are using is good, but make sure you're not using too much. It's easy to overdo it.

Check your external air, make sure your ambient temps near the rad intake are low, and that you have good air circulation. If your computer is in a place where airflow is restricted, it may be pulling warm exhaust air back in.
Thanks a lot for the info, i will get right onto this thing and see whats causing the issue, at least now i know were/what to look for
post #17042 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654 View Post
Hmm that comb thing looks really cool. You'd add it to your rad fans?
Don't waste your money on it. Hacking up the stock fan and using the housing as a fan shroud will get what you need working to work. The dead spot(the area directly in front of the hub) will be moved off the rad and allow more flow over the vanes. Also with it being in between the Push fan and the Rad no flow gets waste since no flow can escape and go out in all directions like that.

If you're gonna get the silicon silencers just get standard 120s'. Don't waste your money on something that won't get you any temp decreases.

~Ceadder
 
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post #17043 of 28247
Well I tried out my new thermal paste, MX-5.

The first two tests I have, I did them with LinX and they might also be not very good because I did reseat my H50 before these tests and most likely messed up the thermal paste (shin etsu I think?). I am also using 2 Blademasters at full speed (2000rpm) (they will soon be replaced with 1500rpm Yate Loons)

The overclock is:
955 BE @3.8Ghz @1.425v
2600Mhz NB @1.200v
8Gbs Ripsaws 9-9-9-24-1t @1600mhz

Exhaust with stock paste at full load:

29c - System
54c - NB
60c - CPU
58.4c - Core

Intake with stock paste at full load:
28c - System
53c - NB
55c - CPU
57.0c - Core

Not a bad decrease by making the fans take air into the case. But also I did reseat the H50 so the stock paste could be not working well. Also when I removed the stock paste it appeared really dried out and crusty, not sure if that's normal or not, I am not a thermal paste pro .

Intake with MX-5 at full load:
28c - System
48c - NB
52c - CPU
52.5c - Core

Well I am satisfied with what the MX-5 did for me, oddly enough I had put about a pea size amount on the cpu, it wasn't spreading really well.

Just figure I'd post this since it involves using different paste for an H50.
post #17044 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654 View Post
Well I tried out my new thermal paste, MX-5.

The first two tests I have, I did them with LinX and they might also be not very good because I did reseat my H50 before these tests and most likely messed up the thermal paste (shin etsu I think?). I am also using 2 Blademasters at full speed (2000rpm) (they will soon be replaced with 1500rpm Yate Loons)

The overclock is:
955 BE @3.8Ghz @1.425v
2600Mhz NB @1.200v
8Gbs Ripsaws 9-9-9-24-1t @1600mhz

Exhaust with stock paste at full load:

29c - System
54c - NB
60c - CPU
58.4c - Core

Intake with stock paste at full load:
28c - System
53c - NB
55c - CPU
57.0c - Core

Not a bad decrease by making the fans take air into the case. But also I did reseat the H50 so the stock paste could be not working well. Also when I removed the stock paste it appeared really dried out and crusty, not sure if that's normal or not, I am not a thermal paste pro .

Intake with MX-5 at full load:
28c - System
48c - NB
52c - CPU
52.5c - Core

Well I am satisfied with what the MX-5 did for me, oddly enough I had put about a pea size amount on the cpu, it wasn't spreading really well.

Just figure I'd post this since it involves using different paste for an H50.
I don't believe that is normal could be your seat wasn't secure enough. Cause I use the stuff all the time and when I pull the H50 it's still moist when I look at it. I'm not sure what happened there.

You asked about lapping tutorials? That one you posted is how I learned. I was a bit annoyed that it wasn't longer(start to finish) but I saw how it was done and that's all that really matters. You can get those grits from most any Napa Automotive. I couldn't get it from my local but I could get it in the next bustling burg that I always go to anyway cost was about $20 for three different grits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ubeermench View Post
Rainmeter

I forget what skin im using
Dude I don't know how to break it to ya but that's not Rainmeter. Not unless Drives and CPU processes were added to their inventory.

That's what I'm lookin at anyway. I like my guages but they don't give me drive info and I'd like to know what all 4 cores are doing instead of first core only.

~Ceadder
 
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post #17045 of 28247
I'm still debating if I should do the lapping or not, I was reading some threads about people having worse contact and the heatsink and cpu not touching.

Edit: I was going to lap both the cpu and H50
post #17046 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654 View Post
I'm still debating if I should do the lapping or not, I was reading some threads about people having worse contact and the heatsink and cpu not touching.

Edit: I was going to lap both the cpu and H50
They aren't supposed to touch. If that was their aim then Epic Failure on their part. Lapping is only to allow the TIM to get better coverage between both surfaces to allow for better cooling. That's it. There is no other benefit to lapping.

Also those people complaining(just speculating here) may not have used a completely flat surface, may not have left the CPU on the paper(skipping, rocking it as they did their lapp), or may have used low grade paper or grits.

Any number of things could cause a bad lapp. The CPU is not the issue it's the CPU lapper. I would guarantee that to 95% accuracy even. I was a complete n00b when I did my lapp. But I've got shop experience going back to when I wore short pants in Gramps shop. I can tell you from that experience that there is a right way and a wrong way to do everything. I took the time to educate myself before jumping in. You're going the right way about it. And it's good to have a little apprehension.

Before you start just make sure where your CPU is at as far as flatness. I was lucky mine didn't have to go very far before the surface flattened out. You'll need the straightest edge you can find(carpet knife refill blades are great for this) to check how much daylight you can see under it. Giving you an idea how much of a dome you're looking to rid yourself of. Get the right grits of quality paper(I used 1600, 1800 and 2000) and use a glass surface to work on. If you can't find one at home you can get one from a Home Depot or Lowe's that you would use on one of those circular night tables. They're relatively cheap and you can rinse it off when you're done and then store it in a closet for the next time.

Just make sure to take your time. There is no reason to hurry through the process, even if your arm feels tired. Take a break if you're not up to doing the whole task in one sitting. Nothing wrong with that. I did. I started fairly late in the evening and felt really tired a few hours later. I wrote down what pass I was on and what count I left off at and secured the CPU at the beginning of that pass so I could pick right up where I left off. Then I hit the sack and started back in, bright eyed an bushy tailed, the next morning.

~Ceadder
 
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post #17047 of 28247
Thanks for the input! I think I might give it a go this weekend. Would doing just the CPU be sufficient? or should I do the H50 plate as well?
post #17048 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654 View Post
Thanks for the input! I think I might give it a go this weekend. Would doing just the CPU be sufficient? or should I do the H50 plate as well?
Should do both. The H50 will be a bit of a chore. Don't spin the hoses too much. I used a two hand approach. One on the pump and the other on the hoses and closest to the Rad as I could get them. Take it nice and slow as the pump will tend to skip if you go too fast. I did it in figure 8 pattern turning it a degree after every 10 strokes. Turning a quarter turn every 10 doesn't give the paper enough time to do tha job imho.

Unfortunately I didn't think to capture the moment and there are no H50 lapps on YouTube that I am aware of.

~Ceadder
 
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post #17049 of 28247
Is it wrong that all sounded sexy to me.
post #17050 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654 View Post
Is it wrong that all sounded sexy to me.
whatever gets ya through the day brutha.



~Ceadder
 
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ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
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