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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1710

post #17091 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booty Warrior;12928547 
So when do we H60 people get to join the club?!

We're like family!

Just add yourself.

They should change the name of the thread to the Hydro Series Club.
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post #17092 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTDOGS;12935092 
Dang well they're the same as yates but quieter redface.gif

I used Scythe PWM fans. They push 120 cfm at full speed, and with a PWM splitter the motherboard can control the RPM of both fans giving you a nice quiet system at low loads.

On another note, I have finished my build. I may add an LED chaser later and I was reading what Ceaddarman and Alancsalt had to say about shrouds, so I think I may add one on the push side of my H70 eventually, but for now this is it:
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post #17093 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Famousoverdose;12936723 
So your push/pull config is exhausting instead of the bring air into the case? If so, what are your temps like doing that?

Whoops I should have been more clear. Right now my setup is intake and I am getting 28c core temp idle and 53c core temp full load.

The reason I said exhaust was because I have a HAF 932 case and I was gonna give it a try as exhaust on the top fan slot next to the big 200mm fan. Right now the internal air flow is all screwy since the back exhaust fan is now the H50 as intake.
post #17094 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654;12937350 
Whoops I should have been more clear. Right now my setup is intake and I am getting 28c core temp idle and 53c core temp full load.

The reason I said exhaust was because I have a HAF 932 case and I was gonna give it a try as exhaust on the top fan slot next to the big 200mm fan. Right now the internal air flow is all screwy since the back exhaust fan is now the H50 as intake.
You want it intaking cool air from outside your case though. Is the 200mm exhaust?
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post #17095 of 28251
yes the 200mm is exhaust. I literally have no where to put a 120mm intake fan without totally screwing up the air flow. I mean the bottom slot next to the PSU is intake but the H50s tubes would be dangerously close the 2 460's video cards.
post #17096 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654;12928028 
It's times like this where I want to try the stock corsair fan and remove my 2 blademasters frown.gif

Don't worry, your Yate Loons will be there soon enough. wink.gif

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post #17097 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabby654;12936594 
I'd still like to use the 2 yates I purchased for my H50, but a couple of questions:

1. If I were to shroud the H50 (it is exhaust in this setup) would it be on the push or the pull fan?

2. Is there a guide to chop up the corsair fan to make a shroud? Thought I saw one but I cant seem to find it.

Shroud on push.
Just cut out the internals and smooth.

In anticipation of "how do I fasten shroud and fan/where do I get longer screws?"

Solutions to 6-32 screw problem:

http://www.overclock.net/11766461-post15596.html my fix 4 me

http://www.overclock.net/11768920-post15600.html DJ4g63t's fix
Use the fastening part off another zip tie.

http://www.overclock.net/11766844-post15597.html Mothman's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11769774-post15605.html Explanatory pic of Mothman's fix.
Edited by alancsalt - 3/30/11 at 5:22pm
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post #17098 of 28251
Hey guys,

I've got a Ggigabyte p67 ud4 arriving tomorrow. From what I can dsicern, the H70's backplate will sort of cover up a few of the solder points on the board. I was wondering if this would be a problem?

Mainly, can I still use the foam double sided tape that comes with the H70 kit? I'd imagine the tape/glue isn't conductive, but I'm a little worried about putting that on my new board hehe.

I know the H70 can be installed without the tape, but it sure seems like a royal PITA to do so (basically, I'd prefer to be able to use the tape if I...could...sorta know that the tape wasn't going to somehow short out the board or cause problems down the road.)

Thanks a million guys. I use this board *ALL THE TIME* for general info and overclocking guides, although this is my first post.

Thanks.

EDIT TO ADD: Posted a similar query on Corsair's forum, the tech support guy said it would be fine. Gotta admit, I'm still a bit freaked out about taping on top of the solder points...but...well...I guess I'm not sure what I'm going to do haha
Edited by lazu - 3/30/11 at 5:35pm
    
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post #17099 of 28251
So should I double up on GTs for a push pull setup like this? Or should I just do a single GT, a single blade master or the OG corsair fan push OR pull? How does the stock stack up against the blademaster, since it is about the same as a GT just noisier.

cmplan.jpg

I don't want to make a shroud to be honest. I think that I should be good with just one push like stated earlier.
Edited by HOTDOGS - 3/30/11 at 5:47pm
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post #17100 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented;12928174 
Hey guys...my Sandy Bridge parts are coming in today, and I'll be rebuilding my rig, so I wanted to ask a few questions that while I know are probably in this thread anyways, but would take forever to actually pinpoint.

I'm using MX-2 as my compound, and wanted to know what is the best method for applying it, as well as how much I should use. I've gotten prett good temps on my Q9550 (idle low 30's, load high 50's to low 60's), but since my 2500K is newer, I want to make sure I do the best job first!

Then, regarding my H50. I currently have it set to intake is in my sig. Since I'll be getting a second 5870 for Crossfire, and my case has no side panel fans for intake, I still think having the H50 as intake is the best plan. I think if I set it to exhaust, that the excess heat from the GPU's is what will be pulled into the H50's rad, and thus create warmer temps. If people have experience with a similar set up, please speak up about this. smile.gif

Another thing, is I currently have my rad with the tubes on the bottom. I believe I have it this way since it seems to put too much strain/twist on the tubes if I flip it, but since I'm tearing apart my rig, I will be able to try it again. Or should I just leave it that way?

Thanks a lot for reading. I'm very excited about my Sandy Bridge, and I just want to prepare as much as possible so that the build goes nice and smooth, and I can fully enjoy my new rig!

Best TIM is Shin-Etsu G751, but if you're stuck with MX-2 the best method is probably dropping a Pea size amount into the middle of the CPU and letting the Pump squeeze it into place. The coverage should be perfectly fine. I did this with my TIM and typically average 31-35c at Idle to minor use. I never go over 40c at full load for what I'm doing though. Mostly gaming and watching movies. I'm pretty sure that I would if I were Folding or if I were running nonstop Benchies. Of course I'm not running OC'ed right now either.wink.gif

Just leave your tubes at the bottom. Less chance for any air in the system to build up with it that way. As far as Intake/Exhaust you may have to play around with it a bit. I doubt the 5870 is going to affect much because I have a 5770 and the only temp it seems to affect the most in my system is the NB temp. Though I imagine that my NB temp would go up running nothing but a Hamster training on his wheel.cool.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
 
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HAF 932 Logitech g9x COOLER MASTER Weapon of Choice: M4 Duramesh Pad Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers 
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Sunbeam Rheosmart 3 Creative X-Fi 
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