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post #17131 of 28303
Sorry double post.
Edited by stimr2 - 3/31/11 at 8:47pm
    
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post #17132 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Why drill holes into them when you can use Zips to secure them in the bays?

~Ceadder
Actually I was referring to crabby654, didn't he have the HAF case? Also, the holes would get drilled into the gutted fan casing/shroud, not the PP fans. So there's no loss by drilling. I thought if he really wants to set up his H50 as intake, and he doesn't want to change the rear fan position to intake, and the bottom 120mm fan mount is too far away, the next best solution is the drive bays. Of course, he would have to use up 3 of them (something I personally wouldn't be willing to do), but other people have done it and it looked pretty nice. If I did it on my 600T I would have to remove my nice fan controller and the LED control mod I did at the front.

IMHO, I would never use zip ties except in such a case as I could not think up a better mounting solution. Zip ties are so temporary, and while that may be exactly what some people are looking for, I prefer permanent solutions. I understand some people may not want to modify their cases, or have to resort to a drill or dremel. Personally I like the opportunity to modify things, especially if I think I can do a good job at it. To me it's like working on your mint souped up muscle car and holding the fenders or spoiler on with zip ties.

Also, it's just me but I prefer all my components to be inside the case. That's one reason why I like the Hydro coolers so much. I wouldn't purchase a nice roomy case if I was planning on putting components outside the case. If I was going to do any "outside the case" building, then I would go for something cool (IMAO) like the Zalman Reserator I with the fan attachment at the top.

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/reseratorfankit/

That's purdy....

That might be worth putting outside, but then I would also have to make it worth having by upgrading my computer guts which are a couple of generations old now (this fall hopefully).
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post #17133 of 28303
I like that Reserator, but if you think about it too much could go wrong with it if it's not hard mounted to the surface that it resides. On wrong move and something like that goes SPLOOSH all over everything.

I knew whatcha meant by drilling holes into the shrouds But why do that when you can bolt your pan on the end with the shroud and then use the bolts instead? Drilling into them only allows air to vortex and muddy the flow. But with to sets of fans and shrouds and 8 bolts you have plenty of spots to attack Zips to and just need the room to cinch it all up in the 5.25 rack. You can still drill holes if there are corners getting in the way though.

Oh and if I was to go solid fizture for the setup I would go with a 4 in 3 device.

~Ceadder
Edited by Ceadderman - 3/31/11 at 10:28pm
 
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post #17134 of 28303
Lol, yeah not what you would want if you have kids around, or for a LAN party, or especially if you have a dog around. I'm sure the temptation would just be too much for him. I suppose a cat wouldn't be much better....

@stimr2

"If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise. "

Wow, that would worry me. Honestly, if mine made a noise like that, especially when it was "upright" the way even Corsair mounts it, I think I would have exchanged it for another one. It looks really sweet in your case when it's upright too.
Edited by Mergatroid - 3/31/11 at 11:06pm
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post #17135 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by stimr2 View Post
I recently replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 with a H70. I read in this thread some people have had pump noises because of air in the system. If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise.

If I mount the pump with the tubes on top the noise stops.


I've also let the pump run while I let it hang lower than the rad to see if it would help get the air out. Also gave it a whack or two. I've also mounted the rad with the tubes at the top and that didn't help either. I'm wondering when it was filled too much air was sealed in it.

So far with the pump mounted with the tubes at the top hasn't made the noise. I really haven't seen a performance increase with the H70 versus the Mugen 2. But that's what I expected, got to say it looks so much cleaner with out the huge chunk of metal sagging on the motherboard.

That is exactly why I love my H50.
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post #17136 of 28303
hi all, i'm new in here

okay i have problem with my H50
i just bought this cooler yesterday and install it today
everything fines and i set fan as intake (take fresh air from outside)

and when i tested it (phenom II x4 955) with prime95 running and i'm surprised with 56 degrees of maximum temp!
my old TX3 only have 51 degrees max temp
even it's same as stock cooler temp

here the ss


what's wrong with that?
i already open my side case for better air flow but it's not affected


sorry for my bad english
Edited by DrakeZ - 4/1/11 at 10:21am
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post #17137 of 28303
Most Likely to much Thermal paste or an un even surface of the cooler or a remount is needed.

you can Lap (search for Lapping) the H50 and put the right amount of thermal psate and then see how it works.

The Hydro series does not have a very good mounting method which can be tricky the first few times to mount correctly.
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post #17138 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by stimr2 View Post
I recently replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 with a H70. I read in this thread some people have had pump noises because of air in the system. If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise.

If I mount the pump with the tubes on top the noise stops.


I've also let the pump run while I let it hang lower than the rad to see if it would help get the air out. Also gave it a whack or two. I've also mounted the rad with the tubes at the top and that didn't help either. I'm wondering when it was filled too much air was sealed in it.

So far with the pump mounted with the tubes at the top hasn't made the noise. I really haven't seen a performance increase with the H70 versus the Mugen 2. But that's what I expected, got to say it looks so much cleaner with out the huge chunk of metal sagging on the motherboard.
You don't have your Push/Pull setup correctly... the outside fan should be pushing fresh air from the outside of the case, and the inside fan should be pulling the hot air off the radiator (it is backwards, idk about the other fan because it cannot be seen in the picture), which is then exhausted out the top of your case via the top fans. The way you have it setup now it is going to be blowing hot air from inside your case onto the radiator. Some correct me if I am wrong, because that is how I understand it and have it setup.
post #17139 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Most Likely to much Thermal paste or an un even surface of the cooler or a remount is needed.

you can Lap (search for Lapping) the H50 and put the right amount of thermal psate and then see how it works.

The Hydro series does not have a very good mounting method which can be tricky the first few times to mount correctly.
I dunno my new 955 also ran hot and I mean HOT with the H50 and no matter how many reseatings it still ran over 60 in Prime and now that I am using my old GeminII S aircooler it only hits 55 at max
post #17140 of 28303
The Hydro series is known to have a crappy base plate. Corsair will still provide full warranty if you lap the plate.
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