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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1825

post #18241 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by NguyenAdam View Post
Did you get the H50 at the BB sale too? I'm pretty disappointed with this thing. Gonna try PP with Yate Loons this week. If I don't see results I like, I'm returning this thing. Gonna stay stock for a little while and get a D14/SA or a Rasa kit later on.
Yeah, I got in on the sale. I feel bad for returning it back to the store. I opened it and used it. Sure, Best Buy allows it, but I feel bad for getting it at such a good price and then returning it.
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post #18242 of 28252
Only problem in the mounting I had was the tape was too thick. Ended up replacing it with thinner 3M mounting tape and from then on had no mounting issues.

I recently sold mine and am no back on the Stock Cooler. Not because the H50 was crap, but because it's time for me to go with dedicated water cooling system with 1/2 inch pipe. If there is one thing I don't like about the H50 it's the size of the hoses. Better flow= Better cooling.

I just had to say something about the "Crap" comment though. I think you get what you put into it. If you don't put anything into it and run one fan on an iAnything then you deserve the cooler to run like Crap. You should know that your iCPU runs hot because you have virtual Cores. The more you run the hotter your CPU will get. The stock fan is NOT going to keep your stock CPU under 50c consistently. Especially when Ambient temps are higher than 29c. If you bought the cooler expecting it to keep your CPU under 29c well...

If you put the work in you will(In most cases) have a pretty reasonable cooler. If you're lazy about it then you have no room to complain about it. I'm saying this in generalized terms. Not calling anyone out, just stating a fact. There are LOTS of owners in the list and we've sorted out what works and what doesn't work so far as these coolers are concerned.

@homestyle... hey bruh, if your pipes are at the top of your Rad try turning the Rad over 180 degrees. Should clear up your noise. If that doesn't cut it, try rapping on the outlet tube(Corsair rightside up Left Pipe) you might have some bubbles trapped there and your system can't purge it without a little vibration. Just use an unsharpened No.2 or a bamboo chopstick to rap on the pipe. Hope it works for you.

Anyway I do understand the 1:25 fault ratio(actually it's probably more like 1:100) and how it can get bad publicity for any manufacturer, but if any Hydro Series cooler was crap, I guarantee Corsair wouldn't put their logo on any part of one.

~Ceadder
 
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post #18243 of 28252
Does any of your tubes twist freely at the pump/block?

The tubes on my H50 spin free almost like they are rotary fittings. They don't twist free when it's mounted, but if I need to reposition the rad to another spot, the tubes twist. There's no leaking now, but wondering if this is a "design" because I've never heard about this "design" in any reviews.
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post #18244 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post
Does any of your tubes twist freely at the pump/block?

The tubes on my H50 spin free almost like they are rotary fittings. They don't twist free when it's mounted, but if I need to reposition the rad to another spot, the tubes twist. There's no leaking now, but wondering if this is a "design" because I've never heard about this "design" in any reviews.
Yes they twist. You just can't manhandle the unit. As long as you're not lapping the block, you shouldn't have any issues rotating the Radiator 180 degrees. Don't rotate at the block, rotate at the Radiator. Less strain at block that way. OH! And make sure your rotation doesn't cause the pipes to twist around the imaginary axis. Try to keep them parallel to each other as much as possible.

~Ceadder
Edited by Ceadderman - 6/6/11 at 11:27pm
 
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post #18245 of 28252
Hey, is it normal that my temps idle at 35~38c with an H60 in push/pull intake for an i5 2500k @ stock speed? Im using Artic Ceramique for thermal compound and i think the temps are kinda high Im kind of pissed...

Heres a pic of my pc, 1 120mm exhaust on top, and in the 5.25" bays, theres a 120mm fan with 1200rpm 44.44cfm as intake. The 2nd fan im using with the H60 is an R4 cooler master @2000rpm 69.69cfm. The fans are @ 100%

Edited by ca4life - 6/7/11 at 7:54pm
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post #18246 of 28252
How do you figure 35c-38c on a Sandy Bridge is high when you're using less than performance TIM? 35c-38c using AC5 or Shin-Etsu G751 would be high. Those temps with Ceramique is pretty respectable. Check out the 80way TIM comparison in my Sig links.

Get a pair of fans of the same CFM rating and RPM also. That R4 is being severely retarted by that 44cfm fan. R4s' and Yate Loon High Speed Silents are both around 88-90 CFM. Don't run something half as good and expect great performance from your cooler choice.

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post #18247 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by luchog View Post
That's just not right. I've only had my H70 for a few months, and now this is making me want to upgrade.

Oh well, that would require too much case modding anyway. (No mounts for a dual).
I know how you feel. My H70 is only a few months old, and I just bought an H50 for my 2nd pc. Doh.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by iCrap View Post
I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.
Personally, my CPU was hitting 72c under load (prime 95) before I moved to the H70 (it's only about 5c better than the H50 stock). Now, with my CPU overclocked about 33% I run about 60c under load. That's a pretty good cooler in my books. As someone else said, if you're expecting full water build temps you should have looked into it further before you purchased it. There are tons of reviews out there and they clearly spell out what to expect with these coolers. There are also a few mods that can be done to make them perform better.



cpu under load o/c from 2.5 to 3.3GHz
Edited by Mergatroid - 6/8/11 at 12:22am
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post #18248 of 28252
my 965 is hitting 50c full load with the h50 push pull is that normal?
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post #18249 of 28252
Pretty normal for a hot day with moderate fans, whats your ambients and fan selection?
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post #18250 of 28252
Yeah that's about right. This of course depends on Ambient Temp. I'm running full load on a lapped 965 BE and getting 47c with the stock cooler. 50c on an unlapped 965BE is very reasonable. At least I'm assuming it's not lapped.

If it's not lapped that's pretty good. If you haven't done so yet I would suggest lapping the H50 and replacing the Stock TIM with Shin-Etsu G751 which is the same stuff. It's also the best stuff just edging out AS5 due to AS5's insanely long Burn In time. 200hours is just too long to wait on. Lapping the plate should get you a couple C less than what you're rolling now. ~5c depending on the severity of the unevenness of the plate. Some people see better. But I think ~5c is a reasonable estimate.

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