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post #18791 of 28365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post
The Hydro coolers compete with the high end air coolers. That means if you have a high end air cooler you will likely not see huge temp differences. However, if you're willing to set up proper push/pull AND "lap" the water block and possibly the CPU you could see more improvement (of course, you could do that to your current cooler). I am not familiar with the cooler you mentioned so I cannot tell you if the H50 is "better".
Lapping won't really make a difference with high-end air coolers; since they're already typically milled very flat and polished to a mirror finish. Gains are typically made from upgrading fans, using higher-quality TIM, and lapping the CPU; and even then rarely manage more than a few degrees.

It makes a substantial difference with Hydro-series coolers, since the cold plate is typically very rough and often uneven (mine was substantially concave). So, stock they compete with high-end air coolers; but with a small amount of effort, should surpass them by a noticible margin.
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post #18792 of 28365
Quote:
Originally Posted by luchog View Post
Lapping won't really make a difference with high-end air coolers; since they're already typically milled very flat and polished to a mirror finish. Gains are typically made from upgrading fans, using higher-quality TIM, and lapping the CPU; and even then rarely manage more than a few degrees.

It makes a substantial difference with Hydro-series coolers, since the cold plate is typically very rough and often uneven (mine was substantially concave). So, stock they compete with high-end air coolers; but with a small amount of effort, should surpass them by a noticible margin.
That's good advice. However, just yesterday I purchased a Zalman CNPS10X for a stock clocked core 2 quad, and it has almost the same surface as my H70 has. That is it's flattened using a grinder, leaving grooves in the cooling plate.

I suppose it depends on the cooler. I was looking at a Cooler Master yesterday with no real cooling plate, but actual copper tubes (the pipes) going through an aluminum block where it's the copper pipes making the contact with the CPU. The surface on that air cooler was pretty rough as well. Of course, I suppose those would not be "high end" air coolers.

There are examples of both of these types of plates in the TIM article linked in Ceadderman's sig.
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post #18793 of 28365
I am tempted to go to Bestbuy today and make use of this $40 H50 sale. My current OC situation is a hot 3.6Ghz Q6600 (G0). The Zalman 9700NT I have is too noisy for my tastes and maintains temps of 50C idle and 60-65C max load. In CPU intensive applications such as BFBC2 I have seen core 0 get to 70-73C for brief moments.

Will an H50 be able to improve the temps on a 3.6Ghz Q6600 (G0) overclock?
post #18794 of 28365
1.Lapp the cooling plate

2.Get a pair of matched(RPM) fans for Push/Pull

3.You can turn the stock fan into or you can get a shroud to put between the Push fan and the Radiator lowering the dB of the unit and also add cooling.

If you do these things I still can't guarantee that you'll be happy. But I did and my system ran between 29c and 32c idle. Under load it ran ~48c. But I also lapped my CPU on my 955 which net me -10c less over stock.

Intel CPUs' run hotter than AMD units, so yes you could certainly see better temps but I can't guarantee you will. But being that the H50 is comparable(with some slight modification) to the Noctua D14 or Nahelem's Megahelms, it would certainly be better than the Zalman cooler.

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post #18795 of 28365
Has anyone gotten a H100 yet?
post #18796 of 28365
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78@pwnt4lif3 View Post
Has anyone gotten a H100 yet?
I am very interested in how well it performs.
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post #18797 of 28365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post
I suppose it depends on the cooler. I was looking at a Cooler Master yesterday with no real cooling plate, but actual copper tubes (the pipes) going through an aluminum block where it's the copper pipes making the contact with the CPU. The surface on that air cooler was pretty rough as well. Of course, I suppose those would not be "high end" air coolers.
Definitely not high-end coolers. High-end coolers would be stuff like the Noctua NH-D14, Prolimatech Megahalems, or Thermaltake Jing. There are exceptions, of course.

Direct-Contact coolers -- coolers where the heat pipes make direct contact with the CPU/GPU, rather than sandwiched between metal plates -- are often more roughly machined; but these are more common as GPU coolers than CPU coolers. Direct-Contact CPU coolers tend to be more middle- to low-end, like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 or Thermaltake Contac 30.
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post #18798 of 28365
Evening chaps, Thought it was time to show me face in this thread again.
Recently upgraded me motherboard and Hard drives etc and ofc had to reseat me cpu.
Seems a little hotter than before tbh got me Overclock back to 3.66 I am planning on going 4ghz but wanna make sure I get me H50 sorted first.

All my OC settings are the same, even managed to get the stability at the same voltage (1.14v) as before with my old Motherboard.

Idle temps at the moment are:
42, 38, 38, 38
Max load
62, 58, 58, 58

Just wondering if theres been any new methods/ideas since I was last active in this thread to get the lowest possible temps with me old H50 ?
Another reseat perhaps ? My pump is slightly off centre aswel I remember somewhere in this thread stating that doesn't help with temps?

perhaps the Ceadderman has some advice ? I see your still quite active in this thread, Good work pal!
    
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post #18799 of 28365
Glad to see you're still about Mate.

I don't have a lot more to add, but maybe I can still be of assistance.

1) If you feel a reseat is necessary by all means don't mickey about and do a reseat. But you might try using the Pea method in the middle of the CPU using some G751 if you can lay your hands on a tube. Don't spread it yourself.

I understand that's not an approved method for Intel owners but I've found that G751 spreads pretty well when you just let the weight of the pump and the movement to lock it down is applied evenly. I've found that was how to get my best temps. But I also have AMD, so for what that's worth.

2) Look for the best possible location of your Radiator and make sure the tubes are at the lower. I mounted mine in the 5.25 drive chassis so that no heat would be sucked through the Push Pull. I noticed when I had my hand above that unit put out quite a bit of heat. Even in low ambients.

3) Make sure your Radiator is kept as clear of dust as possible. It doesn't take long for dust to clog the vanes of the unit. I would suggest a periodic cleaning with a soft bristle paint brush. Figure £1-2 for a reasonably decent brush. With the birds here I was cleaning out my Radiator every 2-3 months so I cleaned it about 4 times give or take. Even with my DEMCiFlex filters in place.

4)Depending on the age of the CPU, you might want to look into lapping it. If it's near the end of the warranty most especially. lawrencedlw's Intel CPU isn't able to be RMA'ed because the identification marks have since worn off due to the heat built up from OC'ing and Folding. This is the ideal time for a lapping imho. If your CPU looks similar then I would suggest a proper lapping.

When I lapped my 955(Practically BNIB) it lowered my temps between 10-15c depending on the ambients. It was rather surprising how much cooler my CPU ran from stock to lapped.

Hope this helps Mate keep us informed. Lemme know if you can't find some G751. I can probably help you in this regard or one of our Mates can lend a hand.

Cheers

~Ceadder
 
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post #18800 of 28365
I picked one of these up from my BestBuy tonight, so good to be back at 4.0Ghz...my mugen2 wasn't cutting it in this summer heat.

I need to do some stability testing now.
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