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post #18961 of 28303
well, i narrowed my choice for H70 replacement fans down to these two:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054

Now, i know the Delta's are better but the Delta's cost about $14.00 USD more. I wonder how much cooling difference there would be for $14.00?? In other words, if there is only a 1 or 2 degree difference i'll go with the cheaper Ultra Kaze but if it's like 5 degrees or better then it might be worth spending the extra cash correct for the Delta's correct??
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post #18962 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltg2227;14326891 
well, i narrowed my choice for H70 replacement fans down to these two:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054

Now, i know the Delta's are better but the Delta's cost about $14.00 USD more. I wonder how much cooling difference there would be for $14.00?? In other words, if there is only a 1 or 2 degree difference i'll go with the cheaper Ultra Kaze but if it's like 5 degrees or better then it might be worth spending the extra cash correct for the Delta's correct??
Than get those Ultra Kaze, since they're rated for even more cfm than the Delta's, I have one 2000rpm and it runs just fine. Don't know how it lasts (it's a regular sleeve bearing) and, of course, the 3000's would make some extra noise biggrin.gif
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post #18963 of 28303
My splitter has 8 wires in it. It's PWM after all. wink.gif Occasionally I did receiver erroneous readings but to the positive than the negative aspect. Mostly with reporting software like HW Monitor. I'd open that sucker up and it would report that I was running well over 100k rpm over and above what the true reading should have been. wheee.gif <---push/pull reading tongue.gif

Only time I get 404 Errors is when my Network is being a slug. I've seen them in the advertisements but I'm assuming that the ad generators network is being a slug too. wink.gif

As far as the Fan suggestions go... if you're going to run a 38mm fan shroud AND 38mm fan I would measure the Rad thickness and add 86mm(2). That's a LOT of real estate to sacrifice just to run P/P. Even in a Full Tower HAF case. I would suggest 38mm +50mm. That being shroud and PP fans. Get something like CM Excalibur or Yate Loon Medium or High Speed Silents. You can get the YLs' cheap enough to buy both the Meds and Highs and still have money left over above buying UKs',GTs' or many of the other high dollar fans.

They suggest not running them horizontally since they're sleeved bearings, but that is exactly how I run mine and they've never complained slacked or come apart at the seams. biggrin.gif

I ran my P/P in the ceiling of my 932 with just enough room to spare to keep four 5.25 bays for use. The 38mm shroud will make it so only 3 can be used, but it's the perfect place in the 932 to draw cool air in and to expel the hot air out. It can get rather warm when you're Folding. biggrin.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
Edited by Ceadderman - 7/24/11 at 1:41pm
 
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post #18964 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokin;14326517 
My splitter has 4-pins for both connecters, so I get the right reading, but sometimes it gets weird readings like 700+RPM instead of 2000+RPM when it's at full speed.

I get server errors time to time as well (maybe once every week or two), though none in the last few days.

PWM fan splitters should have only one tac wire going to one fan. If they have four wires going to all the fans then they have been built incorrectly.

Motherboard headers and fan controllers are made to interpret the tac signal from one fan, not multiple fans. If there are more than one tac signal the controller will get confused. I based the design of the one I made from commercial products like this:

http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitter-cable_p01520c032d015.html

That is a 3 fan splitter, and as you can see it has only one tac wire on the CPU_FAN connector (and three PWM signal wires). On the three actual fan connectors, you can see only one of them has all four wires. The other two are missing the tac wire so as not to confuse the monitoring device with multiple tac signals.

Here is the GELID splitter I bought for the H50 in another computer:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX31957%28ME%29.aspx

It also only uses three wires to one fan.

Here is another example:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/10350/cab-183_3.jpg/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html

And another:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/10350/cab-183_2.jpg/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html

Here is an example of a person who bought a PWM fan splitter that was wired incorrectly:

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148577

Here is a diagram of the splitter I made for my H70:

4pinpwmfansplitter.jpg

As you can see, one tac signal (yellow to CPU Header).

Anyone who's using a PWM splitter and is getting erroneous RPM readings should check to make sure there is only one tac wire coming from the fans. It's usually green on a commercially made splitter. If there are multiple tac wires, remove the wire from all the fan connectors except for one. Just make sure you check a wiring diagram before cutting the wires.

Hey, has anyone tried this TIM:

http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/produkte/liquid-ultra/

I'm hearing some pretty amazing claims about temp drops. Some people are saying after applying this to their video cards they have seen a 17c to 20c drop in temps.

I'm trying to find a local place to order me some right now.
Edited by Mergatroid - 7/24/11 at 4:07pm
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post #18965 of 28303
Throw out all your FrozenCPU links. Invalid. We're talking about a Y Splitter. And you can set those up the way your Gelid is or keep 8 wires in std PWM configuration as long as your Ground wire and your Green wires are Piggy backed.

As I've stated before, you take the RPM listed and /2. You need the PWM for both connectors IF you intend to use PWM fans. You do not have to run PWM specifically. I ran std LED fans in mine and I've kept it because it's rather useful to have the ability to connect two PWM to one header. You board reads and commands them when plugged into PWM just as though they were 3 pin connectors. PWM doesn't have a dang thing to do with running the MoBo other than the CPU header needing a fan connected there to POST.

Also Merg I know you mean well but you put up a diagram of Molex powered splitter. In this instance you may be correct as the load sent to the fans to be connected there is constant. The load sent to fans on MainBoard headers is not, unless you set them to ignore. wink.gif

Oh yes ALSO jsut to make things a bit clearer. In the diagram the reason there are no power connections to PWM is because there is no need for them since Molex is taking care of that. If you notice the Yellow/Blue wires still go to the same places in the 4 pin connectors. If you were to run Power from Molex AND power from MoBo you would have a problem and in fairly short order. ninja.gif

Haven't used that TIM, but spreading it with a brush? No thanks I'll stick to my G751 and let my CPU block spread it. No burn in time either. smile.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
Edited by Ceadderman - 7/24/11 at 4:39pm
 
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post #18966 of 28303
I have that Gelid Y-splitter for my Silent 12 PWM's on my H60...
post #18967 of 28303
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO9APx2yKrg"]Youtube installation by Corsair[/ame]

i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
And i have an installation question.

In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
How can i maintain a good airflow?
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post #18968 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenGeisha;14333378 
i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
And i have an installation question.

In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
How can i maintain a good airflow?

The pull fan on the rad may very well be drawing in cooler air but by the time it goes through your rad... it wont be very cool. This is the optimal configuration for the H series coolers.

I'd suggest you'll be okay leaving your front case fan as is. It all balances out in the end.
post #18969 of 28303
Jesus Mergatroid, that was a lot of writing to read. There was no need to write a whole ton of things to explain the simple concept of how splitters work. I simply have 2 tac signals being sent to the header. It does not affect the way they work though, both run at around the same speed.

I have a PWM Y-splitter that supports 2 PWM fans, hence 8pins going to a 4-pin fan header. The "wrong" type as you mentioned.

Linky

I'm kind of sad that when I went to check what I had, my top fan accidentally scraped a part of the splitter and caused two threads of the sleeving to come loose. sad face

That Liquid Ultra TIM looks interesting though previous threads about it scare me off. Linky
    
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post #18970 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenGeisha;14333378 
Youtube installation by Corsair

i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
And i have an installation question.

In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
How can i maintain a good airflow?

Corsair recommends the radiator intake air from outside the case because its always going to be cooler than the air inside the case getting warmed up by everything. This, of course, dumps more warm air into the case but if you have a decent exhaust fan in the top (right above the H60) you should be fine.

I run my H60 as an exhaust for aesthetic reasons and it can lose a lot of efficiency if my GPU's are running hot....
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