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post #19191 of 28247
I would definitely return it if the cover came off. That would annoy me to no end every time I looked at it. As far as the noise, could just be air bubbles being worked through the pump, but not sure. It wouldn't matter to me, because it would be going back anyways because of the cover plate coming off.
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post #19192 of 28247
broken panel dont bother as that can be fixed but the noise on the pump is becoming unbearable heh. rma'd. i wonder if im gonna get better temps with a new unit. i only got an average of 5C drop on temps switching from H60.
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Yep, Aeris died
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post #19193 of 28247
Hope it all works out for you!
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post #19194 of 28247
Love my H70 <3

Btw my H70 was mounted in a really ****ed place.I had to drill a GIANT hole for the Rad on the top of my case.Worked out really good

Ghettoness FTW!!
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post #19195 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethermir View Post
curse you for shooting my hopes down lol. in short im wrong. p/p won't fit inside unless you do some sort of mod/squishing/bending.



the problem is the 8-pin socket, looks like there is more or less only 20mm clearance. the 4-pin and 3-pin fan isn't much of a problem so long as you don't use it.
Sigh....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Flip your fans over. You're fighting natural convection with Intake since heat rises. Having Run my H50 setup at the top of my 932, I'm pretty confident you should see a little better temp. So you might as well stop fighting physics and flip em.

~Ceadder
According to Corsair George and some other sources, overcoming the natural movement of warm air is no problem. The force of the fans is way greater than the force of convection so that should not be taken into account when planning your air flow. Some cases operate better with an intake at the top, especially those that have video cards that exhaust into the case.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-252.html

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

Both those threads have related discussions. They're not the only place I've heard people discussing it and saying their temps were reduced when they changed the top to intake in their case. I'm not saying it's good for every situation, but each case and build should be evaluated on it's own merits.
However I have also been wondering about fan orientation for the H100. I just got mine but have not installed it yet. I am doing another temp set before I switch. I don't want the fans to be "pull", but if they have to go on the top, and I want exhaust (due to dust considerations) I don't see what choice I have. I will definitely check Ceadderman's idea about installing the bottom fans first and then installing the assembly. I think it's worth a try, but I'm not holding my breath.
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post #19196 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post
Sigh....



According to Corsair George and some other sources, overcoming the natural movement of warm air is no problem. The force of the fans is way greater than the force of convection so that should not be taken into account when planning your air flow. Some cases operate better with an intake at the top, especially those that have video cards that exhaust into the case.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-252.html

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

Both those threads have related discussions. They're not the only place I've heard people discussing it and saying their temps were reduced when they changed the top to intake in their case. I'm not saying it's good for every situation, but each case and build should be evaluated on it's own merits.
However I have also been wondering about fan orientation for the H100. I just got mine but have not installed it yet. I am doing another temp set before I switch. I don't want the fans to be "pull", but if they have to go on the top, and I want exhaust (due to dust considerations) I don't see what choice I have. I will definitely check Ceadderman's idea about installing the bottom fans first and then installing the assembly. I think it's worth a try, but I'm not holding my breath.
what's the sigh for
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Yep, Aeris died
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post #19197 of 28247
Purchased the h70 but im not exactly impressed. I used to own a cnps10x performa (running stock fan at the time) and the h70 only performs around 3oC better while being twice as loud. I still had lots of headroom anyway (52oC load @ 4 on h70) so im running 4.2GHz at 1.37v at around 58-60 loads with the h70 but in the 70's while priming. Still very good temps but disappointed because of the minimal difference. It idles very high (at 40oC) because if i tune my fan controller up it gets way too loud as my fans are 3000rpm ea.
Overall id give this a 7/10 at best, its a nice product but definately note amazing, if noise is a big issue then just get the dh14 or the megahalems. I only purchased the h70 because my Pi ram is rediculously high, turns out the upgrade was not that significant. Just thought i would share my story to the people that are in a dilema.
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post #19198 of 28247
Try different fans. You can get Yate Loons UBER CHEAP, which have a really good Static Pressure rate. You might give them a try in Medium Speed Silents at this time of year for you in New Zealand. During the Summer months I would suggest High Speed Silents and a fan controller, if you aren't running one already.

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post #19199 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Try different fans. You can get Yate Loons UBER CHEAP, which have a really good Static Pressure rate. You might give them a try in Medium Speed Silents at this time of year for you in New Zealand. During the Summer months I would suggest High Speed Silents and a fan controller, if you aren't running one already.

~Ceadder
My fans run at 3000rpm and i can definately tell you that they have immense pressure, they are easily comparable to kaze's. Might try some of those yate loons my mate has (Yate Loon D12SM-12) but i doubt the static pressure and cfm is superior to mine.
Edited by Uncivilised - 8/8/11 at 11:47pm
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post #19200 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncivilised View Post
My fans run at 3000rpm and i can definately tell you that they have immense pressure, they are easily comparable to kaze's. Might try some of those yate loons my mate has (Yate Loon D12SM-12) but i doubt the static pressure and cfm is superior to mine.
Speed of the fans really don't mean anything with Radiators imho. I changed from D12SH-124R to D12SM-124R and maintained a shroud in both P/P setups and didn't see much of a change in temps(+/-) during the Spring. But changing over allowed me the opportunity to throw in my Controller for the Summer. I'd still be on the H50, but my testing the waters with my H50 led me to crave even cooler temps. Especially since my NB ran pretty high without having a fan sucking air into the area the way the Stock cooler and Air Coolers do. I've got my FC block and my CPU block and am just about ready to step away from the Stock cooler for good. The one thing that I'm going to miss about the Hydro Series is not having to do much in the way of maintenance to it. Other than cleaning out the dust bunnies from the bottom of the Radiator that is.

Anyway, you might be surprised as to the benefits of cheap@$$ Yate Loons. I've still got some and when I go with a 360, that's my first fan of choice. D12SH-124R connected to a 3 way splitter and hooked up to my RheoSmart controller.

~Ceadder
 
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