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post #19441 of 28253
I got tired of the air raid siren wine of my 3K Kaze Ultra's so I am using the Corsair resistors. Still slightly better than the Corsair fans and pretty quiet.
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post #19442 of 28253
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcyPimpHand View Post
Hey guys I would like some help, it's a quick question, and I don't want to start a new thread on it.


Last week my pump started making a clicking noise. People said it needed an RMA, so I issued a ticket. Well knowing my luck the clicking stopped, but I temps seemed to risen a couple of degrees. It could be from the ambient temps, but I don't know.

So my question is if I send my h50 with the clicking now gone, will they send me mine back or replace it?
That's a tough question. I don't know if they test RMAd coolers. If they did test it and it didn't make any noise you could get it back NFF (No Fault Found).

What was the clicking noise like? I have another computer here with an H50 and it makes a kind of rattle noise but it's fairly high frequency. It's not loud enough to hear with the case closed and the temps seem OK so I've never done anything about it. Maybe PM Corsair-George and ask him about it.
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post #19443 of 28253
Add Me please
H60, Modded for Push/ Pull


post #19444 of 28253
Congrats to my neighbor pioneerisloud.

Well the fire here is out I think. At least I'm no longer smelling any smoke.

Go ahead and send it in IcyPimp but make sure to add a note letting them know your temps have gone up but clicking has stopped. I doubt they wish to play around with it. Considering your system is covered by the warranty I doubt they want to buy you a new Mainboard or anything else that could get damaged if they sent it back and it failed since it's still under warranty.

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post #19445 of 28253
Someone will suggest to change the stock fan with another a little more quite? I have a 600T, so the radiator in inside and the fan outside in pull(exhaust) config.
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post #19446 of 28253
You'd get better results using push I would think, but then you'd have to use intake instead of exhaust. Can you put a picture up of the inside of your computer?

You can't just turn the fans down? There is a great list of fans for rads in a test thread Ceadderman found:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

They list lots of different fans and test them all for flow and noise. The H100 fans have a high static pressure so you should be able to turn them down to the low setting and still get good temps.
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post #19447 of 28253
The problem is if I turn the fan in intake i'll have only the rear one as exhaust (front=intake, 4xside=intake, rear=exhaust, h100=exhaust). Btw they are already at minimum and I though since they are exhausting i don't need high static pressure or I'm wrong? Btw i'll look at the topic you linked

Edited by Vesimas - 9/15/11 at 3:56am
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post #19448 of 28253
The thing is that the static pressure is very important for push fans but not so important for pull fans (I read this information from Corsair George). Pull is not as efficient as push is. I honestly cannot say what the temp difference would be between push and pull.

Remember that Corsair designed the H100 specifically for their cases. If you did set it up for push/intake you would get a positive pressure in your case which is desirable to keep dust from entering through all the little cracks and seams in the case. Of course, I would recommend getting a dust filter to put on your H100 fans.

I had the same problem you are having. I wanted exhaust, but because of the way the H100 and 600T are set up, with just one set of fans the only way you can get exhaust working is with pull (fans on the top with the rad inside).

What I ended up doing is cutting another 120mm fan hole at the front of the case on the top. This let me move the H100 rad one fan length toward the front of the case into the top drive bay (I have a two bay fan controller in my top two bays and it's only 1/2 length so it does not cause a problem with the H100). This allowed four fans so I could have push/pull exhaust. Not everyone will want to do that though. It was a lot of work, and did require cutting a big hole in the top of the case, but it turned out really sweet and works well. The top grill/cover still fits too so you can't even tell there's a big hole (you can't see the hole at all even with the top grill removed).



The thing is, if I had of decided I didn't want to mod my case for push/pull, I think I would have gone with intake/push and put a really beefy case fan on the back for exhaust. If you go into some of the other water cooler threads you can ask around and see if anyone has tested push vs pull. Maybe you're fine the way you are, but I was under the impression that pull by itself is not the best way to go.

Does your video card exhaust into the case or out the back? This is another thing to consider. Corsair George has mentioned that if your card exhausts into the case and you're using the top fans as intake, you can set up your front fan as exhaust and have a reverse flow. I think I have a couple of links that may help you decide:

Here's one where George mentions using the top fans as intake, and some on air flow:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-252.html

Here's one on the two different types of exhaust video cards use and reversing your flow to compensate for internal video card exhaust:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

Both link posts are at toward the bottom of the pages.

After reading all of this, I decided to mod my case for push/pull. I really thought about it for about a week before making the decision, but I'm happy with how it turned out. If you decide to change your fan orientation, be sure to add a little better fan on the back. It seems to me if that fan was beefed up a little it would do a good job of pulling the H100 exhaust out the back of the case while the front 200mm fan can provide fresh air coming in. Don't forget that fans on a rad don't give you their full rated air flow because they have to push through the rad. I'm sure a single good 120mm fan on the back would be adequate to handle exhaust if you reversed your H100 fans.

Tough decision you have to make. Let us know what you decide, and if you do decide to go with push/intake could you do us a favor? Take a screen shot of your CPU and GPU temps under load (Prime 95 and Furmark if you can) before you change (a half hour test is good), then reorient your fans and do the same test again. Do it with the controller set to max. It would help others to make the same decision you're considering right now.

Edit:

Here is a site given to me for a comparison of push/pull and shrouds.

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com...ng-Review.html

Although they are comparing high speed 38mm fans to low speed 25mm fans, they seem to think that pull is better at low speed and push is better at high speed. If this is true, since you're using low speed you should be fine with pull.
Edited by Mergatroid - 9/15/11 at 7:05pm
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post #19449 of 28253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vesimas View Post
The problem is if I turn the fan in intake i'll have only the rear one as exhaust (front=intake, 4xside=intake, rear=exhaust, h100=exhaust). Btw they are already at minimum and I though since they are exhausting i don't need high static pressure or I'm wrong? Btw i'll look at the topic you linked
When I fitted my H100, I ended up using the top fan ports that where originally exhaust ports. I have the H100 in P/P, intake.

This left me with only one exhaust port at the rear. In truth, I really havent noticed any issues with having only one exhaust port.
post #19450 of 28253
I'm alittle worried about my temperatures.

Running 2600k 4.8ghz at 1.4vcore and my temps are over 80 C

Are my temps ok?
    
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