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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 2005

post #20041 of 28251
403

The adhesive (I) make the rubber backplate bend because the metal bits go into the holes in mobo to tighten the 4 screws... How can you all make the rubber backplate not bend?

I'm certain that I'm using the correct hole, backplate, and socket for 1156 / 1155..
Seyraa :*
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Seyraa :*
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post #20042 of 28251
I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.

I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?
post #20043 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

Here's some pics:
Lapped i5-2500k
450
Lapped H50:
450
The setup:
450

Did the lapped versions make any difference in temps?
post #20044 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sethy666 View Post

This one?
sneaky.gif: : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : : sneaky.gif

Yeah, its a litte wonky but if you hightlight it, it seems to work.
You could PM Killhouse (thread starter) and advise him... Having said that, he's a bit busy ATM smile.gif

I think I'll work on it myself (hopefully today) and fix it. I'll post it when fixed so anyone that wants to "upgrade" can or they can use it on page one.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

Something a little odd on my H100.
I was using it on a Gigabyte Socket 775 motherboard without issue. Working great at 7c lower than the H70 I was using before the H100.
When I changed my mobo to an ASUS i5 socket 1155 I noticed the screws for the H100 block were not tight. That is, they were screwed into the back plate as far as they would go, but they were still wobbly. I installed the TIM and the block, and everything seemed solid so I thought it was just that way the H100 block fit on this board.
This weekend I tore my system apart to clean it and swap fan controllers. While I was in there I decided to investigate the block because I didn't think the system was quite idling as low as it should be. I had been getting temps from about 33c to around 38c when just web browsing.
Sure enough the screws were still loose although they were screwed in all the way. I removed the block and found the TIM to be a little thicker on one side than the other which seemed to indicate it was not making full contact with the CPU. I removed the rear back plate and installed a red paper/fiber washer on each of the screw posts to hold the plate further off the board. I reinstalled the screws and they were tight and no longer wobbly or loose. After applying TIM and reinstalling, my idle temps now dip into the high 20s at the same ambient, and usually are under 35 while web browsing. I still have a week or two to go before the AS5 is cured which should give another 1 or 2c.
It's funny that the screws were tight on the socket 775 board but loose on the socket 1155 board. It's almost like the boards are a different thickness.
Just thought I would bring it up in case anyone else noticed the same thing.

Another thing that I don't think a lot of users do is tighten the screws wrong. You should use a 'criss-cross' pattern (like putting on a new tire wheel, you criss-cross tighten the bolts). Same with the cooling plate, tighten them in a criss-cross fasion until all are finger tight and won't go anymore. You'll find it'll fit better and won't come lose.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 78@pwnt4lif3 View Post

I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.
I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?

I might have a newer version as the back plate seems to be made of a stronger plastic and isn't prone to bending and there's no adhesive.
post #20045 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sethy666 View Post

This one?
sneaky.gif: : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : : sneaky.gif

Yeah, its a litte wonky but if you hightlight it, it seems to work.
You could PM Killhouse (thread starter) and advise him... Having said that, he's a bit busy ATM smile.gif

Well, I tried highlighting it every which way I could think of and couldn't get the above result, but I did modify it a bit and got the result you see below. It's nice and when you click on it, it takes you here to the beginning of the thread and club. I'll try and add the purple color to it (right now I did this as a fast fix) and re-post when it's done. But for now, (I think) not too shabby....

Here's the code if anyone wants it.

Code:
[SIZE=3][B][I]:sneaky: [URL=http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club]: : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : : :sneaky:[/URL][/B][/I][/SIZE]
post #20046 of 28251
78@pwn,

I'm not sure. I replaced my Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 with the H50 and when I took off the air cooler I right away lapped the i5 and when I got the H50 I lapped that right away too. I'd imagine I lowered my temps a few C. The grooves in the milling of the H50 were pretty bad and the i5 was clearly concave.
450

The AC Freezer 13 was surprisingly really flat. When I lapped it, it was perfectly flat, just had a few grooves I needed to take care of. I'm really happy with the temps with the H50. Doesn't hit 50C in BF3...
post #20047 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadget_lova View Post

Do you mean the rubber plate??? If I didn't bend the rubber backplate, the pump socket will not screw tightly.. Or is that the correct way to mount it in 1155??

I didn't try my H70 or H50 in a 1155 socket. However, if you're bending it you may be installing it incorrectly.

Let me check my manual for my H50 (the H50 and H70 mount the same way).

Is your cooler the H70 Core or the older H70? If it's a Core, watch this video:

http://www.corsair.com/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html

If it's the older H70:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE

If you have the older cooler, you have a back plate with multiple screw holes in it. If you put the pins in the correct holes, they will fit in the screw holes in the board without any bending involved. At about 2:40 in the video, they show a great image of the back plate. Each corner has three holes. (unfortunately I cannot find my H50 instructions). You have to put the pins in the holes that allow installation without bending.

Ah, here we go. Found the perfect page:

http://www.corsair.com/blog/faq-mounting-your-hydro-series-h50-h70-to-socket-1155/

You want to put your pins in the holes labeled 1156. If you do this you should be able to mount the back plate without bending anything. You can see on that page that the back plate mounts in crooked, so it won't be perfectly straight vertically.

You can see how it should look here:

322

OK, if you're using the adhesive you may get a slight bending. I didn't use the adhesive because I didn't want that junk on my mobo if I removed the cooler. So, it sounds like you have the back plate installed correctly. Just make sure the pins go through the holes in the mobo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78@pwnt4lif3 View Post

I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.
I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?

That's why I never used the adhesive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPilotJAE View Post

I think I'll work on it myself (hopefully today) and fix it. I'll post it when fixed so anyone that wants to "upgrade" can or they can use it on page one.
.
Another thing that I don't think a lot of users do is tighten the screws wrong. You should use a 'criss-cross' pattern (like putting on a new tire wheel, you criss-cross tighten the bolts). Same with the cooling plate, tighten them in a criss-cross fasion until all are finger tight and won't go anymore. You'll find it'll fit better and won't come lose.
I might have a newer version as the back plate seems to be made of a stronger plastic and isn't prone to bending and there's no adhesive.

Agreed, that's the way I've always done it. Mine is the H100 so it uses a metal plate quite different from the H50/70.

450

Uh, sure you got enough TIM on there?
Nukeyork
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Nukeyork
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post #20048 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

I didn't try my H70 or H50 in a 1155 socket. However, if you're bending it you may be installing it incorrectly.
Let me check my manual for my H50 (the H50 and H70 mount the same way).
Is your cooler the H70 Core or the older H70? If it's a Core, watch this video:
http://www.corsair.com/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
If it's the older H70:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE
If you have the older cooler, you have a back plate with multiple screw holes in it. If you put the pins in the correct holes, they will fit in the screw holes in the board without any bending involved. At about 2:40 in the video, they show a great image of the back plate. Each corner has three holes. (unfortunately I cannot find my H50 instructions). You have to put the pins in the holes that allow installation without bending.
Ah, here we go. Found the perfect page:
http://www.corsair.com/blog/faq-mounting-your-hydro-series-h50-h70-to-socket-1155/
You want to put your pins in the holes labeled 1156. If you do this you should be able to mount the back plate without bending anything. You can see on that page that the back plate mounts in crooked, so it won't be perfectly straight vertically.
You can see how it should look here:
322
OK, if you're using the adhesive you may get a slight bending. I didn't use the adhesive because I didn't want that junk on my mobo if I removed the cooler. So, it sounds like you have the back plate installed correctly. Just make sure the pins go through the holes in the mobo.
That's why I never used the adhesive.

+rep, thx for superb explanation.. thumb.gif The pins have go through all the holes in my mobo. You're right, maybe I should not using the adhesive..

Mine is H70 vanilla, I have check my load temp, it's max 53'C - 55'C.. It's still quite good for stock clock, but I think it could be better..
The screw bracket in H70 pump socket is not so good and easy to break down. My first 4 screw bracket have deform and cannot be used again.. The last four is no better..
If I want to order a new bracket for H70, I should order to corsair directly, and I think I will not be happy with shipping charge as I live in Indonesia.

I think I should re-apply my TIM.
Seyraa :*
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Seyraa :*
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post #20049 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post


Agreed, that's the way I've always done it. Mine is the H100 so it uses a metal plate quite different from the H50/70.

Didn't know the 100 had a metal plate. I almost bought the 100 (wish I did now, it was a matter of being cheap). The 100 would have fit my case as it has two 120mm outlets on the top of the case and I would have avoided buying an extra fan to make my H60 cool a bit better in a push/pull config. Not to mention the money I spent on the extra fan and a Y-cable for the fans would have equaled the cost of the 100. Hind sight. Actually hind-sight should be something like, I'm now kicking myself in the ass for not getting the 100 in the first place...doh.gif
post #20050 of 28251
Now i wish i had removed the adhesive in the first place long time ago lol. But i'm fine with it. I can always replace the same cooler since it has the same backplate biggrin.gif If i feel it's needed as a future proof. I think i had this for two years now i lost count to be honest lol.
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