Official Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 2076

For prime blend, I am seeing about 4-5C difference on the main cores, and on small FFTs I am seeing about 6-7C difference on the main cores. Hard to really gauge with the Gulftown CPUs, my mid cores are like 58C and main cores 68C max on small FFTs. Gaming is my main deal, and it keeps temps quite low in BF3 etc as expected.

Hi everyone

On the first page the thread starter said to PM him, with common questions...but I'm a bit too shy to send him a PM

Anyway I've always used aircoolers, but I'll be buying a piledriver when it comes out and I want some good cooler to push it to around 4-5ghz.

I asked around tomshardware and everyone says bad about closed loop coolers... One guy even said the leak chance was around 20%... Can you guys give me some advice on this as I am a bit afraid of leaks after that.

Also I live in the south of spain, most of the time, and it's fairly hot during summer, today was around 38-40C, do you guys thing the H70 is a good buy or should I try and go for a H80? (I have a HAF X)

I bought a H80 for my new PC last month and i RMA'd it because the fan controller didnt seem to work. I followed the instructions that the CS Rep gave me to reset but nothing changed. I received my new H80 today, installed it and im having the same problem. Is it possible to get 2 defects back to back? I really dont want to have to wait another month to have this one replaced. I have both, the fan connecter and molex connecter plugged in. Should I have both plugged? I know you guys are Corsair Reps but any help is greatly appreciated.

P.S. I ran AIDA64 stress test to see if the fans would ramp up and they never did, my temps reached 70C.

Hi. I'm not privy to the manufacturers failure rates, but most consumer goods have about a 6% failure rate. I would suppose that closed loop water coolers are no different. However, it's likely only a percentage of the failures actually leak. I'm pretty sure I can count on one hand the number of times I have seen people complaining about leaking with the Corsair coolers. In each case, Corsair offered to replace any damaged equipment if the leak was caused by a manufacturing defect. In one case, a guy had a leak and Corsair actually sent him better parts than what he had to begin with.

The Hydro Series coolers (with the exception of the H40) all have 5-year warranties. I'm a member at Tom's too, and in general their a pretty good bunch of guys over there, but I do know there's a few of them who have no clue when it comes to closed loop water coolers. I bet, to a man, all the guys speaking out against them haven't even tried one. If you look around on ocn, in the threads for different cases and builds you'll see tons of water coolers. Almost as many as air coolers. This is the right place to ask, because many of the people here have experience with them.

The H70 Core is not a bad cooler, even more so because you're not paying for fans and you can select your own. There's no doubt though that the H80 is a little better cooler as it has a newer pump design. I would expect the H80 to perform about (roughly) 4-5c better than the H70 (I fully documented my H70 to H100 switch last year, and I got about 7c better temps across all four cores. Since the H80 is pretty close to the H100, I would expect it to be about 5c better than the H70 under the same circumstances). That was with a Core 2 Quad 2.5GHz overclocked to 3.3GHz. Your results will vary with different CPUs.

Maybe you should email Corsair George ( yellowbeard@corsair.com ). It's really unfortunate to get two units in a row with a bad block/fan controller. Have you thought about using third party fan controller instead of the controller in the block? Have you checked to see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans? If so, you can plug them into your motherboard. Some motherboards now have two cpu_fan headers but if yours doesn't you may need a splitter of some kind. Unfortunately, other than Corsair's reset instructions, I don't know of any way to get a failed block/fan controller to work.

The Molex connector is for the voltage going to the pump and the fans. The small connector you plug into the CPU_FAN header is the RPM signal from the pump. This lets you see the RPM the pump is running at in BIOS or with software, while also preventing a possible CPU_FAN error some motherboards will get if there is no CPU_FAN RPM signal.

I would recommend talking to Corsair George first though. He may have better advice or a better solution. If you find the only option for you is to send it away again, think about using a different method to control your fans. You do have a few other options.

1. Purchase a fan controller. They're fairly inexpensive and work pretty good. Unfortunately you'll have to manually control your fans (some people like this).
2. Check and see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans. If it will, you can use it to control your cpu cooler fans. Check your manual. You may need a splitter.
3. If your motherboard will not control 3-pin fans, you can always purchase some PWM fans and use a PWM splitter to control them from your CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. Plug your small pump RPM connector into a CASE_FAN or PSU_FAN header.
4. Plug direct into molex and let them run at 100% all the time. Some people like this, personally I don't but it's still an option.

Edited by Mergatroid - 7/17/12 at 9:26pm

Thanks Mergatroid. I have the Corsair 600t SE and i have both fans connected to the case's fan controller and it works great. Im fine with leaving it like that but i would rather have a fully working unit. I plugged the fans straight into the MB and they spun up to their max RPM. I will email Corsair George about my issue. Thanks for the referral.
Edited by mahiv87 - 7/17/12 at 8:58pm

Many thanks mergatroid !

Well I looked at the H70 product at amazon but didn't notice it hadn't any fans thanks for warning me

Your reply really help me make the decision to go water cooled, however I don't want to throw away the rear Haf X fan, in order to put a 120 mm.... So I guess I I will have to try and see if I can get the H80 or H60 (their at discount on a shop near me ) in any other place if not well the 140 is coming out!

Again many thanks for the reply!

I was trying to fold on my CPU for the fold-a-thon. Temp kept rising to above 62. Flipped the H60 that was exhaust to intake and dropped my temps to mid 50's while folding. "FoldingCausesYouToOptimizeSystem" FTW.

I put the 140mm in the front of my case in the drive bays

The older H70 came with fans. You may be seeing an older product that someone still has in-stock. The "H70 Core", which is the new version, is offered without fans. Also note, I should have mentioned this before, the H70 does not have a fan controller built into the block. So, you will either have to plug them direct into your PSU, or get a fan controller, or get some PWM fans and a PWM splitter so you can plug them into the CPU_FAN header on your mobo. Unless, of course, your board will control 3-pin fans.

Note that all these coolers use 120mm fans, and 120mm fan mounting holes. If you want to keep your rear fan, you may need to look into a 120mm to 140mm converter (which would work a little like a shroud). The H80 comes with two fans (for push/pull) while the H60 comes with one PWM fan that you can plug into your CPU_FAN header. Still, personally I would recommend removing the rear fan anyway. The H80 has two fans that match, and the H60...well, since it only comes with one, it's hard to say if you should dump the rear case fan or not. It's not a rad fan, so it likely won't be as good as the fan on the H60. Also, you will want to control the fans using the same source. Since the rear case fan is unlikely a PWM fan, it would be best to use a pair of 3-pin fans or a pair of PWM fans with a splitter, or just use the one 120mm PWM fan that comes with the H60. If you decide to use an H60 with 3-pin fans, you're going to have to decide how to connect them just like if you purchased an H70.

The simplest solution is to go with the H80 since it has a fan controller built in. Also note that the H100 would likely fit in your case nicely, but you'd have to lose the top case fan. You would get a few degrees more from the H100 over the H80, but it does cost a little more as well. I think the H100 would look awesome in a Haf X case. Check in the Haf X forum and ask them if anyone has used an H100 and how they like it. My roommate has a Haf X which I'm looking at now, and it looks to me like an H100 would fit beautifully right in the top. The case is so big it looks like you may be able to fit an H100 with a full push/pull setup if you wanted.