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post #21121 of 28302
"Int./Exh." - intake or exhaust. Referring to fan(s) configuration.
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post #21122 of 28302
idle temps I am getting now:



will do some p95 for an hour and post load temps.


Load temps update:

this is from running p95 small FFT for 1 hr:



fans as push, rad still horizontal for now. thermostat in the other room is reading 68F / 20C.
Edited by mtbiker033 - 9/25/12 at 8:13am
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post #21123 of 28302
Quote:
Originally Posted by _REAPER_ View Post

I am thinking about changing out my fans on my H100 from CM Excalibur to the Corsair ones does anyone have any temp comparison

Lol, there's a guy in the H80 thread thinking of dumping the Corsair H80 fans for the Excalibur fans.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1056539/corsair-h80-performance-thread/1120#post_18231339

Maybe get him to leave temps for you if he goes through the change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbiker033 View Post

thanks for the suggestions, yes for now I do plan on keeping this set-up on the test bench and will get the dual air duct accessory and mount the rad vertically:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_758&products_id=28993&zenid=30ac783e91a4c7d7a63250370f755935
and also as you suggested change the fans to push! I would probably go to push pull but will either get (4) new fans or get (2) more of the stock fans which seem to work pretty well. Is there a preferred fan suggestion for the H100?

Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).

Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.

If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatV View Post

Hahh ... were're kindred spirits of some sort? ... I've been a 49er fan through all the High's AND lows since I was a kid also, you may be too young to remember John Brodie redface.gif ... yesterday was hard to explain especially with a Harbaugh coached team, I think the substitute refs are definately effecting the integraty of the game and making it harder to prep/coach the boys up rolleyes.gif
You'll get as many fan recommendations as you will a users definition of "Fan Noise" and if in their opinion they are "Loud" or Not!? ... Initially I'd try just the 2 stock fans in a push position, especially If your going to use spacers/shrouds,. It's hard to beat the H100 stock fans for performance although many seem to complain they're too "Loud" rolleyes.gif At your overclock/temps I bet you could get away with setting them on "Low", that's what I do for my 24/7 overclock (4.6GHz) and they work fine and are not too noisey for me at that setting thumb.gif
Many of us have found for the average 24/7 overclock that a push/pull config is just overkill ... Law of diminishing returns regarding the heat exchange capacity of the H100 rad and pump/heat block, BUT it is a way to keep temps competitive with the Stock fans while making things quieter with the proper combination if too much "noise" is the concern.
I'm still curious though, what were your ambients for the above temps? I'm guessing 72-75F+ roomtemps?

He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.wink.gif
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post #21124 of 28302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Citra View Post


doh.gif
    
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post #21125 of 28302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).
Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):
http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.
If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.wink.gif

I really like that link above! BUT I take issue with "some" of his testing methodology ...
Quote: While I didn't complete the full series of tests, this was enough for me to see there is some emerging trends going on. The push vs. pull question appears to really depend on the fan power. I believe the gains in the 38mm showing more benefit in push is due to pressure and turbulence.

He's focused on max performance with the 38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze (Delta) and uses a somewhat "useless" slowspeed Yate Loon case fan (no static pressure?) for the more common 120x25mm fan/cooling tests ... So I agree with you in that seeing a 2-3c difference from a push config (no shroud) as opposed to a pull config may be a bit exaggerated, but his tests aren't representative of what a decent static pressure 120x25mm fan would show. With the right fan and setup I still feel the push config is superior even if it's only 1c possibly 2c difference (no shroud) wink.gif

No doubt 40 fans would do the trick tongue.gif ... maybe I'll take it a step further and replace my room air-conditioner with that set-up ... it would COST about the same ($400-$500) and looks "cooler"? rolleyes.gif
 
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post #21126 of 28302
I got my fan mount accessory for my lian li test bench and was able to mount my radiator vertically. the fan mount deal wasn't set up for a 2 x 120 rad, it has some random fan spacing so I had to improvise and line it up with one of the two fans then just sandwiched it on the other one.





I also ordered (4) SP120 high performance fans and am going to do a push/pull. Looks like plenty of room on the rad side for the fans to clear the sata ports and gpu's.

Much better install and cleaner.
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post #21127 of 28302
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatV View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).
Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):
http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.
If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.wink.gif

I really like that link above! BUT I take issue with "some" of his testing methodology ...
Quote: While I didn't complete the full series of tests, this was enough for me to see there is some emerging trends going on. The push vs. pull question appears to really depend on the fan power. I believe the gains in the 38mm showing more benefit in push is due to pressure and turbulence.

He's focused on max performance with the 38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze (Delta) and uses a somewhat "useless" slowspeed Yate Loon case fan (no static pressure?) for the more common 120x25mm fan/cooling tests ... So I agree with you in that seeing a 2-3c difference from a push config (no shroud) as opposed to a pull config may be a bit exaggerated, but his tests aren't representative of what a decent static pressure 120x25mm fan would show. With the right fan and setup I still feel the push config is superior even if it's only 1c possibly 2c difference (no shroud) wink.gif

No doubt 40 fans would do the trick tongue.gif ... maybe I'll take it a step further and replace my room air-conditioner with that set-up ... it would COST about the same ($400-$500) and looks "cooler"? rolleyes.gif

I think the thing to take away here is that the average loop generally has cheaper Yate Loon fans on them. There is a reason Yate Loons are sold at every performance cooling shop. They DO have reasonable Static Pressure for people who don't want to pay a king's ransom for a fan and they're cheap enough to replace should they go bad without much in the way of lost performance. I pay $4 each for mine and have never had an issue yet with them.

I'd say that doing a Review with a bank of Ultra Kaze fans on the Radiator would not be representitive of the average coolers intended loop. Not many of us wish to pay nearly $40 per fan before shipping or shipping and VAT are applied.

Was his testing perfect? Probably not but it was Representative of RL scenario imho. That's why I'll continue to link people to his reviews over many of the reviewers who get paid by the people they review for. No not everyone gets paid to review but we do know those reviewers do exist. cool.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #21128 of 28302
Got bored so tried a different layout, moved it from a rear exhaust to a roof exhaust. Actually dropped my temps surprisingly only by an average of 2C but the VRMs etc have cooled down about 6c.

As it is now

101_1931.jpg
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post #21129 of 28302
Heat rises, so I'd have to assume that performance is wasted in a rear intake or exhaust setup whereas in a rooftop Exhaust setup, it's optimal for the system to rid itself of heat. thinking.gif

I tried rear exhaust an I just didn't like it. Not even a day went by when I immediately placed it in the top of my case. The VRM will increase somewhat in temp but not enough to do harm to the system imho. I was just glad that I didn't have to remove the 200 in the top of my Case while my Mainboard was still on air. That could really have sucked due to the NB issues these boards launched with. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Crosshair IV Formula Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
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Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified EK Thermosphere GPU Block EK Thermosphere GPU Block 
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post #21130 of 28302
looks nice Step83! thumb.gif
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Easy V3
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