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post #21831 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph9994 View Post

Hi,

I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)

What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?

thanks.

the included SP120s are great for radiators.
 
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post #21832 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by opforwarrior View Post

I must have been misunderstood. Part of my confusion is in NOT being able to crash my system... no failure at max settings, so I'm just lost in the woods without "true north".

I meant to repeat other's advice to the effect :
An increase in cpu clocking, has a corresponding increase in heat.
Additionally, voltage (which increases heat) must be increased [to match the increase in clock].
As heat increases stability decreases.
As voltage is raised [ and here's where i'm having problems with some advice I have read , but can't find a link now] some "guru's" have advised raising the voltage to increase "stability", in the assumption that its the heat CAUSING the instability.
As heat increases stability decreases.

Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Obviously this is a paradox (catch.22)... and like most mysteries, is based upon misinformed expert opinion. I'm not arguing, I'm looking for a community consensus as to the rightness/wrongness of this guys thinking, becasue i'm having some problems with his logic, not defending it.

With the little i've uncovered, I was suprised to learn the low voltage on my CPU was not a bad thing ... it IS stable (i5-3570k oc 4.5ghz @ 1.08v running prime95 in the low 50's c). But my wattage is low also (45w) ... (becasue my voltage is low?... which is low,because my temps are low?)

I'm just trying to wrap my head around these variables. I've looked at the "guides" ... mostly ongoing conversations, back-slapping and a stream of acronyms I have to google... and nothing for my setup hardware/bios. I've looked at utube ... mostly shallow reviews or Intel marketing fluff **. Went to Intel... all waving hands, smoke & mirrors ... ( ***!! did a rabbit just pop out of his hat?***)


Below is a link to a review of *Intel Visual Bios ... it has screenshots of every options page, maybe you can suggest some particular settings for boosting performance?
http://techgage.com/article/intel_dz77ga-70k_motherboard_review/2/

Below is a link to a utube video review of same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpZr2khbPWQ

Below are "Intel Engineer's Dave & Greg"... whom I'd like to punch in the head.
** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9jmSari4g
*** http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/desktops/desktop-boards-cooling-overview-video.html

Intel Z77GA-70K (Intel Visual Bios*)
Intel i5-3570K
Corsair H50 Cooler (rated for 130+ tdp CPU's ... i'm pushing just a fraction ... pump speed was single biggest cooling factor in my tests, fans second, case flow 3rd)
Corsair TX 850 (kicks in the teeth of the TX 750 ... much heavier, lower % system load means less heat/fan/noise)
Corsair Vengence LP 1600 (4x4GB)
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___
Once upon a time I worked for the Apple reseller in Portland, Oregon. Also, Egghead.com (Vancouver,WA), phonesales, when they went under in 2001.

I love my toys.... I've got some old dells (Optiplex GX250-P4, Optiplex 745's-755's - c2d's), systemax c2d, (2) hp xw4400's ( I'd like to upgrades the 1.8ghz c2d's to quadcores), newer amd laptop, Apple G3,G4, (8) G5 Xserves & a tower full of network gear ... (5) 23" 'project' monitors that need new caps....

All of my Intel based machines (exept the P4 .. mx440?) run Nvida GTX 260's, 250 or 240's. After 20 years of ATI's inferior Apple vga's and worthless drivers... they lost me FOR-EVA! Don't belive? I have a dozen of them... fricken 8mb vram in 2000!!??!!. They were the reason you couln't game on the mac. Shiiii... I have equipment older than many of you wink.gif ( I threw out my lcIII, finally)
Quote:
Originally Posted by opforwarrior View Post

lol ... I WAS very calm and spent two hours reviseing it... i think your expectections might be too high. smile.gif like mine in thinking i'm going to get any simple awnsers here smile.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Ok its's stable and maybe i haven't been clear enough... i'm looking for a liitle help here.

Unmitigated heat isn't an isolated incident without consequence to the system... thermal shutdown lies at the end of that road, no? (ie, instability)

Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?

Overclocking! OK... now were are getting somewhere... using what you know of overclocking... and using the information i provided, about my bios, in my rambling monolouge above... can you give me REAL practical numbers i can start plugging in? Am I bound by my bios limitations? What are they?

Your assertion that H50 is mediocre is not proven by my results. I'm reading about others running 3570k and unable to make it stable or crash free @ 4.3ghz @ 1.25 volts. I can't get it to crash or even warm up. Tuning my fans got me 7c... forcing the mobo to runs the pump at 1400 rpm instead of the 823 rpm , gave me 10c ... neg pressure in the case... another 3c. I was running , as you say in the 70's... now 50's when oc's and running prime95. YMMV

My guess is Intel is flipping a switch behind the curtain on my settings in the auto overclock... It says full load , but not registering any real overclock. As I don't know enough to ask inteligent questions, perhaps... you can just look over the bios and give me the settings, instead of giving me a hard time, k?

Note: I was just gaming in stock mode (a :source game) ... I left the game running and checked some stats .. 23c on the processors 41c max... 17% load ... 2200ghz .. Ok.. maybe it didn't need any more power to push out 125-250 fps .. but still , how can i kick this thing in the @ss? how much power saving does a high end gaming chip need?



chat on steam?
=(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR

OK lets step back and take a breath here ... OPFORWARRIOR you remind me way back when I 1st discovered overclocking (P4 days redface.gif ) ... your a bright guy and have a very analitical/logical way of approaching tasks, and trust me it will be hard to learn/absorb all the nuances of overclocking in just a few days, (which is your nature wink.gif ) even with the now oversimplisict nature of the 1155 platform!

Like I said earlier I'm not familiar with the Intel bios' and it's OC nature. But I took a look at your Intel bios links and that's one nice looking/comprehensive bios! I think I mislead you earlier when I said to start clocking through the bios ... I should've said start MANUALLY clocking through the bios instead of using the "presets" or what we use to refer to as "software" clocking ... for starters do exactly what the guy did in the "youtube" video .... (oversimplified) manually setting the cpu multiplier to 48 (maybe start at 4.6?), disable speedstep, disable some or all of your power saving features, BUT also manually set your CPU vCore to what your max voltage is now (or bump it to 1.30-1.35v). I like to use SuperPI (1m/8m) as a quick initial stability test. When you get the hang (no pun redface.gif ) of it you will be able to "sense" instability and get an "error out" before the annoying BSOD and CMOS reset. Raise your voltage (watch load temps!) or lower your clock when this happens, until your stable???? Wow did you open a can of worms with this statement ... Quote:

Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?

NO they are not ... all depends on your "mission statement" ... is it a NASA critical "simulator" / a folding rig / or everyday gaming/general use machine? .... for me 8hrs of P95 is my general standard, and depending on the "use" and overclock I'll get away with 2hrs of Prime (20min of custom 1344FFT / 1792FFT's) 98% of the time wink.gif ... you'll know what I mean depending on how much time you put into it or how many platforms you overclock with in the future ... biggrin.gif

What to do next is a matter of taste ... keep bumping the multi and/or vCore OR start with a higher vCore (1.45v?) to find your desired multi and work vCore backwards ... if you can get to a 4.8 - 5.0GHz overclock without crashing your rig I'll personally send you a "Cookie"! biggrin.gif
Hmmmm we didn't even get to overclocking your RAM rolleyes.gif

I could write pages on this (hence OC links) and We are getting pretty far off topic for this thread ... So I would also suggest starting your own thread [HERE] ... your only challenge there is weeding out the "mis-information" and there will be some tongue.gif , but that is half the fun of sites like OCN for me in the 1st place thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deceit View Post

Hi TomcatV, thanks for your reply.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I'm not after mad max clocks, so I think I'm very happy for now. There was a bit of instability when playing some games, but I'm running offset voltage +0.005, and I had all C states enabled. I left C1E enabled (as recommended by many ppl here and other tech forums it seems), and turned off C3, C6, and Package C. Haven't had any issues with crashes or random behavior since. I thought it may have been the CPU getting random drops in voltage, when checking CPU-Z the overclocked frequency fluctuates a lot, from max 4.6ghz to around 2.0ghz to 1.6ghz (minimum). Average voltage and maximum have remained unchanged, still not seeing anything higher than 1.238vcore. Once, I saw 1.24 which was kind of weird. Anyway now I turned off most C states I don't get weird fluctuations in my frequency when the CPU is actually under load (even for a lighweight program or game). biggrin.gif

As for my ambients they are usually around 21c - 23c, sometimes lower or higher depending on if I'm feeling too cold.

But I appreciate your input and after doing a lot of reading over the past few days, it seems that although my chip is not GREAT it is pretty good for being an Ivy, I'm just happy that the voltage isn't too much. I remember when first trying the auto tuning feature on my bios, and HWMonitor was showing 1.48v, scared the **** out of me and I immediately shut off my computer after a minute or so
.

Your welcome smile.gif ... IMO your observations are "Right On"! ... for fun watch the "frequency" variations in "Real Temp" (w/high refresh) ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackerITGuy View Post

So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?
Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.

If I'm not mistaken doesn't the 2nd Gen H60 come with this fan already ... [HERE]
In any event I'd set it up stock and start from there ... how high of an OC do you want? You've got a nice case (hence good circulation) you may be surprised how well it performs at stock depending on your overclock and ambients, and it will not hurt to experiment with your case fan in the pull position wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph9994 View Post

Hi,

I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)

What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?
thanks.

Again depends on overclocks, 24/7 use etc, BUT the H100i stock fans have proven to be very efficient with both static pressure and noise levels. Most of the H100 (note: the H100i seems to be even more efficient) users have found a push/pull system is "Overkill" for the average overclock/ambients with solid case ventilation, which you'll easily achieve with the 650D thumb.gif

Trust me or search H100 push/pull within this thread ... like [HERE] wink.gif

But if you find the need or just want push/pull ... you can't go wrong just matching the SP120's that come w/the H100i. see comments above wink.gif
 
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post #21833 of 28247
Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?

Thanks and have a great day.
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post #21834 of 28247
Thanks Kizwan & TomcatV ... (is it wrong to want to kiss you both?)



Thanks for the clear logical thoughts you laid out, this gives me some data reference points to make my way along... I'll be back.
Edited by opforwarrior - 1/10/13 at 5:51pm
post #21835 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deceit View Post

Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?

Thanks and have a great day.

here are the specs i found

stock fans with H100i
Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20


Corsair Air Series
Size 120mm x 25mm
Operating Voltage 7V – 12V
Performance at 12V
Airflow 62.74 CFM
Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
Sound Level 35 dBA
Speed 2350 RPM
Power Draw 0.18 A
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post #21836 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deceit View Post

Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?

Thanks and have a great day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by qbical View Post

here are the specs i found

stock fans with H100i
Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20


Corsair Air Series
Size 120mm x 25mm
Operating Voltage 7V – 12V
Performance at 12V
Airflow 62.74 CFM
Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
Sound Level 35 dBA
Speed 2350 RPM
Power Draw 0.18 A

[/quote]

qbical is right on with the stats ... AND I also believe they are pretty much identical fans, they are just operating at different RPM's, although I have not personally had any of the new "i" series "physically" in my hands, yet wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by opforwarrior View Post

Thanks Kizwan & TomcatV ... (is it wrong to want to kiss you both?)

Thanks for the clear logical thoughts you laid out, this gives me some data reference points to make my way along... I'll be back.

No Problem wink.gif ... let us know if you start a new thread and/OR just report back here ... I see rapid success in your future Young Jedi LoL thumb.gif ... PS I'll pass on the "Barney Frank" proposition LoL redface.gif
Edited by TomcatV - 1/11/13 at 4:44pm
 
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post #21837 of 28247
I just put a H60 (a few months old but never used) in a friend's SG05 case. Case is still open so ventilation doesn't matter. Temperature is hitting 100C at 28C ambient with Intel burn test at max. CPU is i5-3470. Is this normal? I have disabled speed control for the pump's chassis fan connection and it should be running at full speed. Fans are in push-pull. I assume the pump is working because the noise level differs a lot when I change the chassis fan speed.

Edit: Ignore the above. I realized that the pump was plugged into the CPU fan, the fan was connected to the chassis fan, so that was the fan noise. Now I can't tell whether the pump is actually working or not. Temps are still hitting an unhealthy 100C, radiator feels warm to the touch but not scalding warm.
Edited by cowsgomoo - 1/11/13 at 2:09pm
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post #21838 of 28247
I used Intel Burn in test myself with my I5-3570K and I seen temps that triggered both my asus program and Intel to stop it. Im using MX4 as a thermal paste, but i think this H100 has issues.
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post #21839 of 28247
Well finally jumped in the water redface.gif
Bought a refurb H60 from Fry's for $36.

After tinkering for a couple days,I am very pleased with the results.

Here's a screen from today's bench session,with 18c ambient temp.


Even with 28c ambient CPU idles at 32c,max around 44c.

All I am running is the stock fan as intake and a TT 3,000RPM exhaust.thumb.gif
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post #21840 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zackotsu View Post

a bit disappointed with H100i..it's only been 2 weeks since i've put this thing on my rig and now out of the RGB leds, only the R and G is functioning and my B is practically dead..as in DEAD..dafuq..the performance is still ok though but common..what's the purpose of having a RGB led indicator if one of those just died like 2 weeks after installation..now i have to practically remove the bloody thing to get it RMA..i'm a bit of dismay cause i just sold my D14..wew..as of now the R and G are still working though..this just sucks..

I feel for ya man, but stuff happens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackerITGuy View Post

So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?

Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.

You could use the stock H60 fan as a push fan and your case fan would be fine as a pull fan. However I would recommend purchasing a fan that better matches the H60 fan if you can. In any case, Corsair George recommends using the fan with the higher static pressure as the push fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph9994 View Post

Hi,

I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)

What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?

thanks.

The fans that come with the H100i are pretty good fans, and you could match them up with some high static pressure fans from Corsair (the SP versions). Personally I would avoid the "silent" version. There are tons of fans out there with decent static pressure (Yate Loons, Scythe AP15) and you could even go here:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/picture/?src=/images/coolers/120mm-fan-roundup-2/01_spec_big.png

and here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread

and read up on good rad fans. Just remember, the H100(i) has a thinner rad so you may not see much benefit from push/pull. Corsair says they tested it in a lab and basically got no difference at all. Others have tested and said they only got one degree difference. Some of those tests are in this thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by js593 View Post

Anyone know if there is a Corsair rep on here? Looking for warranty information on canadian products and possible turn around time. I think my H100 is about to **** the bed.

Thanks,
Dan

Corsair George is a member here, but I think you can email him at redbeard@corsair.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowsgomoo View Post

I just put a H60 (a few months old but never used) in a friend's SG05 case. Case is still open so ventilation doesn't matter. Temperature is hitting 100C at 28C ambient with Intel burn test at max. CPU is i5-3470. Is this normal? I have disabled speed control for the pump's chassis fan connection and it should be running at full speed. Fans are in push-pull. I assume the pump is working because the noise level differs a lot when I change the chassis fan speed.

Edit: Ignore the above. I realized that the pump was plugged into the CPU fan, the fan was connected to the chassis fan, so that was the fan noise. Now I can't tell whether the pump is actually working or not. Temps are still hitting an unhealthy 100C, radiator feels warm to the touch but not scalding warm.

The most common fault in mounting these coolers is having a main board with a row of capacitors that are too close to the CPU socket. This can cause one side of the block to be out of contact with the CPU. The solution is to rotate the block 90 degrees, which usually allows the block to mount and avoid the capacitors.

Another issue to avoid is having the fans pointed in opposite directions. It may seem like an obvious thing, but people have been known to do it. Make sure they're both moving air in the same direction.

You can download and run Speedfan. It will show you the RPM of everything connected to fan headers. My H100 pump runs at 2023 RPM, but I'm not sure what the H60 runs at.

FYI guys, the thermal interface material on the newer Corsair products is made by Dow Corning, and Corsair George says it works as well as Shin Etsu, which is basically some of the best TIM you can get. You don't have to replace it.
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