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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 2199

post #21981 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

Have you tried shaking it? Many people have solved that problem by shaking. If there's air in the pump it will be noisy. If you RMA it, and there's air in the new pump it could make the same noise. If it still makes the noise after shaking, then RMA it.
I agree. Unfortunately, the computer is only used for a couple of days every few weeks, and so it gets left on the back burner. I don't even have to RMA it as the store I bought it from (Memory Express) will RMA it for me. All I have to do is remove it and take it in.

Anyone have a round toit I could borrow? It seems I never get around to it.

Next time I get it to make the noise I'll record it and take the unit out for return. Glad I kept the box and packing.
Corsair George says if you have two mismatched fans, use the one with the highest static pressure for the push fan. Also, make sure the fans are at least in the same ballpark for RPM (I would say within 1000 RPM). Frankly, if you're using an H100, you're not going to see more than a degree or two difference using push/pull anyway (if that).
You're supposed to be able to program the block colour using the Corsair Link software, but it seems some people have been having trouble with the software. Perhaps you should go to Corsair's site and check their forum before deciding.

One thing I have to say. I really like Corsair products, god knows I've bought enough of them, but even though at first I liked them, I'm not much of a fan of the big rubber hoses on the new Corsair water coolers any more. I prefer the older hoses. From what I hear, the inside diameter of the barbs in the rad hasn't changed, so personally I don't see the point of the big fat rubber hoses. I haven't checked the barb size myself, so I'm only going by what other people have said. Over the last week, I have been looking at quite a few builds using the H80i and H100i, and I think the hoses look out of place. Just my opinion of course. I do like the new blocks though.
Re: Vibrate Pad.

You mean the new fans come with an anti vibration pad that goes between the radiator and the fans? If so, it's hard to say what could solve your problem. Normally I would suggest a rubber washer, but your vibrate pads should basically be the same thing. Does the vibration noise go away if you push on the rad a little? Maybe rubber washers on the rad between the rad and the case?

If you're convinced the fans are a problem, could you narrow it to one fan or do you think both are vibrating? You could try one stock and one Noctua and see if just one fan is defective.
I have a 2500K and using Intel Burn Test, running at 4.3GHz, my system will hit about 72c after an hour of running. Your temps are excellent.
How can the Corsair link software identify how fast your fans are running if you're using your case fan controller? Wouldn't you rather use the Link software so you can control the CPU fans automatically, and use your case controller for case fans?

As for your rad fins, where are they bent? If it's where the screws mount, then don't worry about it. If it's more than that, you could unbend them by sticking a tubular tool into the fins and pushing them from the opposite side. The fins don't carry water, just the pipes do. I would suggest using a plastic tool so you don't scratch or damage anything. Perhaps a refill from a Bic pen? However, unless a lot of fins are bent, I bet it's not having any effect on your most excellent temps. Don't bother putting the stock fans back on unless you want to use the block to control them. As others have already mentioned, your temps are great. Don't forget the system would be quieter when not under load if the fans were temperature controlled, so it really depends on what you want from your cooler. If you're happy right now, then by all means leave it the way it is.

Lastly, many fan controllers limit the fan voltage to 11V instead of 12V. If your case fan controller does this, that may be why you're not reaching maximum RPM.

Never mind, I forgot I had the two rad fans plugged into the CPU Fan header as guided.
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post #21982 of 28303
Added myself.


Corsair H80i Detail by veloceracing, on Flickr


Side Shot Open by veloceracing, on Flickr


Top Shot by veloceracing, on Flickr
post #21983 of 28303
What case is that Velo ?
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post #21984 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by veloceracing View Post

Added myself.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Nice build!
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post #21985 of 28303
Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II
     
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post #21986 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedroc1999 View Post

Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II

It's good? Go look up reviews
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post #21987 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

What case is that Velo ?

It's a Mountain Mods H2Go with a large window top and an H-Window Side.

Most recent build pics are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/sets/72157632583025792/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erick Silver View Post

Nice build!

Thanks!
post #21988 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedroc1999 View Post

Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II

I have an H60. Its a decent enough cooler. Its warm in my comupter room right now and I have my GTX560SE running at 875Mhz at 100% and fan profile at 100%. Idle temps are about 35*c on my X6 1090t overclocked to 3.8Ghz. 100% load temps reach about 55*-58*C. Not too bad.

I found the best way to mount the rad is with the hoses at the bottom.

Fans should be set to intake and you can get a few more degrees of cooling with a 2 fan setup. If you have a top fan mount on your case I would recommend having a 120mm or 200mm fan placed up top set to exhaust. This way you have the hot air from the cooler immediately exhausted out the top of the case. If you have a bottom front or bottom fan mount have the fan/fans there set to intake to aid in the forcing of the hot air out the top. Yes you can set it up any way you like. But hot air has a NATURAL disposotion to rise. Why spend the energy to force it where you want when you can let physics do some of the work for you?
Edited by Erick Silver - 1/23/13 at 2:42pm
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post #21989 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erick Silver View Post

I have an H60. Its a decent enough cooler. Its warm in my comupter room right now and I have my GTX560SE running at 875Mhz at 100% and fan profile at 100%. Idle temps are about 35*c on my X6 1090t overclocked to 3.8Ghz. 100% load temps reach about 55*-58*C. Not too bad.

I found the best way to mount the rad is with the hoses at the bottom.

Fans should be set to intake and you can get a few more degrees of cooling with a 2 fan setup. If you have a top fan mount on your case I would recommend having a 120mm or 200mm fan placed up top set to exhaust. This way you have the hot air from the cooler immediately exhausted out the top of the case. If you have a bottom front or bottom fan mount have the fan/fans there set to intake to aid in the forcing of the hot air out the top. Yes you can set it up any way you like. But hot air has a NATURAL disposotion to rise. Why spend the energy to force it where you want when you can let physics do some of the work for you?

You make a lot of sense. I like the cat!!
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post #21990 of 28303
My Avatar? That was my little OCN Kitty. His name was Julius Caesar. He would sit on top of my old Dell CRT while I surfed the OCN site. He died a year ago this coming Fathers Day of Kidney Failure. He was my little computer buddy.
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