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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 2204

post #22031 of 28247
i didnt know about this thread smile.gif
post #22032 of 28247
And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.

Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!

HammeR
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Hammer-PC3
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post #22033 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjhammer View Post

And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.

Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!

HammeR

You can add your rig into your signature using the My Stuff dropdown menus in the edit mode. Makes it easier for members to reference your rig.
post #22034 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

bs on about everything in your post.
cfm means almost nothing compared to static pressure for radiator fans. less than 2h20mm is laughable making it ridiculous that you claim an h50 cooling an overclocked 3570k to be doing a max of 53*C. that is a ridiculous lie.
yes a radiator inhibits the airflow. why do you think you need high static pressure fans for cooling ?
corsair and all its brethren pumps run 100% full speed always. the pump doesnt slow down, the fans do.
there isnt a coldplate on all-in-one coolers. they consists of a combination pump/block and a radiator. youre thinking of a chiller/tec. in any type of water cooling, air blowing over the radiator is doing the cooling.
if youre only blowing 3* over ambient from the exit side of that h50 radiator, your 3570k sure as hell isnt running 30* over ambient, unless of course youre overclocked up to the turbo and no further. some people with de-lidded 3570k and better than an old h50 are getting higher temps. furthermore, its impossible for you to be blowing 3*(lol) over ambient into the case and air exiting the case to be only 1* or even 2* over ambient.

maybe you should have read some posts in this thread from owners of a real 3570k.

"Inconceivable !!"
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 80


"pc-illiterate" ?, I find people who celebrate ignorance, usually have good reason.

All the stuff you "know" seems to be a real burden for you. I'd respond to each item individually... but, what a mess... noone would be able to tell which one of us was the "crazy".

I think your just mad cause i hit a nerve. You're the guy running all around... spreading fertilizer ... pissing in the pool.

Maybe i'm too old, but, I never understood the "balls" some of you turds grow when you think you're anonymous. I promise, you wouldn't be spouting off , If you were 3 feet in front of me. When you stand in front of an ADULT and call him a liar... be prepared to spit out teeth.

I have NO reason to lie.... why accuse me of lying when I can so easily prove it? You didn't think this through all the way... When I have time ... i'll make a vid for you to choke on...

I tremble in anticipation of your further responses.
Edited by opforwarrior - 1/26/13 at 10:15pm
post #22035 of 28247
I am not able to throttle my pump speeds on my h80, it is physically impossible, the power to run the pump comes grin the molex, not the 3pin, in fact the pump won't start up if you don't have the molted plugged in, however it will if you don't have the the pin, the corsair h80 UN modified, well run the pump at 100% all day long, as it is supposed to
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post #22036 of 28247
Eureka!


A breakthrough at 3 am! MY 1st BSOD! Now i have a start point.

I found a reference in a MOBO review, to Intel's EXTREME TUNING UTILITY... allowing changes in windows and a providing a testing platform... It simplified the options down to just a few variables... the firmware bios was not easy to breakdown. After seeing how the voltage corresponded to oc and getting a handle on the proprotions ... The discriptors were different than you all have been using...

Here's where it gets interesting. In my 1st OC experiments, I was unable to go higher than 45w.

Looking back over the realtemp screen cap from 2 weeks ago... NOBODY noticed I was clocking 3.4ghz (? stock 3.8ghz!) when it was supposed to be oc'd to 4.5ghz (in bios firmware).




Intel's Extreme Tuning software allowed me realtime observing: The ATB (Additional Turbo Boost) was insufficient(?) to drive the OC and it was defaulting down to 3.4Ghz (x34). With proper ATB the OC worked. All other voltages scaled dynamicly automaticly.



I adjusted oc from stock 3.8ghz (x38) upward to 4.6ghz increasing ONLY the ADDITIONAL TURBO BOOST by a factor of 20mV at 0.1 ghz of OC(stable); 80mV at 0.6 ghz OC(stable); 101mV at 0.8ghz (unstable?).



Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c.


I ran some stress tests for at least 10 min... prime 95 programm crashed after 2 hrs... but no BSOD... i'll play with the voltage some more. I tuned down to 4.4ghz and applied these voltages in firmware bios. Is CPU 1.32v normal? Additional Turbo Voltage is 78.125 mV . Intel suggested the values at this OC.


Current Build

Core i-5 3570K CPU
Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB
Corsair TX850 PSU
Antec 902 Case

Proof

23c Ambient


Ram OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Intake OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Exhaust OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Top Fan OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load (idles at 26c)


For the Prime test I increased the top fan speed, to draw off the ram heat. And decreased the front HDD fans (30%) for noise control.
Additionally...The Vid Card fan was idling @ 30%... the PSU fan is not running(exhaust) at load, but, is passive cooling (reverse) into the case (@28c).


Edited by opforwarrior - 1/27/13 at 12:54pm
post #22037 of 28247
wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...
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post #22038 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...
lol? His temps are fine.
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post #22039 of 28247
What is wrong with his temps?
post #22040 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post


Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question. This is my first build and overclock, and I am old, so please forgive my ignorance.

As you can see from my rig I have a Corsair H100i cpu cooler.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
From reading posts about it, I can see that there are people having some trouble with this particular model. I have mine working reasonably well, but I have done a number of things that I am not sure are right or the best way to go about it.

The stock fans that come with the H100i were too loud so I replaced them with two Noctua NF-P12 fans pulling air down. They only run at about 1300 rpm so the chip runs a touch hotter but I don't care because of how much quieter they are. Since these fans just seemed to be maxed out all the time with Corsair Link 2.2, and I don't change the LED color often, I started to wonder why I had it all installed.

I set the LED color I wanted, uninstalled Corsair Link, and plugged the two NF-P12 fans directly into the motherboard slots for cpu fan and cpu opt fan. Then I was able to remove the usb cord and fan leads from the H100i pump, and just have the SATA power line plugged in now.

I am not excited about my temps: 3770k, 1.29v, 4600mhz, Prime95 max 84c, gaming max 60c in a 75F (23.9c) room, but they seem livable for 247 use.

Much cleaner and simpler now, but is this the best way to go? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Nice Build "Oldman" wink.gif ... Yes your running hotter (appx +10c) then many other similar setups ...
See HERE [3770K@4.5GHz 1.3v 74F/25c Ambients LinX Load 75c note: "open bench" setup] and this also reflects many other members results. 3 things come to mind ...

1) That was a heck of a case in it's day AND still is if properly setup. But at stock with only 2-120mm fans (front intake/ rear exhaust) You very well may have a case air circulation problem? With your pull/intake setup it's adding overall heat to your system. AND more important is that top grill (and filter?) restricting fresh air intake? Try it in a "push config, try removing the grill restriction, do a test with the side cover removed and the radiator unrestricted outside the case to eliminate/confirm it's an airflow problem ...

2)Try remounting (make sure to check even distribution of TIM). Try rotating the block 90 degrees to make sure your clearing mobo capacitors ... this has caught many experienced builders offguard as visually it looks OK, but uneven TIM distribution is a dead give away.

3) You may just have one of the poorer IHS consructed Ivy Bridge CPU's (see earlier posts) and/or one of the lesser overclocking potential cpu's ... it happens mad.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by azra187 View Post

Hey all! I’ve been researching for the last month which Corsair CLC system to buy and have found a lot of conflicting information. I wanted to put this out there on the overclock.net, corsair, and ROG forums to see what the users, moderators, and (maybe if I’m lucky to get a response from Yellowbeard or Ramguy) the manufacturer have to say.

Here’s my specs:

Intel Core i5 3570k
ASUS Maximus Gene V
eVGA 660 Signature2 OC edition
2x8gb G.Skill Ares 1600 RAM
Apevia QPack2 case
Ambient temps are around 21 degrees Celcius

I’m currently using the stock Intel fan and get temps of about 88 degrees Celsius when running Prime95. I have the processor overclocked to 4.2ghz with -0.01 offset voltage, which raises the temperature to about 91. Obviously that’s way too high. For now, however, I’m ok to keep it overclocked at 4.2 as the processor doesn’t usually go above 65 degrees when gaming. I would like to get it to 4.5ghz, but want to get a better cooler first.

Your Apevia case will always be a challenge with higher OC's and cooling, not to mention that stock 500w PSU will be the main suspect should BSOD's start to occur with even mid-range OC's especially in an overheated case! Sooo if a case/PSU upgrade isn't in the near future for more serious overclocking and your using this rig mainly for gaming you'd be fine with either the H55 or H60. Especially since you won't notice much of a difference in gaming with a 4.2 vs 4.5 OC! The 2nd gen H60 is a better unit, many are puzzled why Corsair didn't differentiat it from the original with a H60i or H65 designation. Something was wrong with Dustin's tests [HERE] that day as even the H100i tests were all out of whack and not consistent with his previous stellar reviews like [HERE]I'd go with the "HardOCP" review comparing the 2.

NOW if other upgrades are in your near future and you want to eliminate cooling as a restriction to higher overclocks, I'd go with the H80i (externally mounted in the back?) or I think it would look cool to mod an H100i into the right side panel in an exhaust config which would also help with the extremely poor case air circulation (note: reverse the rear 120mm from exhaust-->intake). The H100i will outperform the H80i "exponentially" as the demand/stress gets higher. What's the worst that could happen? rolleyes.gif You get frustrated with the Apevia/500w PSU and upgrade with more serious overclocking in mind and your ready to go with the H100i ... ALTHOUGH since your not so concerned with $$$ ... I'd take a serious look at the Swiftech 220 that "pc-illiterate" linked for only $20 more ... the "Quality" and "expansion" potential is unmatched IMHO! More "Color" comments below biggrin.gif


I would like to get a CLC as my case can only fit a CPU fan up to 76 mm in height. I’ll need to mod the case to fit the rad, which will be mounted on the outside of the case. I can’t imagine that I’ll be able to do anything other than an exhaust setup. There is a similar build below:

http://www.pctechadvice.com/gallery/computer-builds-spartacus/

You can kind of see in picture 16 the holes that will need to be cut. I also plan to cut out the plate covering the fan for extra airflow. I have an 80 mm fan in the front of the chassis pulling air into the case.
I’d prefer NOT to use corsair link for two reasons: 1.) I’d like to keep the number of cables in my case to a minimum, and 2.) it doesn’t seem that stable yet.

But which fan to buy? Here are a couple examples of the conflicting information:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6530/closing-the-loop-contained-liquidcoolers-from-corsair-and-nzxt-compared

Anandtech shows the H55 beating the H60 by about 3 degrees. They attribute this to a better waterblock:

Something is amiss with Dustin's review (see above), I also don't believe the H55 block is superior to the 2nd gen (2013) H60, that's a question for Corsair George?

“Unfortunately, part of the reason the H55 looks so good is because the H60 performs so poorly. The H60 runs $10 more than the H55 for an arguably better PWM-controlled fan and a somewhat lesser quality waterblock. In this corner of the market, there's really no legitimate reason to spend up on the H60 when the H55 performs as well or better for less.”

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/12/03/new_corsair_h60_h55_cpu_liquid_coolers_review/1

Hard OCP shows the H60 beating the H55 by about 2-4 degrees when overclocked. They also attribute this to a better waterblock:

“It is able to best the original by about two degrees which is impressive considering it uses the same radiator and pump, so surely this points to a more efficient coldplate design.”

I believe this makes more sense and is more Accurate!

Hard to decide which one! For the sake of argument, let’s ignore cost. They are all pretty close to each other in price and $50 one way or another is not going to persuade me. I do care about noise level. I have come up with some questions that will help me decide:

1. Does the H55 or H60 have the better waterblock? Agree w/HardOCP
2. With a mild overclock (4.2-4.5), is a H55 or H60 enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient when running Prime95? Maybe@4.2 / I doubt it @ 4.5GHz
3. From the pics and reviews, the waterblock on the H60 seems much easier to install. Is that correct? They are all pretty simple wink.gif
4. Are the H50 and H55 consistently ranked higher than any of the other coolers just because they are cheaper? Define 'Ranking" /$$$ yes /performance NO WAY!
5. Is a 27mm radiator too thin to benefit from a push/pull configuration? Usually / depends on setup/case/fans/ambients/how high of an OC?
6. If a 27mm radiator does benefit from the push/pull, would it be enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient? NO redface.gif
7. Can you run a H80i without CorsairLink? YES biggrin.gif
8. Would a H90 with a 140>120mm adapter work (essentially acting as a shroud)? Yes
9. Do the preliminary tests for the H90 show it works better than the H80i? Yes IMO 3-5c cooler and Quieter! biggrin.gif BUT if it costs as much as the Swiftech220 ($140) I'd mod/GO w/that!

Side-issue – I have a 3-pin 120 mm case fan. I’ve noticed my RPM’s are not consistent. Does that mean my motherboard is modulating the voltage?How inconsistant? 50-100rpm? is OK If so, is there really any advantage to PWM fans? PWM fans are just more versatile for control / Depends on your mobo's bios features and how many fans you want to control / that's a pretty versatile mobo with good fan control features Based on Anandtech’s radiator fan review and the fact that they match my system, I’ll most likely swap out any stock fans for the Enermax Magma fans – the ones on FrozenCPU are red and black.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/7

Seriously consider upgrading your case/PSU, I think you'll be much happier in the long run as your Overclocking skills expand, we didn't even discuss GPU OC's heat/stress which will show greater benefits in gaming than a cpu OC will wink.gif

I really appreciate the information these forums contain. Hopefully this post will help others asking the same questions.

Thanks,
<----Azra----<<

COMMENTS IN "COLOR" (GREEN?) ABOVE

Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

but the swiftech h220 will be shipping in 5 weeks or less biggrin.gif

Nice Link! This is a serious contender thumb.gif
"All copper/brass" thumb.gif... Expandability, robust PWM Pump etc etc ... thumb.gif
All at $140! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjhammer View Post

And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.

Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!

HammeR

Welcome ... you jumped in at a pretty lively/spirited phase of this thread biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by opforwarrior View Post

Eureka!

A breakthrough at 3 am! MY 1st BSOD! Now i have a start point. I found a reference in a MOBO review, to Intel's EXTREME TUNING UTILITY... allowing changes in windows and a testing platform... It simplified the options down to just a few variables... the firmware bios was not easy to breakdown. After seeing how the voltage corosponded to oc and getting a handle on the proprotions ... The discriptors were different than you all have been using...

Here's where it gets interesting. In my 1st OC experiments, I was unable to go higher than 45w.
Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Looking back over the realtemp screen cap... nobody noticed i was clocking 3.4ghz when it was supposed to be oc'd (in bios firmware).




Intel's Extreme Tuning software allowed me realtime observing: The ATB (Additional Turbo Boost) was insufficient to drive the OC and it was defaulting down to 3.4Ghz (x34). With proper ATB the OC worked. All other voltages scalaed dynamicly automaticly.



I adjusted oc from stock 3.8ghz (x38) upward to 4.6ghz increasing ONLY the ADDITIONAL TURBO BOOST by a factor of 20+/- millivolts per .1 ghz of OC.



Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c.


I ran some stress tests for at least 10 min... prime 95 programm crashed after 2 hrs... but no BSOD... i'll play with the voltage some more. I applied these voltages in firmware bios.

Current Build

Core i-5 3570K CPU
Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB (RST & READYBOOST Partitions)
Corsair TX850 PSU
Antec 902 Case

Proof
For the Prime test I increased the top fan speed, to draw off the ram heat.


23c ambiant




Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...

Eureka is Right wink.gif My apologies for not being "clearer?" earlier, my unfamiliararity with Intel's UEFI. But you have now discovered the point I was trying to make that your loads (45w) just didn't make sense with any overclock setting rolleyes.gif Sometimes don't you just wish you could pick up the phone LoL redface.gif
Now that your at 80w / 1.352v and 79c "core" load temps I'd say your H50 is performing right to "spec" ...
Try running IBT (Intel Burn Test) and you'll definately see the limits of the H50 many have echoed here before ... by the way you owe me a "cookie" (1st BSOD) ... LoL biggrin.gif
Edited by TomcatV - 1/27/13 at 2:35pm
 
Too Easy
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2500K@4.6 24/7 ASRock Z68 Ext4 Gen3 (bios 1.10) Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti 1532/8002 24/7 Bios modded GSkill F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL 1.54v 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 850 Evo 500GB 1T Samsung F3-storage Asus 24x H100 top exhaust (push/pull kinda?) 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Win7-64bit SP1  QNIX QX2710 "Glossy" 1440p@120Hz++ (1st gen L02... Overlord 27" Glossy 1440p@120Hz Corsair K65 RGB Cherry Red 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX850w Haf 922 (modded) Logitech G502 Rocketfish Speed 
Audio
Sound Blaster Z w/ Logitech Z680 5.1 Speakers  
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Too Easy
(17 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
6700K 47/44GHz@1.296v or 48/45@1.360v Adaptive ... Z170 ASUS HERO VIII LGA 1151 (Bios 2202) Evga GTX 1080 SC "SOLD $525" no bios editor! Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti 1519/8002 24/7 Bios modded! 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
TridentZ 3600 15-15-15-36-1T [F4-3600C16D-16GTZ ] Samsung Evo SSD 500GB (boot) Crucial MX300 SSD 1TB (storage) Kraken X61  
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Win10 64bit (sucks) Overlord 27" "Glossy" 1440p@120Hz QNIX QX2710 "Glossy" 1440p@120Hz+  Corsair K65 RGB Cherry Red 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 Platinum NZXT H440 (Hate it!) Logitech G502 / Razer Deathader Rocketfish "Speed" 
Audio
Sound Blaster Z w/ Logitech Z680 5.1 Speakers  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500K@4.6 24/7 ASRock Z68 Ext4 Gen3 (bios 1.10) Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti 1532/8002 24/7 Bios modded GSkill F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL 1.54v 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 850 Evo 500GB 1T Samsung F3-storage Asus 24x H100 top exhaust (push/pull kinda?) 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Win7-64bit SP1  QNIX QX2710 "Glossy" 1440p@120Hz++ (1st gen L02... Overlord 27" Glossy 1440p@120Hz Corsair K65 RGB Cherry Red 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX850w Haf 922 (modded) Logitech G502 Rocketfish Speed 
Audio
Sound Blaster Z w/ Logitech Z680 5.1 Speakers  
  hide details  
Reply
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