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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 222

post #2211 of 28251
The res is so the loop holds more liquid than the standard h50 loop. This allows more water to circulate so its not using a smaller amount more often cycling it through.
Plus its also there to keep air bubbles out of the pump, you can bleed it, and refill if youd like.

Quick question too: I know to use distilled water, but do you need to add any algea presenter or anything else?
Edited by tlxxxsracer - 1/22/10 at 6:31pm
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post #2212 of 28251
Updated fan test post with tests of CoolerMaster R4.

Fan Tests
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post #2213 of 28251
Willhemmens: i know you used 8mmID and 10mm OD. Where did you get that, and what brand tubing? Because standard isnt the same as metric. Did you get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ID? I can only guess its between 1/4 and 3/8, but which ever one you choose wont have the near 10mm OD

1/4"=6.35mm
3/8"=9.52mm
1/2"=12.7mm

the tubing thats 3/8"ID only comes in 1/2"OD. The only tubing Ive found with 1/4"ID only had 3/8"OD. I dont want something to be the wrong size and when I got to fit it, the tubes are too big for the pump. And I dont want the 6mm tubes because that constricts the waterflow.

I apologize if Im flooding the fourm.
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post #2214 of 28251



BAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

I still think it would be awesome to paint my tubes fluorescent red/orange!
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post #2215 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by looser101 View Post
Updated fan test post with tests of CoolerMaster R4.

Fan Tests
Thanks for the updates bud. Yeah, it looks like the R4's in your tests kept the CPU a hair cooler during the tests, but, didn't look like anything to go crazy about. I would imagine it may have been the extra 150 rpm's per fan, compared to the GT's. The high pitch sound from the one without the shroud is odd, might be because of the fan blade design? Also, interesting to note that I didn't see much difference in temps between the single shroud on the push vs pull side with those fans. Do you still have your GT's? If so, can you do the same thing that you did with your R4 tests (without shroud, single shroud, etc).

Thanks for taking the time to run the tests and share your results with us. +rep
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post #2216 of 28251
My fan died, yay.. still spins but no air.

As a temp fix until I get some good fans in, is it more important for a stronger fan on the push side or pull side? Still want 2 fans there..
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post #2217 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmisery View Post
Thanks for the updates bud. Yeah, it looks like the R4's in your tests kept the CPU a hair cooler during the tests, but, didn't look like anything to go crazy about. I would imagine it may have been the extra 150 rpm's per fan, compared to the GT's. The high pitch sound from the one without the shroud is odd, might be because of the fan blade design? Also, interesting to note that I didn't see much difference in temps between the single shroud on the push vs pull side with those fans. Do you still have your GT's? If so, can you do the same thing that you did with your R4 tests (without shroud, single shroud, etc).

Thanks for taking the time to run the tests and share your results with us. +rep
I also think the sound is from the fan blades, which are curved and cupped. Interestingly enough it does it only when the pull fan is against the rad. I recommend the shroud on the pull fan just to quiet it down. Any performance differences are negligible. The GT's are still my favorites. I'll do a full test as soon as I get a chance. The SanAce is so annoying it might end up being a 38mm shroud.
Edited by looser101 - 1/23/10 at 5:31am
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post #2218 of 28251


Add me to the list plz

idle temps are at 35C and full load temps are at 50C!!

doing the push pull setup and it works great!


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post #2219 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlxxxsracer View Post
Willhemmens: i know you used 8mmID and 10mm OD. Where did you get that, and what brand tubing? Because standard isnt the same as metric. Did you get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ID? I can only guess its between 1/4 and 3/8, but which ever one you choose wont have the near 10mm OD

1/4"=6.35mm
3/8"=9.52mm
1/2"=12.7mm

the tubing thats 3/8"ID only comes in 1/2"OD. The only tubing Ive found with 1/4"ID only had 3/8"OD. I dont want something to be the wrong size and when I got to fit it, the tubes are too big for the pump. And I dont want the 6mm tubes because that constricts the waterflow.

I apologize if Im flooding the fourm.
It's 1/4" Inner Diameter and 3/8" Outer Diameter (what I got from HD).

It won't be any more "constrictive" than the stock setup with that sizing.

Think more about what the pump can push and how well your radiator can cool

I'm actually going to be switching to 3/8" INNER DIAMETER tubing though, because my Maximus Extreme board has 3/8" Outlets So either I swap tubing, or find an adapter.

Of course, I'll do it right eventually.. But I want it now, so I'll just order what I need cuz MicroCenter doesn't have it.

Pics and Tutorial to come.
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post #2220 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlxxxsracer View Post
The res is so the loop holds more liquid than the standard h50 loop. This allows more water to circulate so its not using a smaller amount more often cycling it through.
Plus its also there to keep air bubbles out of the pump, you can bleed it, and refill if youd like.

Quick question too: I know to use distilled water, but do you need to add any algea presenter or anything else?
Ya, I know what a res is for. Considering their such small res's, the gain is minimal. No air bubbles=closed loop. No evaporation=closed loop. No maintenance=closed loop.
Edited by dkev - 1/22/10 at 9:14pm
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