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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 228

post #2271 of 28252
Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use 3/8"ID-1/2"OD Tubing WITHOUT WORRY of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!

1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a SPACE FILLER over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing OVER the OUTSIDE of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a LEAK PROOF SEAL combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest



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post #2272 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by DE619 View Post
Also dkev what are your temps like since I'm most likely gonna mimic your setup?
21 idle and 29 under load. But your not gonna get anywhere near that with an I7. For you I would recommend R4's or high speed slipstreams. Don't use anything under 1600 rpm. 2K rpm would be best. I7's just get too hot to monkey around. From what others seem to get, I'd say for you 40ish idle and 60ish load.
post #2273 of 28252
I'm very interested if, in general, everyone is using a 3 pin to molex adapter and connecting the pump directly to the PSU or is using a case fan 3 pin connection to the MB the preferred route? My thinking is that the pump needs to be working at 100% so there is no need for speed control. Is that right? Comments are welcome - my 1st build is going to start soon!

BTW - the comments on fan optimization with the radiator are a blast. Excellent ideas on getting more out of a great product.
post #2274 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin B View Post
I'm very interested if, in general, everyone is using a 3 pin to molex adapter and connecting the pump directly to the PSU or is using a case fan 3 pin connection to the MB the preferred route? My thinking is that the pump needs to be working at 100% so there is no need for speed control. Is that right? Comments are welcome - my 1st build is going to start soon!

BTW - the comments on fan optimization with the radiator are a blast. Excellent ideas on getting more out of a great product.
Hi Martin. That's exactly right. You should have the pump working at 100% all the time. You can do this by either plugging it directly into the PSU or you can plug the 3-pin connector to the motherboard, just remember to go into BIOS and set it to manual control, and adjust it to 100%. Looking forward to seeing some pics when you get it all hooked up!
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post #2275 of 28252
Do you guys think my CM R4 should be replace with some UK3000s?

I could replace my stock 2xintakes with these 2x CM R4s, and add the Ultra Kaze 3000's to my push/pull set up.

Picture with the LEDs off


Picture of my airflow:
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post #2276 of 28252

Just to help out those who are modding their H50 and going with the fatter tubing.

I personally don't think it will really lower temps buy any measurable gains... i mean the rad and block use 1/4inch barbs and using larger diameter tubes isn't going to change this fact.

here is a very interesting thread on the impact of the tubing size. difference between 1/4inch and 1/2inch was less then 1c.

So in my opinion you might save yourself some trouble by sticking with 1/4inch since its the right size for the h50 and you can order 1/4inch barbs for the res for less then $5.

Just some food for thought.

edit: also here a video of my modded h50 fully finished and installed in my case.


Edited by sexybastard - 1/24/10 at 2:58am
post #2277 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbalest View Post
Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use 3/8"ID-1/2"OD Tubing WITHOUT WORRY of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!

1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a SPACE FILLER over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing OVER the OUTSIDE of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a LEAK PROOF SEAL combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest
I recomend those types of clamps on any water cooling set up. I've never had a leak using those.
post #2278 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbalest View Post
Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use 3/8"ID-1/2"OD Tubing WITHOUT WORRY of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!

1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a SPACE FILLER over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing OVER the OUTSIDE of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a LEAK PROOF SEAL combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest
Doint this mod on rad is quite easy, the problem will make how to fit on the barbs on the pump since the space between the two barbs are small and using 1/4 and then 1/2 will not leave u space for clamps or not even a zip ite. There is just no way u can fit them there. I have already tried using 1/2.
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post #2279 of 28252
NICE WORK sexybastard love your case
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post #2280 of 28252
add me i got one last week, more than impressed with it
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