Originally Posted by Mergatroid Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Weather you use the top radiator as intake or exhaust really doesn't matter. I have tested this myself using an H70 and a 600T case, and I literally got a ~1c+ difference in CPU temps after running three hours.
If you use intake, you may slightly increase the temperature inside your case (in my particular tests I did not get any temp difference on my chipset or my video cards).
However, one thing is for sure, if you use your radiator as intake you will be drawing more dust through the rad, requiring cleanings more often (you can see a good example of a non-filtered intake rad getting plugged up in this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/6230#post_8894561
) but that is an extreme example.
Again, in my particular case, my Corsair 600T has dust filters on the front, so using my top mounted H100 as exhaust allows me to go months without cleaning it, and even then there's hardly any dust at all in the rad.
Corsair George actually mentions that you should consider your video card cooler type when you decide on your airflow. If you have a card that exhausts all its air out the back of the case (blower type), then using your top-mounted H100 as exhaust is fine. You may want to think about it a little harder if your video card is the radial type that blows hot exhaust inside the case. You may not want to draw that hot gpu air through your rad.
Here is a link:
Generally speaking, most people (including myself) use a front bottom to rear top airflow, but there's no law saying you have to. George even suggests that a top to bottom front airflow can improve temps if you're using a radial style cooler on your video card.
Lastly, don't worry about anyone telling you that you're "fighting the natural tendency of hot air to rise" if you decide on an unusual airflow design. The force making warm air rise is so weak compared to the pressure of case fans that it is easily overcome.
Couldn't have said it better ... but you already knew that
And that last link is the one that also changed my "Physics" philosophy of "Hot Air" (pun) and case ventilation almost 2 years ago ... +R and tagged for future referrals
Originally Posted by GeneratorJ
I guess its true, the residual heat being produced is not that much, compared to the air flow pressure.
I got to be honest, when I was just reading your post, I wasn't convince lol. But after reading that and thinking about it. It's quite reasonable
I know how you feel, same thing a couple years back for me ... "Science"
Originally Posted by BangBangPlay Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I agree with Generator. I have my Corsair H100i setup as exhaust and have the rest of my fans as intake. This seems to offer the best overall case temps. Changing it didn't change CPU temps much, but it did make other motherboard components run hotter according to the Thermal Radar software of my Asus Gryphon motherboard. It has several sensors around the board that monitor surface temps, and I use some of them to control my fans (mainly CPU, RAM, and PCIe sensors). Also make sure your rear fan (or whichever is closest) doesn't rob air from your H100. This is why I actually use my rear fan as an intake, to supply the rad with cool air from outside the case as well. The air exiting the system from the top isn't that warm, even at heavy load.
Any of you using the stock fans with your H100i, or similar Corsair cooler? I would strongly recommend changing them to aftermarket fans, preferably PWM (for compatibility). A few weeks ago one of the SP120 high performance PWM fans that I use on the H100i started to make a ticking noise. The noise would rise and fall with the changing RPMS and was very annoying and distracting. It wasn't the firmware (as others suggested in another thread) because I hook my fans directly to the MB headers and control them with Fan Expert/Thermal Radar. It only effected one fan but I had to RMA both because I had purchased them as a set.
Well I mounted the stock fans temporarily and I was amazed at the difference in sound. Although the stock fans look exactly like the SP120s (without the colorful ring) they are certainly different on the inside. I had been lead to believe that they would be nearly the same, and some people even claimed that they may be better than most aftermarket models. The stock fans make a much higher pitched noise than the SP120s and they are audible at much lower rpms. At idle I can't hear the 120s (900rpms), but the stock fans are clearly audible at the same curve. During CPU stress testing they sound like a jet engine, and were almost worse than the ticking noise the broken SP120 was making. The SP120s aren't perfect and they become audible as the load increases, but the sound is much lower pitched. As far as cooling is concerned they are nearly the same, but the stock fans need slightly higher rpms (or a more aggressive fan curve). So not only are they nosier, but they need to be set slightly higher to achieve the same cooling efficiency. Mounting the stock fans really made me appreciate and miss the SP120s. The replacements came in yesterday and my computer is back to being relatively quiet and cool.
I only brought this up because I saw some people post comments (on PC part picker) that the stock fans are basically the same as the Corsair SP series, and that is just false. I also know that some people have claimed that aftermarket fans won't work with some Corsair closed loop water coolers, but you can always hook the fans into your MB headers, or a fan controller and bypass the Corsair link. I know most of you here are most likely not using the stock fans and I am preaching to the choir. To those of you that haven't upgraded I recommend that you do...
Very insightful, AND most importantly Believable! To be honest I was one of those who believed they were essentially the same fans but setup with differing RPM profiles
Originally Posted by CannedBullets
Well I don't need to change backplates for the H80i on AMD systems. So would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU and get it screwed in before I screw the radiator in? I'm thinking it might be easier because the waterblock should be easier to handle when the radiator isn't screwed in.
I always mount the CPU block last, either way will work, but if you change out chips, CPU(s) or even reapply your TIM you can see why it's a good habit to do it this way
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate
really? you havent overclocked? i have always been able to use my puters as small heaters. i warm up the pc room enough to close the heater vents in the winter and need better a/c in the summer.
Originally Posted by Devildog83
Here is what mine looks like now. I am having trouble with the LED's like a lot of folks. Does anyone think Corsair would RMA this with a red paint job? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Nice looking rig/paint job
Normally RMA's are a swap out ... But I don't see why they wouldn't at least repair your unit (for free) if you ask them and explain the custom paint job, but turnaround time may take longer
Originally Posted by DarkangelZ
So last night I swapped out the stock H100 fan's; which where my intake fans atm, for the SP120 HP verisons; which were just added last week as my exhaust fans. So now I'm running SP 120 HP's for intake and exhaust on my H100. Here are some pics from last night.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Those dust bunnies were about about 2years of use. Looks like need to clean more often >.>
That I suspect is a Top/Intake setup
... and I'm curious if you came to the same conclusions (performance/noise) as BangBangPlay above? Even though your H100 stock fans are considerably different than his H100i stock fans.
Hey just saw your debezelling photo's do you have a link with more details of what exactly you did and how much you gained ... looks awesome but pics can be deceiving.Edited by TomcatV - 7/25/13 at 1:24pm