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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 2772

post #27711 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen87 View Post

I have been eyeing a h80i v2 the past couple weeks. It is possible to run everything off the Mobo? I been running Linux mainly and I won't have access to the software.

Yeah, I run my H110i GT without Link just off the mobo. Plug pump header into a chasis fan header(it only have 1 wire so it will run full capacity no matter what) and both fans into 4 pin PWM headers(one of them have to go in the CPU fan header, the SATA power cable for the pump is still connected of course. my M8Ranger Mobo have a dedicated 3 pin for pump and 2 4 pin for CPU so it was rather easy.
Edited by sherlock - 8/5/16 at 4:00pm
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post #27712 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen87 View Post

I have been eyeing a h80i v2 the past couple weeks. It is possible to run everything off the Mobo? I been running Linux mainly and I won't have access to the software.

While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.
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post #27713 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by LikesToSlide View Post

While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.

I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?

So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?
post #27714 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdonedge View Post

I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?

So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?
Same, I figured pump to cpu header on full and fans to 2 other own headers (if available)?
Is it cool to use a splitter of a Mobo fan header for the 2 fans?
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post #27715 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdonedge View Post

I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?

So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?

I chose to use something like this molex fan connector, disable my mainboard alert for cpu fan, and enable my mainboard alert for cpu temperature. But I'm being overly cautious doing it this way. Most likely you could follow Corsair's advice and be just fine.
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post #27716 of 28394
Ok, Gotta Question for a Corsair Rep..

So I Bought an H100 on 2/9/2013, From NewEgg (Corsair CWCH100)

I'm not sure what the warranty period/terms are as NewEgg and other E-Tailers show different amount of yrs

Earlier This Year, The Pump Failed (Unit was Lit up and Fans were Running), but CPU Temp out of no where began to rise at Idle and eventually hit the cut off temp for the Safety Feature of the Mainboard.

This turned the supplied TIM into Cement pretty much, and we had to carefully lift the CPU out of the socket while cemented to the Waterblock.

So Now I Have a Dysfunct H100, with a AMD FX8120 Stuck to it.

What Are my options if any via warranty services?

I also have another H100 that the LED Quit working on, and the CPU Temps on that Unit have slowly begun to rise, I'm guessing the Fluid Levels are declining or the pump is failing etc.
This unit is about 1 yr older, bought from tiger direct on 01/22/2012. (Corsair CWCH100)
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post #27717 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkateZilla View Post

Ok, Gotta Question for a Corsair Rep..

So I Bought an H100 on 2/9/2013, From NewEgg (Corsair CWCH100)

I'm not sure what the warranty period/terms are as NewEgg and other E-Tailers show different amount of yrs

Earlier This Year, The Pump Failed (Unit was Lit up and Fans were Running), but CPU Temp out of no where began to rise at Idle and eventually hit the cut off temp for the Safety Feature of the Mainboard.

This turned the supplied TIM into Cement pretty much, and we had to carefully lift the CPU out of the socket while cemented to the Waterblock.

So Now I Have a Dysfunct H100, with a AMD FX8120 Stuck to it.

What Are my options if any via warranty services?

I also have another H100 that the LED Quit working on, and the CPU Temps on that Unit have slowly begun to rise, I'm guessing the Fluid Levels are declining or the pump is failing etc.
This unit is about 1 yr older, bought from tiger direct on 01/22/2012. (Corsair CWCH100)

I feel like you could pry that CPU off with a knife if you're careful
post #27718 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdonedge View Post

I feel like you could pry that CPU off with a knife if you're careful

We tried for 9 hours, no dice, with moderate force (not trying to destroy the chip).

Even used QTip to Put Artic Clean Solution on the surface to breakdown the TIM, and tried using Floss, didnt work either, wouldnt budge, floss couldnt get under it to separate, it sealed off every edge nicely when it solidified, not even with a rubber grip pip wrench, exacto knife, etc.

The Substrate Package has likely cracked from IHS when we pulled it off to save the mainboard, as the locking mech was underneath the water block, we had to slowly pull it out of the socket without unclamping it.


It was an 8100 Series FX Chip, so it's no big loss, but I was looking at any options to save some investment.
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post #27719 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkateZilla View Post

We tried for 9 hours, no dice, with moderate force (not trying to destroy the chip).

Even used QTip to Put Artic Clean Solution on the surface to breakdown the TIM, and tried using Floss, didnt work either, wouldnt budge, floss couldnt get under it to separate, it sealed off every edge nicely when it solidified, not even with a rubber grip pip wrench, exacto knife, etc.

The Substrate Package has likely cracked from IHS when we pulled it off to save the mainboard, as the locking mech was underneath the water block, we had to slowly pull it out of the socket without unclamping it.


It was an 8100 Series FX Chip, so it's no big loss, but I was looking at any options to save some investment.

That's gnarly - I didn't think TIM could even get that hard. Floss was a real clever idea. Not sure if I would have thought of that

Side note - I live in Norfolk!
Stay safe in this heat!
post #27720 of 28394
Quote:
Originally Posted by LikesToSlide View Post

While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.

First, I would like to point out to everyone that the banner ad seems to be gone.

As for using the motherboard fan headers, this works perfectly and does not cause any strain on a motherboard. I have used this method since the days of the original H50 and it works perfectly. My mother board has software for creating fan curves and can also control the rest of the fans based on temperature sensors on the board. This is actually better than using the link software since it never malfunctions. Many newer (last five years) motherboards will either have two CPU fan headers or a CPU and an AUX fan header that can be tied together in BIOS so they operate at the same RPM. If a person does not have this, they can use a PWM fan splitter which will allow you to run two PWM fans from one header and still maintain RPM control. If you want to use four fans for push/pull you can use a four or more PWM splitter and it will use a molex connector from the PSU for power while still plugging all four fans into the CPU header on the board so all four fans operate at the same RPM.
This is a tried and true method for controlling rad fans for water coolers. In fact, earlier in this thread there are extensive discussions on this very issue including a diagram I made and posted on how to make your own PWM splitter with the molex power option.
I have also used the motherboard pwr fan header for the pump on every build using an AIO water cooler without any issues. On older units the pump wire also had the RPM wire so you could trust the motherboard alarm to tell you if the pump failed. It's really too bad they removed that wire. However, the current draw from the pump is low enough to not cause any problems on any motherboard I have used. I have done over 30 installations like this in the last few years (likely more) without a single failure.
Edited by Mergatroid - 8/13/16 at 5:25pm
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Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X Joystick NZXT Hue LED Controller Razer Orbweaver Chroma RGB Mechanical Gaming Co... Ergotron LX Desk Mount LCD Arm 
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Nukeyork
(24 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 4770k ASUS Sabertooth Z87 MSI Radeon RX480 Gaming X 8GB MSI Radeon RX480 Gaming X 8GB 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
16G Kingston 1600MHz Corsair Force Series SSD 180GB Crucial MX300 SSD 525GB Western Digital WD10EALS 1TB 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
ASUS BW-12B1ST Blu-ray RW Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate Windows 10 64 pro LG 34UM65-P 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Hcman Zhuque Teamwolf Mechanical Corsair AX750 Corsair 760T Steel Series Sensei Wireless Gaming Mouse 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Steel Series 4HD Pro On Board Thermaltake X 5G Superspeed USB 3.0 Hard Drive ... Logitech Driving Force GT Steering Wheel 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X Joystick NZXT Hue LED Controller Razer Orbweaver Chroma RGB Mechanical Gaming Co... Ergotron LX Desk Mount LCD Arm 
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Reply
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