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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 324

post #3231 of 28251
Is this a shroud that i can put it? And how much longer screws do I need then - i need to be sure?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fetfcxtrash1.html

Do i need shrouds on both ends? I'm n00bie in this watercooling stuff
Edited by denied - 2/4/10 at 12:56am
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post #3232 of 28251
Quote:
Do i need shrouds on both ends? I'm n00bie in this watercooling stuff
Oooh, that's a top end shroud. Lot's of folk just cut up a cheap/broke fan to use as shroud. The general view is a push shroud is the best help for airflow. A pull shroud is better at reducing noise than improving temps. It all depends on how much room you have in your case. If I remember from previous posts, about 35mm on push gives the best performance increase. There is a shroud test link on the first page of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

Edit: 2.5 inch screws works for me on pull side with a fan guard, washer, 25mm deep fan and shroud, antivibration silicone grommet, case, radiator. I have no room for a shroud on the push side and use the stock 1.25 inch screws. The Corsair kit should include 4 of these. If you use a 38 mm deep shroud you will need longer. I'd get 3 inch and cut it down to size.
Edited by PCPaladin - 2/4/10 at 1:32am
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post #3233 of 28251
Can you tell me how long screw do i need - i'm not very good with inches (of course better to be little bit longer than accidentaly shorter)
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post #3234 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
Not yet, Speedfan wont let me control it right now. I'll try and remember to move the cable to another controllable port when I reboot.
EDIT: goodnight
I think its supposed to have full power from the fan port.

Regarding the fan headers that controlled ,why Mobo manufacturers doesn't make all fan ports controlled so we can control 'em and not buy fan controller ?
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post #3235 of 28251
Hi,

I'm a noob to the threads and the website. So greetings all. Looking for some advice. I'm building a new pc, specs will be:

i7 920
X58A UD3R
corsair HX 750
HD 5850 (to be crossfired in the future)
and I'm seriously thinking about using an H50 to cool.

I'll be overclocking but nothing extreme. Probaby somewhere about 3.6 Mhz, which is where I've read there's a sweet spot between power consumption and processing power.

Right now I'm trying to decide on a case. And that's where I'd like advice.

Due to my budget and the lack of availability of certain brands where I'm based I'm choosing between the HAF 922, the Storm Scout or the CM 690 II advanced. or the thermaltake Element G.

I'd been seriously thinking about the HAF because above all I'd like a quiet system and I'd mount the radiator and fan on the back fan placement. I'd also been intending to get the one with the closed side panel (to reduce dust and noise) - but that panel won't allow side fan mounting. Which means I'd be limited to only the two 20 mm intake and outake fans, plus the back fan for the H50, plus an optional 120 mm intake on the base of the case. Is that goign to be enough?

Would you reccomend one of the other cases over the HAF. The CM 690 II seems erally nice, very good price and alot of fan options...allegedly it's quite quiet too.
post #3236 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptnBB View Post
Here's another few mods I did and Final pics. I have not figured out what I'm doing with the rad fans yet. These are the Corsair fan on the back and an Antec Tricool Red fan as a tie over right now. It's almost impossible to see in these pictures but i got a Bitspower temperature sensor and put it in the Res just so I can see what the water temp int the Res is.

1. I had to make a neat spot for the fan cables to plug into the mainboard on the inside. So I broke out the Dremel and cut the rear panel plug.
[ATTACH]disable[/ATTACH]

2. This ones a pic of the front of the side panel. I found when putting the side back on with all the wiring that the panel was being pushed away from the main case about 1/16". I bent the inside to make the fit better and now its perfectly flat on the side.
[ATTACH]disable[/ATTACH]

3. This one's me leak testing while inside the case.
[ATTACH]disable[/ATTACH]

4. Everything all mounted up. Filled with distilled water and Antifreeze. I know it's green but it was free. I'll be changing the color not too far in the future, I really don't like the color.
[ATTACH]disable[/ATTACH]

5. The finished product so far. I'm happy with the outcome.
[ATTACH]disable[/ATTACH]
I certainly like how you modded H50 & set up there.. 1+REP
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post #3237 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by hollywood406 View Post
Nice job on the modding! I agree that some Peak (blue) anti-freeze would look TONS better! Actually, I didn't know that you could use that . The PC Pure stuff works great and it was only $12 for a quart that I used maybe 1/2 a pint in mine
Hollywood, thats awesome and nice set up with Modded H50! 1+REP..
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post #3238 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
It's fun when my friends are here, I tell them to put their hand behind the radiator then I crank it up to 90 CFM
Oh, the parties you must have at your place...
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post #3239 of 28251
Hey guys, needa pop a question.
Can I run the H50 pump off a direct 12V supply all day?
Corsair recommends for it to be run at full speed right?
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post #3240 of 28251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agaeris View Post
It really sounded like there was air trapped inside or liquid on some electronics or something, not an issue w/ too big a rad.
I think the biggest issue issue I had with the 240mm rad was the fact I had no reservoir. Could not get all the air out and a pocket of it must have gotten stuck in the pump. The pump is decently powerful and I do think it could handle a low resistance single pass 240mm rad. Just need to incorporate a a reservoir into the loop and also keeping the tubing to a minimum.
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