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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 956

post #9551 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
How are you running the H50? As stock with stand alone Corsair fan?

Or are you running the Corsair mated with another fan and a shroud?

~Ceadder
I got two Gentle Typhoon AP 15 on the rad which is placed on the drive bay as intake.
    
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post #9552 of 28303
Okay. If you have an old 120mm laying about you may gut it and try adding that in between your Pusher and the Rad. That should lower your temps better than replacing the 230 with 2 120s'.

On a side note I have to power down for some LED testing since I just switched out the lightsaber blue LEDs' in my other I/O panel. It was DOA and I have a replacement in my system but GEEZ they're blinding. So I picked up some Low Intensity Reds and modded the I/O.

Be back as soon as I can.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by zefs View Post
I got two Gentle Typhoon AP 15 on the rad which is placed on the drive bay as intake.
 
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post #9553 of 28303
Quick question: if you put a gutted fan in between a fan and the rad, how do you screw the fans onto the rad?
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post #9554 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Okay. If you have an old 120mm laying about you may gut it and try adding that in between your Pusher and the Rad. That should lower your temps better than replacing the 230 with 2 120s'.

On a side note I have to power down for some LED testing since I just switched out the lightsaber blue LEDs' in my other I/O panel. It was DOA and I have a replacement in my system but GEEZ they're blinding. So I picked up some Low Intensity Reds and modded the I/O.

Be back as soon as I can.

~Ceadder
Umm I used two cheap coolermaster fans as shrouds but didn't notice any difference? Atleast when idle. I will make a more thorough test tomorrow.
    
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post #9555 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeng91 View Post
Quick question: if you put a gutted fan in between a fan and the rad, how do you screw the fans onto the rad?
Not to sound like an ars.. but longer screws... you just sandwich the middle "fan
between the radiator and the actual fan.

You can sometimes find the right size at hardware stores... its been posted a few times on here the size , length and thread pitch needed. I don't recall the numbers off the top of my head... perhaps it should be added to the top post if it has not already been done.
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post #9556 of 28303
The pump just started making a really loud buzzing sound(it wasn't that load before).
Weird...
    
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post #9557 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by zefs View Post
I just replaced the HAF 932 top fan with two scythe slip stream 1900 rpm and the corsair H50 fan. I think load temps dropped quite a bit!
Aye! I did the same with the exact same fans, 1x SKJ 1900rpm "slip stream" as back exhaust and at the top to go with 1x SK S-flex 1600rpm.
I posted my temps and pics of my setup a few pages back check it out, now running drive bay intake "push/pull" with 2x San ace 70.4pa/99cfm 38x120mm fans!
Friggin awesome my load temps now, thinking about getting some Scythe UK 2000rpm to replace rear and top exhaust fans and then use the 2x SKJ and 1x S-S flex on the side panel and remove the 230mm fan which is there.
    
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post #9558 of 28303
Quote:
Originally Posted by zefs View Post
The pump just started making a really loud buzzing sound(it wasn't that load before).
Weird...
oh ? Is it like a "bubbling" moving water sound? or perhaps maybe a wire has been caught in a fan or is slightly touching against some fins maybe ?
    
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post #9559 of 28303
It's like when the metal synchronizes or the side window of the case hasn't closed correctly etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by R3aCt0r M|Nd
I posted my temps and pics of my setup a few pages back check it out, now running drive bay intake "push/pull" with 2x San ace 70.4pa/99cfm 38x120mm fans!
Yeah really nice temps there!
    
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post #9560 of 28303
They're 6-32 thread pitch and with 25mm depth per "fan" the minimum length should include the thickness of the case for the "puller" So minimum for that should be 28mm. Minimum for the "pusher" side of things should be 53mm in length.

The thing to do is to take your H50 with you when bolt shopping to make absolutely certain that the tread pitch is correct. This way you can measure the depth of the example bolt and this way you can get the best possible outcome.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Not to sound like an ars.. but longer screws... you just sandwich the middle "fan
between the radiator and the actual fan.

You can sometimes find the right size at hardware stores... its been posted a few times on here the size , length and thread pitch needed. I don't recall the numbers off the top of my head... perhaps it should be added to the top post if it has not already been done.
 
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ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Crosshair IV Formula Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
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Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified EK Thermosphere GPU Block EK Thermosphere GPU Block 
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HAF 932 Logitech g9x COOLER MASTER Weapon of Choice: M4 Duramesh Pad Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers 
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