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post #9721 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitekrazy View Post
I attempted something like that with the Wings RS but the mounting holes in the back are for a 92mm fan.
ah okay i didnt know the rear fan was 92mm in that case.
 
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post #9722 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Don't undervolt it. Corsair was pretty adamant that the Pump be plugged in at the CPU cooler. Undervolting it will change the pump speed. Which you don't want to do.

Save that as last resort if you've got your mind set to do it.

~Ceadder

Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?
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post #9723 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by SM0k3 View Post
Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?
I thought they designed it so you wouldn't make a mistake. One item has a 3 pin (radiator?), the other has a 4 pin.
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post #9724 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by SM0k3 View Post
Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?
Yeah, that's right. However, I have 2 fans running, so they could either go on the MB or directly to the PSU (which is what I did). This way, the fans are always running at 100%. This just left the pump, and I put that into the CPU fan slot. The radiator fan has 4 prongs because it's a PWM fan, which gives speed control. Plugging it into a 3 pin header will make it run at 100%, so if you don't mind it running at 100%, then the 4 pin connector can be put into a 3 pin header.

Other than that, there's no difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Ahhh but you're also flowing through a 120mm footprint not the stock 140mm one. In any case my thought there was based on possibly intaking the exhaust from your GPU if you're running one. Didn't check, my apologies.

But yeah I think up top should be better results for you.

~Ceadder
I tried putting it on the top as exhaust, the temperatures were virutally the same - maybe a degree or two drop.

Intake in the rear dropped about 3c...still not much perhaps trying AS5 on a last remount attempt might help?
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post #9725 of 28252
well, swapped out the TIM on the CPU for TX-3 and swapped back to 2 antec tri-cools(was using before) from the delta i was using and idle temps dropped 2C from what they were before. Does anyone know if TX3 has a cure time??
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post #9726 of 28252
Aye I meant maybe the cpu voltage is a little high for stock, as mine was alot lower at 1.144v compared to his 1.25v. I'm not completly clued up on how stock VID compares with different i7 chips, but this made me think that perhaps the higher voltage for same clock speed as my 920 was generating the extra heat.
Theres no harm undervolting your cpu at stock from 1.25v I guess.
    
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post #9727 of 28252
Oops, I shoulda known that.

Ahhhh well, thanks for pointing that out at least.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by iGuitarGuy View Post
He meant undervolting the cpu, not pump, so I would say undervolting the cpu is fine.
 
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post #9728 of 28252
Hmmm. It did drop though. You might very well get some Shin-Etsu G751. That's what the stock TIM is and it just edges out AS5. You can get it at performance-pcs.com for about $4. But it's not very much. I think it's a quarter gram tube.

When you have everything back together you might try tapping the tubes to make sure that any bubbles hung up will be freed and able to go to the high point of the Rad. I'm not sure it'll make a difference but it's worth a shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeng91 View Post
I tried putting it on the top as exhaust, the temperatures were virutally the same - maybe a degree or two drop.

Intake in the rear dropped about 3c...still not much perhaps trying AS5 on a last remount attempt might help?
@DQ hero... Nope it looks like TX3 has no cure time other than 8 hours or less.

~Ceadder
Edited by Ceadderman - 6/6/10 at 6:09pm
 
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post #9729 of 28252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Hmmm. It did drop though. You might very well get some Shin-Etsu G751. That's what the stock TIM is and it just edges out AS5. You can get it at performance-pcs.com for about $4. But it's not very much. I think it's a quarter gram tube.

When you have everything back together you might try tapping the tubes to make sure that any bubbles hung up will be freed and able to go to the high point of the Rad. I'm not sure it'll make a difference but it's worth a shot.



@DQ hero... Nope it looks like TX3 has no cure time other than 8 hours or less.

~Ceadder
I plan to order some shin-etsu, as I only have IC-7 and AS5 left over from when I used it in my laptop. However, I'll give the AS5 a chance to cure while I order the shin-etsu and have it shipped. Will it make a difference or am I doomed to have high temps forever (unless I get a new H50?)?
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post #9730 of 28252
Are you OC'ed somehow and not noticing it? This happened to someone else, not sure exactly what is going on if you can't hit at least mid to high 40s' at Idle and mid to high 50s' at load. It's behaving like you're OC'ed. Of course that 5870 is a pretty hot GPU so maybe it's affecting the H50. But I don't think that it should be considering your ambients are aroun 25c. Maybe you would be better off RMA'ing it.

Oh and the only real difference between the Shin-Etsu paste and the AS5 is that the AS5 has a longer cure time.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeng91 View Post
I plan to order some shin-etsu, as I only have IC-7 and AS5 left over from when I used it in my laptop. However, I'll give the AS5 a chance to cure while I order the shin-etsu and have it shipped. Will it make a difference or am I doomed to have high temps forever (unless I get a new H50?)?
 
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