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[Official] Noctua NH-D14 Club - Page 117

post #1161 of 3947
Your case is a full inch wider than my NZXT Tempest Evo. seeing that most case fans are ~1" thick, the D14 should fit as long as the MB tray has a half inch or less between it and the backside of the case
post #1162 of 3947
Well tomorrow after I get my motherboard and put everything together, I'll measure and see how much clearance I have. If I take a ruler and measure from the motherboard, how much clearance from the motherboard to the large 220mm fan do I need?

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post #1163 of 3947
that would require the height of the cooler off of the processor plate. You need at least 160mm or 6 5/8" of space there
post #1164 of 3947
So I just replaced my CM Hyper 212+ with a Noctua NH-D14. I have an odd question though, and it may be because I'm paranoid, but when the manual said to remove the plastic from the heatsink, it only meant the plastic cap right? There was nothing like a plastic film that I was suppose to peel off?

Reason I'm asking this is because my IDLE temps haven't changed at all since installing the Noctua, I assumed it'd go down several degrees but it hasn't. I'll be running Prime95 later to see it in action.

Another question I have is what you guys set your fan speeds at? To get those ridiculously low temps do you always have it running at 100%?

I currently have it running at 50% on 30 C and have it automatically increase until it reaches 100% at 60 C. Is there a more efficient setup? Looking at it now, it seems they're always running at 100% (1300 RPM), is that because I didn't install the Silent Connectors?
Edited by 3xVicious - 4/21/11 at 6:16pm
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post #1165 of 3947
It would help if you would fill in your specs. Go to UserCP and look on the left. Where it says Add System, add yours.

Gigabyte boards allow Voltage control of fans. Otherwise the D14 goes full out all the time. If you have a lower OC you can go with the ULNA adapters, but a 2500k doing 4.6GHz (HT on) @1.3v needs the full fans.
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post #1166 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
It would help if you would fill in your specs. Go to UserCP and look on the left. Where it says Add System, add yours.

Gigabyte boards allow Voltage control of fans. Otherwise the D14 goes full out all the time. If you have a lower OC you can go with the ULNA adapters, but a 2500k doing 4.6GHz (HT on) @1.3v needs the full fans.
Odd, because my whole system should be on here, even the speakers. I'll have to add them again.

Also do you think you could answer my other silly question? Was there any plastic adhesive on the heatsink to prevent scratches and fingerprints or was there only a plastic cap that you were suppose to remove?
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post #1167 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3xVicious View Post
Odd, because my whole system should be on here, even the speakers. I'll have to add them again.

Also do you think you could answer my other silly question? Was there any plastic adhesive on the heatsink to prevent scratches and fingerprints or was there only a plastic cap that you were suppose to remove?
I saw only the plastic cap, now you got me thinking too...
but on second thought I did reapply my TIM so I did clean both surfaces, and no plastic was found, lol

also I am getting these (Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E) for my case and will be trying them on the cooler to see if i get any change.
Edited by X-ray - 4/21/11 at 6:49pm
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post #1168 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3xVicious View Post
Also do you think you could answer my other silly question? Was there any plastic adhesive on the heatsink to prevent scratches and fingerprints or was there only a plastic cap that you were suppose to remove?
The question is hardly silly, but I've had my D14 for going on a year and a half. I can't remember if it had a plastic skin.
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post #1169 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
The question is hardly silly, but I've had my D14 for going on a year and a half. I can't remember if it had a plastic skin.
I'm pretty sure all mine had on it was a plastic cover. no skin or anything like that........
You could check your cpu bracket and see if it rises above the cpu, sometimes that can be an issue
post #1170 of 3947
Hey everyone, I just got my Noctua NH-D14 in today. I ran RealTemp's Sensor Test with Prime95 Small FTT and found a few concerns.

Room Temp: 30 C (Broken Air Conditioner)

According to RealTemp:

Idle Average
Core 1: 37 C
Core 2: 37 C
Core 3: 37 C
Core 4: 37 C

Minimum Temps:
Core 1: 33 C
Core 2: 35 C
Core 3: 34 C
Core 4: 31 C

100% Load
Core 1: 65 C
Core 2: 71 C
Core 3: 70 C
Core 4: 67 C

Now, is this all because of my high Room Temp, which I'm assuming so, or is it because of a bad Noctua install? I put a 5mm dot of Noctua's TIM in the center of the CPU and let pressure do its magic.

Another concern besides the high temps is the difference in Core Temps... 6 C Difference between Core 1 and 2 seems strange... or is this a i7-2600K quirk?

As far as my case is concerned, I'm running a Raven RV02-E with stock fans. 3x 180mm Intake Fans at 1200rpm, and 1x 120mm Exhaust Fan at 1300rpm.

Is this normal for my miserable situation?

Also, do you guys recommend I change the stock Noctua fans? I have a $50 Gift Card with Newegg, and I was going to either buy another NF-P12 for a three fan setup or change them all out for better fans. Any recommendations? I'd like to stay away from modding, so if I need to take a dremel or drill to a fan in order to make it fit, I'd rather stick with stock. If you guys have any in black to match my red on black theme, or better yet a black fan with red LEDs... That would be amazing.
Edited by Atiesh - 4/22/11 at 1:55am
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