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Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus/EVO Club - Page 112

post #1111 of 6664
Moar Pictures biggrin.gif

First and second is my Temps (on bad TIM)
third pic is my El Cheapo TIM
4th and 5th is the pictures that you guys probably more interested in:D


In my sig is a link to a valid 4.1GHz i7 860 (guess which cooler i used)
and just for lolz im gunna get rid of "fueled by sapphire" and put the CM one there:yessir:
    
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post #1112 of 6664
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf;12325284 
What were the ambient room temps when you supposedly achieved 19C temps on an i7 860? I have a very difficult time believing it's possible unless the room was about 10C (50F).

dude it was in an air conditioned Canadian house, us canadians hate the heat XD we make it nice and cold in our houses during the summer XD. and i dont remember room temps that day, but CPU was 19 degrees (lowest) it would occasionally pop to 20 and 21 but the it drops to 19 again.. but then again, idle temps are not to be trusted since they are increadably inaccurate
    
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WD Caviar Green 1TB MSI DVD Burner Corsair H100i Windows 10 Education 64Bit 
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post #1113 of 6664
I'm totally sold on this heatsink. I did a quick writeup on my htpc/file server's move to the 212+. I'm using it w/o a fan, instead using the fan off the rad to exhaust hot air. It seems to work fine so far.

194692d1297212547-rx120-fc-6970-h50-rx120-p1070733.jpg
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post #1114 of 6664
If anyone has a CM 690 II case, how much space is there on the back plate for the screws to hold the back brace on?
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post #1115 of 6664
I installed a dual fan push and pull config and saw no change in idle or load temps. Fans are installed correctly and working correctly.

What's going on?
post #1116 of 6664
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsightSoul;12343970 
I installed a dual fan push and pull config and saw no change in idle or load temps. Fans are installed correctly and working correctly.

What's going on?

Could be any number of things. Without more details it's impossible for us to tell for sure though.

What fans are you using?

Are you running them off of the PWM controller of the motherboard or do you have them configured to run at full speed? If the former then the PWM could be slowing both fans down so it would give the same temps as it did with a single fan. This is more likely if you are running at stock speeds.

What direction is the heatsink oriented? Is it pushing the air out the back or the top?

What are your ambient temps? Are the room temps when you tested with the Push/Pull exactly the same as when you tested with only the one fan?

What other fans do you have in the case and how are they oriented?

Most people only see about a 1 or 2C difference anyway. There's no guarantee that a push/pull setup will actually lower temps.
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post #1117 of 6664
Hmm. . . yea lots of factors. I'm using a PWM Y splitter (Gelid one, really nice) and fans are at full speed for the test.

Using 2 blademasters.

It could be ambient temp changes since I didn't control for that. Forgot to do temp test before installing the second fan.

I got to say though 2 Blade Master fans running at full speed are loud and are very noticeable compared to just 1.

I'm not going to worry about it anymore especially since it's really hard to see a 1 or 2 degree drop.

On the other hand dropping 50Mhz and the corresponding Vcore got me 5ºC.
Edited by InsightSoul - 2/11/11 at 2:09am
post #1118 of 6664
For the part unless one is really pushing their OC or running their system at 100% cpu load 24/7/365 like I do running the Folding @ Home SMP Client a Push/Pull setup really doesn't warrant the additional cost and noise.

You might want to try running the fans with PWM enabled to see how that works. It should slow the fans down when you are surfing the web, doing e-mail, word processing, watching videos, etc., then ramp up when you do something more cpu intensive like gaming or benching. You might find that works out quite well for you.
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post #1119 of 6664
Is there a cheap alternative substance i can use for TIM? i mean.. 5 bucks for like 10 applications seams a bit much... or is that my only option? cuz im gunna buy some Arctic silver Matrix or some Arctic Silver 5
    
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
AMD Performance OEM - 16GB DDR3 1866MHz Sandisk Ultra II 500GB SSD Samsung 830 128GB SSD WD Caviar Black 500GB 
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WD Caviar Green 1TB MSI DVD Burner Corsair H100i Windows 10 Education 64Bit 
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post #1120 of 6664
The stuff that comes with the 212+ is excellent. It's better than ANYTHING Arctic Silver makes. Just use it instead. If you run out I recommend Arctic Cooling MX-2 or MX-3. Much better than any of the Arctic Silver crap and much less expensive. MX-2 is normally the most affordable of the better quality TIM's so that would probably be your best alternative. A regular sized 4gram package of MX-2 should run you about $7 or so and contains at least 10 times the amount of TIM as the original TIM that shipped with it.
442
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
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Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
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Antec Earthwatts 430 none 
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442
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Q6600
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q9550 E0 DFI LanParty LT P35-T2R 2 x HD4670QT512P CF Patriot PVS24G8500ELKN 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Stock pfsense Acer H233H Antec EarthWatts 430 
CaseAudio
custom onboard 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E6420 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 7300LE 2G PNY PC2-6400 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
80Gig WDC SATA NEC ND3540A Win 7 Ultimate 64bit/XP Pro Acer H233H 
PowerCase
Antec Earthwatts 430 none 
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