What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. TheBladeMaster
fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud. Please note that when used on heatsinks and radiators Static Pressure is as important as CFMs as it's the pressure that forces the air through the fins. CFMs with low pressure like the standard R4's are okay when used as case fans, but they come up short on heatsinks.
CM R4 has 1.3mm H20 rating of static pressure.
CM Blade Master has a 3.9mmH20 rating of static pressure.
YL High Speed has 2.9mm H20 rating of static pressure.
A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the Folding@Home SMP client on my systems which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster on mine. Compudaze
did some tests with the Blademaster fan running by itself and in a push/pull setup running at various rpms. One of the interesting results he found was that by running 2 BladeMaster's in P/P at 1,600 RPM your temps will be within 0.3C of a single BladeMaster at it's full 2,000 RPMs, but the system was noticeably quieter. This might be just the thing for those who feel the single BladeMaster is too loud at full speed.
Based on compudaze's tests a pair of Yate Loon Medium Speed fans (which run at 1,650 RPMs) running in Push/Pull should yield the same results as a pair of BladeMaster's running in P/P at 1,600 rpm and be about as loud. While I don't have a pair to test, based on what I know about the Yate's I am confident that the difference would be within 1C. This would be a good option for someone who doesn't have a fan controller or who's motherboard won't allow them to control the BM fans manually. If I get a second YL Medium Speed Fan I'll test this to verify this and post back with the results. What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?
This is the actual BladeMaster
fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though. What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable
to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.
While it isn't necessary to do so for both fans to run in sync off of the same PWM header using one of the splitters some people like to snip the yellow rpm sense wire on one of the leads to disable RPM Readout of one of the fans in monitoring software. It has no effect on how the two fans work, only in the monitoring. If you don't the monitor might show the combined speed of both fans (re: 4,000 RPM if a pair of 2,000 RPM fans are used). It's merely cosmetic. It's up to you to decide if you want to snip one of the leads or not.
You can also get one that is sleeved
, but it would be more difficult to snip the yellow rpm sense wire on the sleeved version.Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.How should I apply the TIM?
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. Ap42 posted a good guide for this found here in this very thread
. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.
I've also found that cramming the TIM in the gaps along side of the heatpipes can actually cause temps to be higher so I have stopped recommending that people do that. Just run a small line of TIM along the 3 strips of the aluminum base between the 4 copper heatpipes, clamp it down, and let the pressure do the rest.What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.My 212+ moves after I mounted it. Is that wrong?
It depends. If all it does is swivel a bit that is normal. If it rocks then something is wrong. You should take it out of the system, double check that the mounting bracket is attached firmly, then remount the heatsink. The instructions that came with the 212+ are difficult to understand. Are there any guides that do a better job of explaining how to install it?
Coolermaster did a terrible job on the instructions, especially for AMD systems. They have a video that does a great job for Intel systems, but nothing for AMD. Luckily Hardware Canucks
has a guide for AMD users that you can use. With the exception of reversing the backplate the instructions work for an Intel system as well.
How does the 212+ stack up against a high end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, ThermalRight Venomous -X, Megahalems, etc.
The 212+ is one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu air coolers available, often available for $20 to $25. The NH-D14 and other high end cpu air coolers run $60 to $80 and up. While they will cool better, it won't be worth it to some people. Baldy did a comparison of a 212+ to a NH-D14
did a comparison of several of the higher end heatsink's along with the Hyper 212+. That should give you some idea on how much additional cooling you would get by spending 2 to 3 times as much money. If you need the absolute best air cooling solution and have the funds to do so then by all means go with one of the top units. But for a $20 to $25 outlay you simply can NOT beat a 212+ as there is absolutely nothing that works as well for that kind of money.What about mounting in on a Socket 1155 motherboard? Will it fit or work?
While the mounting holes on socket 1155 boards is the same as on 1156 boards, the area around the socket isn't the same. There have been reports about some heatsinks that use a large backplate like the one the Hyper 212+ uses shorting out against solder points on the back side of some 1155 boards. While I haven't heard any specific reports of it happening with the Hyper 212+, it appears that it uses the same backplate as the CoolerMaster V6 which DOES have a problem on some boards. With that in mind one needs to be very diligent about checking around the socket area to make sure the backplate won't short out against anything. One site suggesting getting 4 nylon washers to put between the backplate and the motherboard to isolate the backplate from coming into contact with any of the electrical components on the backside of the board. You can pick these nylon washers up and any hardware store for less than a dollar, at least here in the USA. I'm not sure about other countries.
As I receive further information about this issue I will add it.Edited by PapaSmurf - 5/13/11 at 9:36pm