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Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus/EVO Club - Page 136

post #1351 of 6633
You won't be disappointed. Tricky part is first time installation. Study carefully, read through this thread of what others had trouble with, and you'll be fine.

It's what I did and didn't need much help as a result.
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post #1352 of 6633
Hey guys, I need some help. I'm trying to set up my CM 212+.
To set it up as push/pull I bought a sickleflow blue led CM fan that has 3 pin female connector. I want to connect both the stock fan and this fan together into PWM and I'm wondering what the best way to do this is.
Right now, I'm thinking a Y-cable that has (4 pin female fan, 3-pin female) into (4 pin female). Does this cable exist?
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post #1353 of 6633
post #1354 of 6633
Quote:
Originally Posted by rugox View Post
Hey guys, I need some help. I'm trying to set up my CM 212+.
To set it up as push/pull I bought a sickleflow blue led CM fan that has 3 pin female connector. I want to connect both the stock fan and this fan together into PWM and I'm wondering what the best way to do this is.
Right now, I'm thinking a Y-cable that has (4 pin female fan, 3-pin female) into (4 pin female). Does this cable exist?
Can't be done. The R4 doesn't support PWM so you would need to either run them both at full speed or manually control them. The R4 will never run in sync with the stock BladeMaster and will more than likely cause temps to be higher instead of lower. At best you might get the same temp with both as you would with just the single BladeMaster, but with a louder system. Just run the single BladeMaster or get a second actual BladeMaster and hook it up via a PWM Splitter.

Sleeved $2.99 with free shipping
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html

Un-Sleeved $2.49 with free shipping
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12.html
Edited by PapaSmurf - 3/9/11 at 9:08pm
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post #1355 of 6633
Quote:
Originally Posted by jach11 View Post
be sure to cut one of the yellow wires so the rpm sensors dont interfere with each other
post #1356 of 6633
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffejrxx View Post
be sure to cut one of the yellow wires so the rpm sensors dont interfere with each other
Not necessary if you are using an actual PWM Y-Adapter. Just plug them into the Y Adapter.
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post #1357 of 6633
Can I join?? I slapped a R4 blue led on mine once for push pull, but temps stayed the same and the noise I didn't like. Would another Blademaster fan like the original work out better??
    
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post #1358 of 6633
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomThruPoom View Post
Can I join?? I slapped a R4 blue led on mine once for push pull, but temps stayed the same and the noise I didn't like. Would another Blademaster fan like the original work out better??
As I have stated time and time again if you want to do a Push/Pull with the stock BladeMaster you absolutely MUST use another BladeMaster otherwise you are just wasting your time. I just posted that information a few posts back.
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post #1359 of 6633
Damn that sucks. I thought if I just slap on any fan that runs with the same RPM, push pull would work. What about two of the fans I mentioned in push pull not including the blademaster? Is it a case of blademasters having the most effective air flow or just the two fans have to be equal?
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post #1360 of 6633
It has more to do with CFM and Static Pressure than RPMs. And a pair of R4's (or sickle flows as they are known in some places) would be at least 1 to 2C HOTTER than a single BladeMaster. All of this has been covered time and time and time again in this thread. Either get a second BladeMaster or just run the one. The R4's are designed to be used as CASE fans, not heatsink/radiator fans.
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