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Samsung 226BW flickers for a few minutes when powering on

post #1 of 114
Thread Starter 
I have a 226BW, original samsung model. So far it has worked beautifully, great monitor for an LCD.

Anyway, recently for no apparent reason, it has started to flicker very rapidly when I either first turn it on, or it comes out of a standby state after a significant period of downtime. The screen is practically unusable in this state because it is dim and flickering rapidly. I can't figure out anything I may have done physically to alter its behavior... it did start happening roughly around the same time I upgraded to the latest nvidia drivers, however it doesn't only happen in windows, it happens from a cold boot from the BIOS screen which would indicate it's not driver-related, right?

Anyway, the flickering continues for anywhere from 2 to 6 minutes or so, and at some point it randomly comes full on and works normally. Nothing I can do seems to influence how long it flickers for - I can change resolutions or brightness settings or launch a 3d game or turn it on and off and it doesn't matter... it's just going to randomly pick its own time to stop flickering.

Does anyone know what the cause might be, or any potential solutions? I don't want this monitor to die, it was hard enough to find originally (without getting a crappier subcontracted model of the 226bw). Should I just leave it on 24/7 and not let it power down?

I guess there's a possibility that it relates to the video card rather than the monitor - if you think that's likely then I can drag it to someone else's house and test it on their system. I should also mention that it's part of a dual setup with another 226 (the other one Chimei unfortunately) and it's set up as the primary monitor. The other monitor shows no signs of problems.
    
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post #2 of 114
I hate to say it, but it sounds like the monitor could be dying. I mean I'm just guessing that this is what happens when they begin dying.
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post #3 of 114
Depending on how long ago you purchased it you could contact samsung. But I agree with twocables it seems like it might be dying slowly.
    
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post #4 of 114
Thread Starter 
It's out of warranty and I bought it second hand unfortunately. If I could replace it with a monitor that was as good, it wouldn't bother me so much - but based on various reviews I've read none of the samsung monitors that replaced the 226 were as good as it in every categroy - input lag, visual persistance, color, etc. They might be superior in one or two aspects, but not overall.

Anyway, I've alleviated the problem mostly by just leaving my computer on 24/7, and setting it to go to a blank screensaver rather than standby. But I still have to power down my computer sometimes... and when I did it this time, the monitor took 20 minutes before it went from blinking to solidly on. I'm worried it'll get longer and longer until eventually it just blinks indefinitely.

Anyone heard of this problem before? Any suggestions as to what to do?
    
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post #5 of 114
I'd say the inverter or CFL is failing.

You can check eBay for parts and make a fairly easy repair.
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post #6 of 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorBeef View Post
It's out of warranty and I bought it second hand unfortunately. If I could replace it with a monitor that was as good, it wouldn't bother me so much - but based on various reviews I've read none of the samsung monitors that replaced the 226 were as good as it in every categroy - input lag, visual persistance, color, etc. They might be superior in one or two aspects, but not overall.

Anyway, I've alleviated the problem mostly by just leaving my computer on 24/7, and setting it to go to a blank screensaver rather than standby. But I still have to power down my computer sometimes... and when I did it this time, the monitor took 20 minutes before it went from blinking to solidly on. I'm worried it'll get longer and longer until eventually it just blinks indefinitely.

Anyone heard of this problem before? Any suggestions as to what to do?
I apologize, but I think it's time to save up for a new monitor. I mean, I have never experienced a dying LCD monitor before, but it certainly sounds like this one is dying.

So, if you want a relatively equal replacement, then the 2253BW is a good one. However, at this point you could probably find something pretty superior to the 2253BW for the same price or even less brand new. But what I'm saying is that if I remember correctly, then the 2253BW is basically the same monitor.

I've had my 2253BW since about the beginning of the last week in April of 2008, and it's still going strong. I use it for over 12 hours every single day, and I've had the monitor set to be turned off after 1 hour this entire time as well.
Edited by TwoCables - 1/20/10 at 5:54pm
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post #7 of 114
Thread Starter 
Sorry to bump the thread again, but I think I'm gonna try to replace the inverter myself, assuming that's the problem, and I wanted to check here first.

I kept the thing running 24/7 for the last month and so I never had to deal with this issue, but I accidentally turned it off last night. This time it wouldn't stop flickering even after 8+ hours, so I doubt it's going to kick over.

There's one new symptom I noticed: sound. When it's first plugged in (and powered on by default) it makes a weird low pitched white noise kind of sound for 15 seconds, and then that stops and it's quiet. But if you turn it off (if it's plugged in but turned off) there's a high pitched whine. Other than the first 15 seconds after plugging it in, when it's turned on it's silent. The sound is pretty quiet, you need to put your ear up to the back of the unit, but it's definitely there. And my other 226BW doesn't do it.

Is this consistent with a bum power inverter? I don't want to give up on this monitor yet (by far the best LCD I've ever seen) so I'm going to take a stab at fixing it... but I don't want to rip it up and buy a potentially expensive replacement part (yeah I know it's probably a $2 part, but the only one I found so far is on ebay for $70) if it's not going to fix it anyway.
    
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post #8 of 114
Hey senorbeef,

I Have the 226bw, great monitor. One thing I'd recommend checking is all the capacitors when you have the covers off and can access everything. Take a good look at the tops, look for bulging and/or leaking. Sometimes a bad electrolytic cap is easy to spot, the top should be flat, so if it's rounded and bulging or especially if leaking, it may start to malfunction. Many power supplies and monitors have bitten the dust from nothing more than a failed capacitor- replace bad cap = back in biz. Just something to look for.
    
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post #9 of 114
Do not put your monitor in the bin, this is a really common issue with this model, and it's really easy to repare.

I have a 226BW and had this exact same problem myself, at the point that it took 20minutes of flickering before being usable.

The problem is that 3 capacitors on the power cirtcuitry are dying.
mini_528099P1040181JPG.jpg

The black arrows show the faulty capacitors.

All you have to do is to replace them with working ones that match their values.
You can safely use :
Those ones :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270673693891&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280480636244&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Or those ones (better quality but bigger, but they can fit : these are the one i used to repare mine wink.gif ) :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/2-condensateurs-330uF-35V-105-C-Panasonic-FC-/280307881656
http://cgi.ebay.fr/2-condensateurs-820uF-50V-105-C-low-esr-Panasonic-FC-/280438998951

So, when you have bought them (or other with same values) here is how to unmount your screen :

1/ Remove the black plastic cover
Put your monitor on a table, with the LCD panel facing the table.

On the back: - Remove the 3 screws used for the "foot?"
- 3 others for the main plastic
- unclip the plastic himself

2/ Remove the small cable on the right :

185557P1040164JPG.jpg

3/ unclip the left metal plate (with a screwdriver, it works great) and remove the 4 little cables. Write down their order and colors so that you won't forget it at mount time.

290912P1040168JPG.jpg

4/ Slowly open up the main metal plate

mini_552591P1040173JPG.jpg

5/ Remove this cable by pressing it's sides :

mini_418228P1040174JPG.jpg

6/ Remove the cable by pressing it sides :

mini_644069P1040177JPG.jpg

7/ Remove the 3 screws of the left circuitry, which is the Power one :

mini_853933P1040178JPG.jpg

8/ Remove the small metal plate :

mini_786865P1040180JPG.jpg

9/ Remove the power circuitry, and check those 3 capacitors :

mini_528099P1040181JPG.jpg

10/ Replace dead capacitors (those marked by 3 black arrows on the previous image)
You'll need :
two of 820uF or 1000uF /105° / around 25V
one of 330uF /105° / around 25V
You can also use those i've linked at the beginning of this post.


A dead or problematic capacitor can be detected by it's rounded top.
Fully functionnal capacitors must be flat, if it's not, then it's dead or almost dead.
Even if only two capacitors are dead, i would recommand to remove those 3 indicated here, because the third will probably die soon too.

You will need a soldering iron, but trust me, it's really easy to do, and won't cost more than 20$, soldering iron included.
Edited by dricks - 3/13/11 at 9:14am
post #10 of 114
Dricks,

You sir, are awesome. Thanks for the detail. Just ordered my capacitors for less then 6 bucks and going to give this a shot.
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