Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Samsung 226BW flickers for a few minutes when powering on
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Samsung 226BW flickers for a few minutes when powering on - Page 2

post #11 of 119
Please let me know if the capacitors were at fault and it resolves your issue.

My friend's monitor just started flickering when it turns on after being off for a while after I re-formatted and reinstalled Windows XP Pro Sp3.

I installed the latest drivers and noticed the flickering for the first time. It didn't occur before I reformatted.

I think its a driver issue maybe causing hardware issue. It can't be coincidental that as soon as I reformatted that this flickering started.

But regardless of my predicament I really would like to know how your monitor turns out after the capacitor replacement. Please keep us updated!!
post #12 of 119
Good to see this bumped for me! I was afraid I was going to rez this post from the dead!

I just started having this same problem about a week ago.. making this monitor about.. 3.5 years old I believe (Dec 07' I think, maybe even '06). Its served me amazingly for the past years and TBH it was going to be replaced in about a month, but I was planning on handing it down, and this issue kind of prevents that.

Exact same issue as documented, flickering when first turned on, takes maybe 2 minutes of power cycling / source cycling before the caps get charged enough I guess? I'm assuming there is no warranty left on these monitors even though Samsung had a serious part malfunction? Is the cap replacement the only possible way to bring back this monitor to its original state?

Thanks,

Nick
Residence Rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel E8400 ASUS P5Q Pro EVGA 8800GT 2x2GB CorsairXMS2 800MHz 5-5-5-18 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x500GB 7200.11 RAID0 1x500GB 7200.10 LG DVD Burner Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair TX750W Antec P182 Razer Diamondback 3G 
Mouse Pad
func1030 Surface 
  hide details  
Reply
Residence Rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel E8400 ASUS P5Q Pro EVGA 8800GT 2x2GB CorsairXMS2 800MHz 5-5-5-18 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x500GB 7200.11 RAID0 1x500GB 7200.10 LG DVD Burner Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair TX750W Antec P182 Razer Diamondback 3G 
Mouse Pad
func1030 Surface 
  hide details  
Reply
post #13 of 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by dricks;12714355 
Do not put your monitor in the bin, this is a really common issue with this model, and it's really easy to repare.

I have a 226BW and had this exact same problem myself, at the point that it took 20minutes of flickering before being usable.

The problem is that 3 capacitors on the power cirtcuitry are dying.
mini_528099P1040181JPG.jpg

The black arrows show the faulty capacitors.

All you have to do is to replace them with working ones that match their values.
You can safely use :
Those ones :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270673693891&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280480636244&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Or those ones (better quality but bigger, but they can fit : these are the one i used to repare mine wink.gif ) :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/2-condensateurs-330uF-35V-105-C-Panasonic-FC-/280307881656
http://cgi.ebay.fr/2-condensateurs-820uF-50V-105-C-low-esr-Panasonic-FC-/280438998951

So, when you have bought them (or other with same values) here is how to unmount your screen :

1/ Remove the black plastic cover
Put your monitor on a table, with the LCD panel facing the table.

On the back: - Remove the 3 screws used for the "foot?"
- 3 others for the main plastic
- unclip the plastic himself

2/ Remove the small cable on the right :

185557P1040164JPG.jpg

3/ unclip the left metal plate (with a screwdriver, it works great) and remove the 4 little cables. Write down their order and colors so that you won't forget it at mount time.

290912P1040168JPG.jpg

4/ Slowly open up the main metal plate

mini_552591P1040173JPG.jpg

5/ Remove this cable by pressing it's sides :

mini_418228P1040174JPG.jpg

6/ Remove the cable by pressing it sides :

mini_644069P1040177JPG.jpg

7/ Remove the 3 screws of the left circuitry, which is the Power one :

mini_853933P1040178JPG.jpg

8/ Remove the small metal plate :

mini_786865P1040180JPG.jpg

9/ Remove the power circuitry, and check those 3 capacitors :

mini_528099P1040181JPG.jpg

10/ Replace dead capacitors (those marked by 3 black arrows on the previous image)
You'll need :
two of 820uF or 1000uF /105° / around 25V
one of 330uF /105° / around 25V
You can also use those i've linked at the beginning of this post.


A dead or problematic capacitor can be detected by it's rounded top.
Fully functionnal capacitors must be flat, if it's not, then it's dead or almost dead.
Even if only two capacitors are dead, i would recommand to remove those 3 indicated here, because the third will probably die soon too.

You will need a soldering iron, but trust me, it's really easy to do, and won't cost more than 20$, soldering iron included.


Great info and how-to! Rep+

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiK_0_0;13338574 
Good to see this bumped for me! I was afraid I was going to rez this post from the dead!

I just started having this same problem about a week ago.. making this monitor about.. 3.5 years old I believe (Dec 07' I think, maybe even '06). Its served me amazingly for the past years and TBH it was going to be replaced in about a month, but I was planning on handing it down, and this issue kind of prevents that.

Exact same issue as documented, flickering when first turned on, takes maybe 2 minutes of power cycling / source cycling before the caps get charged enough I guess? I'm assuming there is no warranty left on these monitors even though Samsung had a serious part malfunction? Is the cap replacement the only possible way to bring back this monitor to its original state?

Thanks,

Nick

If the caps are bulged (even slightly - the tops should be perfectly flat - anything else indicates the capacitor is not working well anymore and the pressure inside it is building up), or even burst, there is no other way to fix the monitor.

Samsung did not necessarily have a serious part malfunction, what I think happened is they used cheap capacitors. The second ones pointed by dricks (the ones he used to replace the faulty ones) are much higher quality (can be seen by the gold stripe) and will last you many years.

Cheap capacitors have a lower temperature rating and if the electrolytic formula is not exactly right they can even fail after a few months. It all depends on how well made they are. They can last months or 3+ years like yours. I had a DFI motherboard back in 2001 that lasted for 6 years and then lots of capacitors (but all of the same size, the others were fine) started to have bulged caps and eventually the tops burst. The PC would sometimes not boot, but if you tried booting up a second time it would normally do it right - although the motherboard monitor software alerted to some insufficient voltages, but it gets worse with time.

You should replace them as soon as you can, because if the tops burst off, some of the acid contained inside could eventually damage the PCB, and then you are looking at a more expensive repair.
Edited by tpi2007 - 5/1/11 at 2:08am
 
Metro 2033 review
Metro 2033
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7-3820 Asus Sabertooth X79 MSI GTX 750 Ti TF Gaming 16 GB Corsair DDR3 1866 Mhz Dominator 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung SSD 830 128GB + WD Caviar Black 1TB Sony Optiarc DVD-RW Corsair A70 + Noiseblocker M12-P Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
BenQ RL2455HM Cooler Master Octane Corsair AX750 Professional Modular 80 Plus Gold Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus 
Mouse
Cooler Master Octane 
  hide details  
Reply
 
Metro 2033 review
Metro 2033
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7-3820 Asus Sabertooth X79 MSI GTX 750 Ti TF Gaming 16 GB Corsair DDR3 1866 Mhz Dominator 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung SSD 830 128GB + WD Caviar Black 1TB Sony Optiarc DVD-RW Corsair A70 + Noiseblocker M12-P Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
BenQ RL2455HM Cooler Master Octane Corsair AX750 Professional Modular 80 Plus Gold Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus 
Mouse
Cooler Master Octane 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14 of 119
P13121-ND 1000uF 25V, 10000 Hrs @ 105°C, -40°C ~ 105°C, .87 ea
P13123-ND 330µF 25V, 10000 Hrs @ 105°C, -40°C ~ 105°C, .53 ea
post #15 of 119
Thank you Dricks for this detailed guide on fixing this monitor.

I have 2 of them and 1 started to flicker, so after reading your guide, I decided to give it a shot (after all I was going to throw it away and buy a new one, so no harm if I were to F&*% it up...lol).

Everyday it was getting longer and longer (it took 8 hours to come on one day), so I decided to leave the monitor on 24/7 as my PC is always on. Then one day in my drunken state, I decided to turn things off, and the next day I turned the monitor on, after 3 days the flickering hadn't stopped (lucky I had the other monitor).

Before the capacitors arrived, my other monitor started flikering for 10 secs and I was spewing I didn't order enough for both (so from then on the second monitor would have to stay on... lol) The Capacitors arrived and I got excited and straight to work. Unfortunately my soldering skills are not that crash hot (not pun intented) and unfortunately I think I may have fried the board itself.

Oh Well, next step.... I saw on eBay, there was the Power board available to purchase itself, so $46 (x2, as I ordered for the other monitor also) and 3 weeks later, they arrived and once again I got excited, used your guide again to take apart the monitor and got to work.

The next thing that made me laugh (and cry) was the part on the power board which you plug into, was slightly different, it had a switch on the new one. The old one didn't, not being detered, I got out the 'Dremel', took the other chip board off and got stuck into it. Put it all together and.........

IT WORKS.... lol

Then I started on the second monitor and after dremeling the hole bigger, I started putting it back together and it needed a little more shaved off. Stupid me was in a hurry and decided to leave the other chip board in there whilst dremeling the hole a little bigger and I think the vibrations may have affected the other chip board and although the second monitor is working, it is a little pixelated.

Do you think this is what happened or something different? Can the second chip board be ordered?

Also on another note:
Quote:
3/ unclip the left metal plate (with a screwdriver, it works great) and remove the 4 little cables. Write down their order and colors so that you won't forget it at mount time.

On the first monitor, my cables were exactly like yours (red on the outsides), however on the second monitor, they were different, the red ones were on the top on both, put it back how I found it though. What would happen if I put them back wrong?

Thanks for listening to my long winded story.... lol (I find it funny). smile.gif

DeeLaa
post #16 of 119
Thread Starter 
I lost track of this old thread, but I saw it again and wanted to thank Dricks for such a detailed guide. I haven't actually tried it yet - I've been pretty happy with my replacement monitor (Asus VW246H) but I'll give it a try - can't have too many good monitors.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500k @ 4.6 Extreme4 p67 1070 Gaming X 4x4 ripjaws X 1600 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
850 EVO, 6TB Hitach/WD Xigmatek Aegir Win7 Shimian 27" 1440p 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Antec TP650 HAF 922 G400s (RIP 518) Puretrak Stealth 
Audio
Soundblaster Z 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500k @ 4.6 Extreme4 p67 1070 Gaming X 4x4 ripjaws X 1600 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
850 EVO, 6TB Hitach/WD Xigmatek Aegir Win7 Shimian 27" 1440p 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Antec TP650 HAF 922 G400s (RIP 518) Puretrak Stealth 
Audio
Soundblaster Z 
  hide details  
Reply
post #17 of 119
Thanks Dricks, Sadly it still doesn't work...

Maybe someone can help me?


Here is the story:

I to, have a bw226 monitor. One of the later models I guess. Cuze after a morning it wouldn't start anymore (before it toke more then 5 minutes) and so I toke it appart.

Mine has 3 big 820 capacitors (set in a triangle figur, arround a wiered looking capacitor) and a 330 smal one. They where all blown, so I replaced them with 3 1000uF 25v and a 330 35v from the local elc. store. The rest of the capacitors looks fine.

Then I plugged the monitor in, and nothing happend.
I think I can fairly say I have medium soldering skills.

So today I got the ones you used, the 820uf 35v via ebay, and solderd those in. Plugged it in and nothing happend, again.

What can be the problem?
I only have a simple multimeter at my disposal and a soldering iron.
Is this monitor still saveable? Or did I destroyed it?

Thanks for listening,smile.gif
Greatings, Clibelle
post #18 of 119
LOL its great seeing this thread show up. I have the exact same issue with the exact same monitor. It all started happening about 3 weeks ago, with it taking about 30 minutes to come up, now it takes hours upon hours.

I might try to fix it myself, but I am beginning to lean towards getting a new monitor all together tongue.gif
post #19 of 119
Thanks for the info. I am attempting this repair...in step 3, how do you get those 4 little cables loose? I can wiggle them but they're not coming off.
post #20 of 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryandaste;15590014 
Thanks for the info. I am attempting this repair...in step 3, how do you get those 4 little cables loose? I can wiggle them but they're not coming off.

You should be able to pinch the connector together and pull it out, else you can put a flat-head screw driver under the tab and carefully pry it up.

I don't mean to pry my own tutorial, but I do actually use this monitor for the subject of my "in depth" tutorial. I try to keep the tutorial very general so it can apply to most monitors, but you may find some useful information in it. Let us know how this goes!
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Neckpain
(12 items)
 
LAN rig
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4930k Sabertooth x79 Nvidia 650ti Corsair Vengeance 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
H100 Linux Mint ASUS 21.5" CMSTORM Quick Fire 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Enermax 1050W Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Logitech Performance MX Xonar DX 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A10 5800K ASRock FM2A75M-ITX AMD Radeon HD 7660D samsung wonder ram 
Optical DriveCoolingOSOS
None Stock Linux Mint 14 64bit Windows Server 2012 
  hide details  
Reply
Neckpain
(12 items)
 
LAN rig
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4930k Sabertooth x79 Nvidia 650ti Corsair Vengeance 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
H100 Linux Mint ASUS 21.5" CMSTORM Quick Fire 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Enermax 1050W Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Logitech Performance MX Xonar DX 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A10 5800K ASRock FM2A75M-ITX AMD Radeon HD 7660D samsung wonder ram 
Optical DriveCoolingOSOS
None Stock Linux Mint 14 64bit Windows Server 2012 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Samsung 226BW flickers for a few minutes when powering on