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Samsung 226BW flickers for a few minutes when powering on - Page 4

post #31 of 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter777 View Post

I followed your instructions and replaced all of those crappy capXon capasitors, and the monitor is working like brand new! Thank you very much! €10 on electronics and I saved myself €190 on a decent monitor!! thumb.gif

I'm glad to hear it, but may I ask how you went about it? Did you use different replacements? Or did you replace other caps that didn't look bad?
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post #32 of 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fir3Chi3f View Post

I'm glad to hear it, but may I ask how you went about it? Did you use different replacements? Or did you replace other caps that didn't look bad?

I replaced them all. If 1 goes, they all go is my experience with amplifiers. And from what I've read about capXon it was a pretty easy decision. And why measure them, while there are only a few to replace. I replaced them with the same specs caps.
post #33 of 122
So i also have a 226bw but it doesnt look exactly like the boards in the pictures you guys have, it has 3 820s and a 330 in one corner and 2 820s in the middle, the 3 820s and the 330 in the corner were blown and one of the middle ones were as well, i finally got a chance to buy all the correct parts and a soldering iron and did everything to my best ability despite never using a soldering gun and made sure it didnt overlap onto other parts of the board and its still not working, any ideas? i would really not like to hear i spent 30$ on stuff to fix it and not be able to.
post #34 of 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poptartsicle View Post

So i also have a 226bw but it doesnt look exactly like the boards in the pictures you guys have, it has 3 820s and a 330 in one corner and 2 820s in the middle, the 3 820s and the 330 in the corner were blown and one of the middle ones were as well, i finally got a chance to buy all the correct parts and a soldering iron and did everything to my best ability despite never using a soldering gun and made sure it didnt overlap onto other parts of the board and its still not working, any ideas? i would really not like to hear i spent 30$ on stuff to fix it and not be able to.

First and foremost, I would recommend posting your own thread with pictures of what you've done. They don't have to be the best pictures, just best you can get, and a description of what the monitor is doing. At this point, the most anyone here could suggest is guess work of most likely cases.

And just like everyone else, please review the sticky in the Monitor and Displays on the topic.

Edit: I did want to add that I know the tutorial can be a little dense, but we are all here trying to help one another. With a picture and a description I think I could be a lot more helpful thumb.gif
Edited by Fir3Chi3f - 12/12/11 at 8:34pm
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post #35 of 122
My board looks just like the one in dricks pic.
I ordered caps with the exact same values as the ones I was replacing
and the ones I received were the same size too.
When I had the board off I noticed that the 3 caps dricks mentioned were bulged but the other 2 closer to the center of the board and spaced farther apart were bulged worse and leaking red stuff from the top so I ordered all 5 caps.

I used these:
http://www.amazon.com/680uf-Capacitor-105c-Radial-Leads/dp/B0052GLYQQ
http://www.amazon.com/820uf-Capacitor-105c-Radial-Leads/dp/B004MCPK8E
http://www.amazon.com/330uF-High-Temp-Radial-Capacitor/dp/B0002ZP9CM/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1321912187&sr=1-2-catcorr

These pics are of the two that were leaking

450

450

450

These are the three caps that dricks said to change

450

The cap on the right has the biggest bulge on top but all three were bulged.
All the capacitors came from different suppliers and the 4 big ones arrived first.
I changed those and waited for the small one (330).
Replacing the 2-820s and the 2-680s fixed the monitor but I changed the 330 when it arrived a few days later anyway.

So all 5 caps w/shipping were about $23.
I had a soldering iron but I had to spend $6 on electrical solder.

Total cost for repair about $30

I suck at soldering but this worked great.

Thanks dricks, I wouldn't have even tried it without your guide.
post #36 of 122
A google search brought me here. I was having the exact same problem as the original poster and ended up buying a new 24" Samsung LED.
I was going to throw my 226BW in the trash but thought I would try replacing the capacitors first. After taking it apart I could see the rounded tops on all 4 capacitors that Dricks mentioned. For some reason I have an extra capacitor in my monitor.

A bag of 10 1000uF and a bag of 10 330uF cost a grand total of $5.78 (including shipping)
A soldering iron and a roll of flux was around $30

Happy to say that my 226BW works like brand new!!!
I have never done any electronic circuit board repair or soldered before so I watched a couple of YouTube videos for pointers. My soldering IMO was pretty messy especially compared to the original capacitors that were soldered on the board by the manufacturer so I was a bit unsure if my repair would work but it fired up right away and works great now.

I would like to thank everyone who posted in this thread, especially Dricks for the awesome guide. I now have TWO monitors running side by side off of the same video card since I bought a new Samsung just in case. Anyway, it worked out great and I couldn't be happier; I don't think I can ever go back to just one monitor now! biggrin.gif
post #37 of 122
Hi, I'm from New Zealand and seem to have the exact same problem.

What should I be looking for in terms of quality brands from somewhere like here: http://nz.element14.com/aluminium-electrolytic

820 and 330
post #38 of 122
I ordered rubycon caps from there, they're pretty good, and the panasonics arre good too, either will be fine

I had this exact issue with an old Viewsonic screen, this started happening so i replaced them with caps from a local electronics store (Jaycar), would work perfectly for 6 months then suddenly when you turned it on from cold it would come on, go off (sleep mode type thing), back on, off, on, off, etc gradually getting worse over time (start with it'd only do it a few times, by the end it could be on for hours before it started working).

After replacing them for the 4th time (always the same couple of caps bulging) and noticing a few "others" going too (especially the "main" 240v filter cap thats massive and jaycar didn't stock) i decided to get some better quality caps, ordered like 3x what i needed (expecting too have to replace them down the line at some point again) but no.....those caps from element14 are still going strong for 2 years...

Just goes to show the quality of jaycars caps eh
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Liquid Dreams
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post #39 of 122
I purchased my monitor in December 2007. It started flickering and then died December 2011. It had 3 820 uf 25V (C111, C112, and C114) and 1 330 uf 25V (C113) capacitors . The capicitors all had a slight bulge on the top. I did not replace capacitors that did not have the bulge in other parts of the board.

I replaced them with the exact same physical size capacitors I purchased from Digikey. The 820 uf capacitor is part # P14423-ND and is 10x20 mm with 5 mm lead spacing. The 330 uf capacitor is part # P12386-ND and is 10x12.5 mm with 5 mm lead spacing.

To remove the defective capacitor I heated the junction and tilted the capacitor until the lead came out. To solder it in I put the lead in the hole and heated the junction until it punched through. It is critical that the negative side goes through the proper hole. Draw a picture that shows where the negative side goes before taking the old ones out and make sure it matches when you replace with the new.
post #40 of 122
Just wanted to say thanks for the links. Helped me purchase what I needed.

I ordered the Rubycon ones from Amazon. They were the same size as the originals.

If you're like me and have no idea what the hell you're doing with the soldering iron. I say take a plunge into this. It's pretty easy.
  1. Apply some pressure on the caps you want to take off. Take your soldering iron and hold it against the solder. One lead will come out. Do the same for the other.
  2. Take a toothpick. Apply the iron to the left over solder and then poke the toothpick through to open the hole.
  3. Your caps will have a lead longer than the other. The long one is the positive one. Take a look at the circuit board, there will be a positive sign. The positive lead should go through that hole.

I'm happy I don't need to leave this monitor on at night.
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