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good water cooling for under £185 - £230

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
Its a choice of watercooling or the SB X-FI FATAL1TY FPS... If i get the watercooling the sound will have to wait for a little longer... Anyway..

Well i got the big typhoon 3 case fans, chipset and gfx fan and my pc is loud!!

So i need some good cooling and advice from the pros here at Overclock.net
The big typhoon gets me 28 - 32c idle temps on my CPU which is great as my old fan was 48c idle But seen as i need silence for these late nights can someone advise me on what i should get...

Stores for custom kits in uk...

link: http://www.coolercases.co.uk/
link: http://www.componentsuk.co.uk/catalog/

Things im worried about is leakage and putting it together... As i dont know how the hell to tighten or fix the thingys around the pipes... And what to cut the pipes with...

Another thing - Do i need a northbridge fan as its almost 18dba thats more noise then my cpu BT!! And I just hate it... Anyway to see the temps? Thanks everyone reps will be given if i feel the need to do so
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post #2 of 22
I just priced a custom kit from "coolercases" and it came to 181. That included chipset and vid blocks.
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post #3 of 22
Thread Starter 
Under budget thing is I may want to overclock to 4ghz and the fans for the watercooling i hope totals 13 - 20dba or lower as i have 3 fans inside one i may decide to remove BUT they are only around 5dba each for 120mm fans

Can anyone link to items they suggest remember i will need EVERYTHING this includes dye.. coolent... etc...
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post #4 of 22
watercoolinguk.co.uk have a watercooling kit for 90 quid i think they are prebuilt. i used zip/cable ties to hold the tubing on the barbs. XSPC rads u can mount two 120 fans on the small one. i have attached pic of my XSPC rad.
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post #5 of 22
You mean you will only buy from those two shops? (coolercases and componentsuk) Why?

http://overclock.co.uk/customer/prod...roductid=18645
post #6 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffin
You mean you will only buy from those two shops? (coolercases and componentsuk) Why?

http://overclock.co.uk/customer/prod...roductid=18645
Ya but are them pre made kits any good?
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post #7 of 22
Well, the block and the pump are about the best comercially available (Apogee and MCP655), and the radiator is no slouch, it uses 1/2" ID tubing...what more can you want?
post #8 of 22
Thread Starter 
Anyone else think this is good?
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post #9 of 22
Thread Starter 
I think i want to go with a kit.. Few questions...

Do i have to put it together outside the case first or can i use a towel inside my case as a lot of people I know did that...

What is the amount of time it would take to see if there is any leaks?

How do you fill up the pump or res?

What tool do you use to tighten down the pipes?

And is there any kit that i can have inside the case i dont want a MASSIVE thing outside...

Thanks
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post #10 of 22
I have last years version of that kit. Storm waterblock and a different res. It is an awesome kit.
Easiest way to install is to dry fit all the parts in the rig except tubing. Hold tubing up and cut pieces to size. Remove all parts and fit it together outside of the case. Keeping the res higher than the other parts slowly fill it and watch as water starts to fill the tubes...as water flows from the res add a little more and keep this up till gravity stops working. Then fire up the pump off your psu and it should suck the water out of the res....add more water as needed. when the pump stops cavating(making gurgling sounds) and the water level in the res stops dropping the system is full. Cap the res. Take the rad and turn it sideways and back slowly a few times to be sure there is no air trapped inside it.
Now if everything fits inside the case you can install it as is. If not then you will have to disasemble and reinstall.
It is suggested to run the system for 24hrs to test for leaks. I think thats a bit much...but whatever you feel comfortable with.
The res will have a fillport of some kind on it. Probably a screw top.
Tools required will depend on the clamps you get. I use auto style screw clamps that require a flat blade screwdriver. There are also snap clips that use hand pressure or squeezing with needle nose pliers. I use the metal screw type because I trust then more than a plastic clip. Some say they cut tubing(and they can) but if you get thick wall tubing then you would have to be really rough and tighten the crap out of it way more than needed. Tygon hosing is a tight fit over the barbs and made of a soft ruber to seal well.
A word of advise....when measuring tubing cut it longer than needed because you can always shorten it...and sometimes the tubing doesn't want to come off the barbs and it is easier to cut the inch off and slice the side of the tube to remove it. If you have to disasemble and reasemble this is fastest way. Just cut the tubing at the barb and slice it off. Don't ask how I know this...
Let me know if i can help with anything else.
Busa's Opti
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel E6700 P5W DH Deluxe Wifi BFG 7800gtx 2g pc6400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x WD 74G raptors in raid0 NEC 3520 winXP sp2 Dell 24" widescreen LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Z board w/bf2 keyset Zeus 650sli+450 dual booting UFO Opti1203 blk/UV blue logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Xtrack "ripper" 
  hide details  
Reply
Busa's Opti
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel E6700 P5W DH Deluxe Wifi BFG 7800gtx 2g pc6400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x WD 74G raptors in raid0 NEC 3520 winXP sp2 Dell 24" widescreen LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Z board w/bf2 keyset Zeus 650sli+450 dual booting UFO Opti1203 blk/UV blue logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Xtrack "ripper" 
  hide details  
Reply
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