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The correct way to bleed a watercooling loop? - Page 3

post #21 of 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex98uk View Post
I found running with the lid open was a bad idea. If a big bubble came up, sometimes the fluid overflowed or dust and general crud got into the loop.
I guess it depends on how clean the room is.

I also close the case so it's harder for anything to enter the loop.

I suppose there is no hard and fast rule to remove bubbles.

There are various methods and different methods suit different setups.
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post #22 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by its my first time View Post
Well so you guys know, I left my pc running with the res lid open, and the majority of bubbles are gone.

I didn't need to tilt case, shake case or anything else.

Thanks for all the advice.

Hopefully others who have the same problem will find this thread useful.
i did indeed. Thanks for creating this thread!
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post #23 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by its my first time View Post
That is any watercoolers worst nightmare
But the red dye was totally worth it!

OT: I don't understand why your loop won't bleed completely. I would try knocking on wherever the air wont break. I had some small air bubbles in my rad that shaking wouldn't break loose, so I started hitting the side of my rad til the air sounds went away. BTW, I wouldn't run the water to the very top of the res, but pretty close. From what I've observed about my loop, you want some space at top for any air to go if bubbles break loose while the loop is on. Them, imply cracking the fill port will release the pressure. Once all air is out, filling tot he top can't hurt, but actually help the vacuum and pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by its my first time View Post
Well so you guys know, I left my pc running with the res lid open, and the majority of bubbles are gone.

I didn't need to tilt case, shake case or anything else.

Thanks for all the advice.

Hopefully others who have the same problem will find this thread useful.
How is your rad oriented? Horizontal or vertical. If its horizontal, the tipping forward, shaking trick might be handy for gettign the rad to complely fill int he first place. I have a thick 360 rad sitting horizontal, and to fill completely required a full res and a loop that was pretty much full, and as soon as I tipped it forward and was shaking and hitting at same time, I could watch my res lower as the rad filled more. Because the system was running, the pressure from the pump kept the water in there good, and topping it off and capping the res allows the loop to maintain the pressure.If I were to do that with the loop off, the water that filled the rad would flow right back out when case was let back down. I noticed great temp decreases by getting rad 100% full, and it took awhile to get ll air out. My loop still sound slike a fish tank first 10 secs its on everytime I turn it on, lol.

Just a small tip in case.
Edited by SwishaMane - 4/24/10 at 10:15am
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post #24 of 36
Putting the reservoir at the highest point in the loop when designing your build is by far the easiest way to side step this -and not allowing any piece of tubing or anything to be higher. Then, over a few days, all the air goes into the reservoir.

To help this a micro-hole in the top of the reservoir helps. Mine has a hole with a thread, and a bolt that fits into the thread.

In the first few days you leave the bolt slack, and this allows air in and out.

THen you seal it once all the air has left the loop.
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post #25 of 36
I hook it to a seperate PSU (old 480 I have), then on/off a bunch of times. The little ones I never worry about, I got a big one in the CPU block and I was really patient, for a while, then I got ticked, whacked the side of my case (open hand, never use a fist on an innocent computer ), then it belched and the bubble came out.
No, I never top off a res.
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post #26 of 36
sorry to resurect this thread, but as per a previous comment to add a small ammount of soap, i did that and now have soap suds flowing though everything.

am i just screwed and need to buy a new rad/pump since no matter how much i clean thme with distilled water, i get suds though my loop and in the lines...
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post #27 of 36
there's a bleeding screw on TFC Xchanger's radiators..what's the point in that? when you unscrew it a bit, water leaks out...
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post #28 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecaftermath View Post
there's a bleeding screw on TFC Xchanger's radiators..what's the point in that? when you unscrew it a bit, water leaks out...
That's the point....


When you take your loop apart it's usually pretty hard to drain all of the water out, but with this screw it becomes easy.

Alternatively you can use it when you are filling your loop if you suspect some air is trapped in it.
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post #29 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweak17emon View Post
but as per a previous comment to add a small ammount of soap, i did that and now have soap suds flowing though everything.

am i just screwed and need to buy a new rad/pump since no matter how much i clean thme with distilled water, i get suds though my loop and in the lines...
bump for answer.
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post #30 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweak17emon View Post
bump for answer.
You could either hook it up to a tap and just let water run through it for hours or get something that neutralizes soap.

I'd go with the first option.
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