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(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod. - Page 40

post #391 of 403
Hello guys btw @ fateful _Ikkou I love the res mods you did.. wink.gif
Attempting to cool my crossfired 6950s with one clc kit.

I have been all over the web for about 2 months and just found this thread on OCN. It could have saved me reading about 1000 posts. :>
First let me apologise for posting here as there is no forum that i can find that has done this but here.
The original gpu mod post was what brought me to OCN about 2 months ago while i was doing research for cooling my cards.

I dont have a posting service yet but hope to have full photos up on my build log this weekend.
Im attempting a dual gpu red/mod with a simular pump the Thermaltake water 2.0 pro. 49mm rad. It was so nice to finally find all the answers
in one place.

i had to guess at while buying my parts. I found these posts tonight as i get ready to cut my hose on the thermaltake. Yes its a thermaltake.
I bought the thermaltake water 2.0 extreme when they first came out after i found out Asetech sp? made them. I use it on my 8210 on a sabertooth.
I was going to cool one gpu card the 6950 but then i got a 2nd on sale.

I went to swiftech and found a heatsink that was out of stock and after emailing michelle@swiftech and telling her the guys here doing the gpu mods
could use a good heatsink she had some made for me. I had to wait for them to be manufactured about 7 weeks.

However to fit the pump you have to mod the heatsink. For the 2nd card I have
a second swiftech hd6900-hs heatsink with the universal gpu block. I bought a lot of parts as i didnt know what to get and wanted to do this
in one shot.
I have 1/2 inch fittings also plus various watercooling parts. Im sure ill use the extra parts later. After a lot of research and naysayers,
I installed the modded heatsink on the first card, then the unmodded
heatsink on the 2nd card with the gpu block and bitspower 1/4 fittings.
I origonally bought danger den however they were very loose and would have
stripped my threads out. when they were manufactured, they didnt plate
the threaded area enough and its undersized. I first called danger den and they wanted me to call back on monday this was at 5:00 on a friday.
I called swiftech and talked to stephen@swiftech. He suggested frozencpu and they shipped my stuff out in 20 min
so i would make the last ship on friday. That was 2 weeks ago.

Then my Thermaltake water 2.0 pro came in and upon inspection one of the hose connectors on the radiator was not on properly. Since i was going to mod it i almost didnt send it back but they use a pressed plastic hose connector and i didnt know if the
hose and a clamp would seal it. So thermaltake suggested i rma it. Newegg sent me a rma and I purchased a ups ship label and newegg said since it was defective they would cover the ship.
Finally got the new cooler in this week and im ready to cut the hose and hack it up. After reading these posts i have the courgage. :>
here is the link for the swiftech heatsinks i got. http://www.swiftech.com/hd6900-hs.aspx these accept a 60mm fan.

I have
2 video cards fully modded exept for mounting the pump to the first card cutting the hose and plumbing the 2nd card.
the radiator and fans are installed but i just noticed the hoses are on the bottom of the rad. so i will move them to the top.
Just upgraded the 200mm fans in my coolermaster haf 22 to benifix pro 900rpm fans for better cooling on my sabertooth.
pt nuke, silvercoil and 3 gallons of distilled water just in case. I had some phobya coolant but then i saw the photos from EK showing the
buildup of a lot of coolant manufacturers. So its back to distilled water with anti corosion and anti fungal.
swiftech mini res version 2
temp probe on the botom of the mini res
Ill be using zip ties tonight as i am waiting on my pump retention kit from chmodlabs.. turns out he had the wrong email. Doh!
He has some cool mounts for the gpu mod.
I also have some black tygon tubing
koolance quick disconect 1/4 fittings so i can remove res after i get the system purged of air.
it will allow me to pull cards out of system if one has issues with no spill.

On my case i mounted the thermaltake water 2.0 extreme on the top of the case on the outside.
There was not enough room to put the fans and the radiator.
Im currently using a 200mm fan on the inside top and the fans in the kit for the outside top of the rad. .
However Ill prob get 2 more fans for underneath the rad.

Currently slaming some frappuchhino to stay up as its 2:50. wish me luck. Ill post photos and results after i get some sleep.
Thanks again for everyone that posted here...
Sunset1
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post #392 of 403






20°c drop on my 6970 overclocked.. AMD Phenom 1090t at default speed more or less still the same temp with unmodified h50, but I have a good feeling it will be better once I feeel I want to OC my processor. =)

Experience: My Phobya pump can not work by itself I had to turn on the H50 without its impeller to make the loop run smoothly. =)

Thanks for the tip Willhemmens. ^^
Edited by k_orbz - 9/16/12 at 1:26pm
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post #393 of 403
wow thanks for the pics. Looks really nice.
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post #394 of 403
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by k_orbz View Post




20°c drop on my 6970 overclocked.. AMD Phenom 1090t at default speed more or less still the same temp with unmodified h50, but I have a good feeling it will be better once I feeel I want to OC my processor. =)
Experience: My Phobya pump can not work by itself I had to turn on the H50 without its impeller to make the loop run smoothly. =)
Thanks for the tip Willhemmens. ^^

wow, thats a sexy setup, what res is that?
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post #395 of 403
@xenomorph113 - It's called XSPC 150mm Passive Reservoir.. I was actually thinking using the Zalman Reserator 1 as my reservoir but this one popped in on ebay used.. That's why its silver and not blue. =/

More Pics..












Edited by k_orbz - 9/17/12 at 3:54pm
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post #396 of 403
Wow, cool mod.

1. How does this possibly reduce temps more than stock? I dont understand how does possibly just changing out the tubes, and adding a water-holder (reservoir), reduces temps? If anything wouldnt water pressure go down because of more distance to travel, thus increasing temps?

2. Why do this mod? Is it just for looks? do you do it to reduce temps, because i dont see how it would reduce temps logically etc.

3. couldnt you just take like 2 H50's and combine them for double pump power, so you could do something like cool your cpu and GPU and other things? That'd be cheaper than a standard custom loop system, right? Or could you have a gpu cooler off a single pump using this kind of mod?

im a bit confused on why the OP chose to do this. I mean, great that the temps fell, but whered he think "hey if i change my tubes, ill get better cooling"?
     
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post #397 of 403
Looks gr8. I'd be interested to know if you took a 'before shot' and 'after shot' of the CPU temps and how much if any it's brought them down. Looks the goods though mate. thumb.gif
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post #398 of 403
Hum... seen this topic and had to post, i've done something similar but with a twist:



Used a 5 1/4" bay res, belive i used 500ml of coolant (50% destilled water and 50% car coolant) also i'll add to the topic that the H50 only has about 100ml of coolant inside.
post #399 of 403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Wow, cool mod.
1. How does this possibly reduce temps more than stock? I dont understand how does possibly just changing out the tubes, and adding a water-holder (reservoir), reduces temps? If anything wouldnt water pressure go down because of more distance to travel, thus increasing temps?

2. Why do this mod? Is it just for looks? do you do it to reduce temps, because i dont see how it would reduce temps logically etc.

3. couldnt you just take like 2 H50's and combine them for double pump power, so you could do something like cool your cpu and GPU and other things? That'd be cheaper than a standard custom loop system, right? Or could you have a gpu cooler off a single pump using this kind of mod?

im a bit confused on why the OP chose to do this. I mean, great that the temps fell, but whered he think "hey if i change my tubes, ill get better cooling"?

1: A: i believe the major difference is that by adding a res you can now get the rad completely full of fluid, when the loop is closed (stock h50) it is only about 65-80% full to allow for fluid expansion when the heat level increases, the additional 20%-35% fluid increase through the rad increases its potential cooling. once all the air is out of the loop the flow/pressure is increased and this also helps the cooling potential.

2: A: see answer 1

3: A: i spliced 3 H series closed loops together to get my cpu and 2x videocards, it worked, just not nearly as well as a custom loop. major issue is that the H series pumps only move about ~1-2 liter per minute (60-120L per hour) [even in serial] which is very low compared to a D5 pump (rated at 1200L/hour). once you start watercooling multiple parts the H mods don't cool as well as going custom loop, unless you pull out the impeller from the H series block and add a separate, more powerful, pump... but if your gonna start adding extra pumps/blocks why not just start with a custom loop?
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post #400 of 403
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenomorph113 View Post

but if your gonna start adding extra pumps/blocks why not just start with a custom loop?

Sometimes its wiser to use what you have and just add some parts.. Personally I think its better to use what you have and just add a bit more especially if your components are slowly being dragged down by age. Mine is 2years old already, I don't want to upgrade components just yet and I just want to solve the temp issue on my 6970, which my loop really did.) Overall I'm happy plus saved me about £60-£80 as well.
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