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post #2751 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Insan1tyOne View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

HDMI direct off of my main Fury. I've gotten into the habit of just using Google Play Music Desktop that I managed to do Speaker Fill (no idea how, it wont for other computers like my laptop) for the 320kbps streams.

Hmm that is actually an interesting idea that I have never considered before. I wonder what it would sound like if someone used the HDMI port on a GPU to go directly to a DAC as an HDMI I2S connection from their PC instead of using USB or Optical? That would be a really interesting test I think... I'm not sure I have ever heard of someone doing that before.


- Insan1tyOne eek.gif


All three are digital. HDMI just has more bandwidth. Perhaps less encoding required.

Note that i'm using a DN 500AV, a pre-amp Reciver, not just a DAC. HDMI can not send just audio, it'll make a 'phantom screen' in your OS.
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post #2752 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Insan1tyOne View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Someday maybe I will lay down the cash for an LH Labs Lightspeed 10G USB Cable or an Audioquest Diamond USB Cable... But, today is not that day! Although if you are worried about noisy USB interference coming from your PC I would say either buy a USB Isolator or just don't worry about it. It is my opinion that as long as you use high quality components when building your PC then it shouldn't be a problem at all. Although I think if I wasn't using an Mini-ITX PC I would use a separate USB or I2S card.

Here are the three products that I 100% recommend if you are looking at using your "daily use" or "gaming" machine as the source for your audio:

1.) The Intona USB Isolator (Industrial Edition): http://intona.eu/en/products
2.) The SOtM tX-USBexp Audiophile PCIE USB Card: http://www.sotm.sonore.us/SOtM3.html
2A.) You should also consider getting the external power-supply for the SOtM tX-USBexp: http://www.sotm.sonore.us/SOtM1.html#3

OR if USB is not your thing then I would recommend:

1.) The Pink Faun I2S PCIE Bridge: http://www.pinkfaun.nl/portal/productaanbod/dac-streaming-audio/1440-i2s-bridge

I have looked as these devices many times, but maybe if I ever move back to an mATX PC I will get one.

What audio equipment did you buy/get today:

As for me, I finally got tired of my current living spaces "dirty" power connections and ground connections to the wall outlets. It has been causing my gear to hiss and hum. So, I went out and purchased a few things the solve all of my power-related issues:

1.) PS Audio P300 Power Plant: http://www.stereophile.com/powerlineaccessories/181/#x5PTDcjoZ667fTvw.97
2.) (1x) Pangea Audio AC14SE MK II Power Cable 4.0M: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGAC14S2&opt=3636
3.) (2x) Pangea Audio AC14SE MK II Power Cable 1.5M: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGAC14S2&opt=3633

I should be receiving all of these items on Friday, so I am quite excited!

- Insan1tyOne thumb.gif

That Sonore USB card is awfull, you better get one from PPA. These are really a lot better (and cheaper as well).
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post #2753 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Narremans View Post

That Sonore USB card is awfull, you better get one from PPA. These are really a lot better (and cheaper as well).

Oh yes I always forget about Paul Pang, his V4 card is definitely superior to the SOtM card... I just need to remember that it exists! Thank you for that reminder.

- Insan1tyOne thumb.gif
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post #2754 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Insan1tyOne View Post

Oh yes I always forget about Paul Pang, his V4 card is definitely superior to the SOtM card... I just need to remember that it exists! Thank you for that reminder.

- Insan1tyOne thumb.gif

His V3 as well (same TCXO clock, different layout). Last November I upgraded my DDC to his latest version (same TCXO as the V3/4) really amazing together with my Classe Omega Pre thumb.gif
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post #2755 of 3104
Just had to jump in here:

What the heck are you guys doing? The more software/hardware you put between the original performance and you ears the worse it will sound. There is no software nor hardware that makes SQ better, the best just makes it "less worse". You're using expensive stuff as an equalizer, and the only legitimate purpose of equalization is to fix mistakes.

Computer memory ---> DAC ---> Amp. Period.

Coments?
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post #2756 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Just had to jump in here:

What the heck are you guys doing? The more software/hardware you put between the original performance and you ears the worse it will sound. There is no software nor hardware that makes SQ better, the best just makes it "less worse". You're using expensive stuff as an equalizer, and the only legitimate purpose of equalization is to fix mistakes.

Computer memory ---> DAC ---> Amp. Period.

Coments?

DACs color sound. Amps color sound. Speakers are not perfect. All of this plays a part in some things sounding better than others.

If you can test all your equipment, you'll notice that there are imperfections, they aren't flat. My Vegas are bass heavy for example. Once you test the curve with a simple freq test, you can compensate for it with an equalizer, make it as flat as possible. It's job is, in addition to fixing problems in recording, compensating for the hardware's flaws. Set it and forget it.

For what it's worth, digital is digital. You are not losing bits just because it goes from, say, RAM -> GPU -> DAC. All modern systems are packet-based. The loss comes from encoding (like older Optical relies on for larger speaker configs due to it's lower bit-rate) and it's effect on actually losing data.
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post #2757 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Just had to jump in here:

What the heck are you guys doing? The more software/hardware you put between the original performance and you ears the worse it will sound. There is no software nor hardware that makes SQ better, the best just makes it "less worse". You're using expensive stuff as an equalizer, and the only legitimate purpose of equalization is to fix mistakes.

Computer memory ---> DAC ---> Amp. Period.

Coments?

DACs color sound. Amps color sound. Speakers are not perfect. All of this plays a part in some things sounding better than others.

If you can test all your equipment, you'll notice that there are imperfections, they aren't flat. My Vegas are bass heavy for example. Once you test the curve with a simple freq test, you can compensate for it with an equalizer, make it as flat as possible. It's job is, in addition to fixing problems in recording, compensating for the hardware's flaws. Set it and forget it.

For what it's worth, digital is digital. You are not losing bits just because it goes from, say, RAM -> GPU -> DAC. All modern systems are packet-based. The loss comes from encoding (like older Optical relies on for larger speaker configs due to it's lower bit-rate) and it's effect on actually losing data.

Wow! You and I are from different planets.............................

If your amp doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake.
If you speaker system doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake
If you DAC creates jiutter instead if reducing it you've made a mistake.
If you cables can't transmit signals with the minimum distortion possible you've made a mistake.

Not to knock "budget" or "computer" systems, but yeah, all that cost a lot of money, but if you "want to play you have to pay".
Edited by billbartuska - 2/4/16 at 8:14pm
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post #2758 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Just had to jump in here:

What the heck are you guys doing? The more software/hardware you put between the original performance and you ears the worse it will sound. There is no software nor hardware that makes SQ better, the best just makes it "less worse". You're using expensive stuff as an equalizer, and the only legitimate purpose of equalization is to fix mistakes.

Computer memory ---> DAC ---> Amp. Period.

Coments?

Generally I would agree with you on this for any other source besides USB, the shorter the cable runs between gear the better. (Coax, BNC, I2S, AES/EBU, Optical) Source --> DAC --> AMP. But in the case of USB that is simply not the case. You still want the USB runs to be short (less than 2.0M total) but upping the quality of the USB Source, as well as helping it along the way with better cables and something like the Intona USB Isolator can greatly improve the over-all quality of the USB sound. Considering that most USB ports on any source (unless it is very high quality) are very prone to noise and interference, it just makes sense to be cognizant of where your USB is coming from and how it is getting to where it is going.

The "Ideal" USB Run is: [Dedicated Music Server Source] -1.0M Cable-> [USB Isolator] -1.0M Cable-> [DAC] ---> [AMP]

Or

The lesser but still "good" run: [Any USB Source] (Preferably with upgraded USB card) -1.0M Cable-> [USB Isolator] -1.0M Cable-> [DAC] ---> [AMP]

Side Note: If you have ever experienced a straight USB line from a laptop to a DAC you have experienced true USB failure. Even my Schiit Wyrd cannot clear up the massive USB noise that my laptop storms up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Wow! You and I are from different planets.............................

If your amp doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake.
If you speaker system doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake
If you DAC creates jiutter instead if reducing it you've made a mistake.
If you cables can't transmit signals with the minimum distortion possible you've made a mistake.

Not to knock "budget" or "computer" systems, but yeah, all that cost a lot of money, but if you "want to play you have to pay".

Call me impressed but even some of the most expensive 2-channel setups ($100K+) do not have "perfectly neutral" sound. A 100% flat frequency response by any audio component is extremely rare. Speaker setups are more geared towards being "neutral" where as headphone setups are not geared quite that way. Coloring of the sound is almost encouraged I would say.

- Insan1tyOne thumb.gif
Edited by Insan1tyOne - 2/4/16 at 8:24pm
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post #2759 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Just had to jump in here:

What the heck are you guys doing? The more software/hardware you put between the original performance and you ears the worse it will sound. There is no software nor hardware that makes SQ better, the best just makes it "less worse". You're using expensive stuff as an equalizer, and the only legitimate purpose of equalization is to fix mistakes.

Computer memory ---> DAC ---> Amp. Period.

Coments?

DACs color sound. Amps color sound. Speakers are not perfect. All of this plays a part in some things sounding better than others.

If you can test all your equipment, you'll notice that there are imperfections, they aren't flat. My Vegas are bass heavy for example. Once you test the curve with a simple freq test, you can compensate for it with an equalizer, make it as flat as possible. It's job is, in addition to fixing problems in recording, compensating for the hardware's flaws. Set it and forget it.

For what it's worth, digital is digital. You are not losing bits just because it goes from, say, RAM -> GPU -> DAC. All modern systems are packet-based. The loss comes from encoding (like older Optical relies on for larger speaker configs due to it's lower bit-rate) and it's effect on actually losing data.

Wow! You and I are from different planets.............................

If your amp doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake.
If you speaker system doesn't have flat frequency response you've made a mistake
If you DAC creates jiutter instead if reducing it you've made a mistake.
If you cables can't transmit signals with the minimum distortion possible you've made a mistake.

Not to knock "budget" or "computer" systems, but yeah, all that cost a lot of money, but if you "want to play you have to pay".

*shrug*, I don't assume anything. Run a full-freq dB test. Guarantee your system is no where near perfectly flat without tweaks. Especially at extreme high and lows. If anyone managed to convince you that any out-of-box solution is, you got tricked by a cleaver sale ad. If what you say is true, then every single well-made speaker, DAC and Amp would sound exactly the same. They do not.

This thread has people thinking that a super-expensive cable carrying DIGITAL PACKET BASED DATA is needed over any not-crap cable. That they actually sound different. People buy into the hype a lot. What matters is AFTER it's analog, not before.
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post #2760 of 3104
I'm kind of like Bill. My main system takes over a half hour to warm up after I start playing music and I also bring the power that is clean. It's why we don't shoot the cones through the walls.

Remember that more power is better not enough power.
    
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