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post #2761 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Insan1tyOne View Post

Call me impressed but even some of the most expensive 2-channel setups ($100K+) do not have "perfectly neutral" sound. A 100% flat frequency response by any audio component is extremely rare. Speaker setups are more geared towards being "neutral" where as headphone setups are not geared quite that way. Coloring of the sound is almost encouraged I would say.

Two comments:
Room acoustics
Middle C on a piano and on a violin are the same frequency but sound totally different.
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post #2762 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

*shrug*, I don't assume anything. Run a full-freq dB test. Guarantee your system is no where near perfectly flat without tweaks. Especially at extreme high and lows. If anyone managed to convince you that any out-of-box solution is, you got tricked by a cleaver sale ad. If what you say is true, then every single well-made speaker, DAC and Amp would sound exactly the same. They do not.

And don't forget the room. I've seen a lot of people only spending $ on equipment and they just put everything in their living room without any acoustic preparation. Not one system will be perfectly flat but some do better then others. Here is a graph (made by someone else) of my speakers (LX521) compared to the KEF 105.2




Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

This thread has people thinking that a super-expensive cable carrying DIGITAL PACKET BASED DATA is needed over any not-crap cable. That they actually sound different. People buy into the hype a lot. What matters is AFTER it's analog, not before.

I beg to differ. I am not fond of expensive digital cables either but what a lot of people forget is that the signal itself is "analog". Depending on the change between the voltage a zero or one will "arrive" so to speak. Since I don't buy into hypes, I like to test things double blind and when I did this with a couple of USB cables it was not difficult to address the differences. Not even for two of my buddies who are not into audio.


Someone also mentioned that the signal path needs to be as short as possible, with no additional equipment in between. Again, I beg to differ. The DDC (digital to digital converter) I use before the signal enters my DAC is a lot better than most usb interfaces DAC's carry nowadays. Only a few companies understand what it takes, one of them is Berkeley which uses a galvanic isolation socket on their DDC. I have used and compared my DDC with the usb implementations of brands such as Weiss, dCS and EMM Labs and it sounds better with, then without.

I think that most people actually never even heard a decent setup biggrin.gif
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post #2763 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Narremans View Post

Someone also mentioned that the signal path needs to be as short as possible, with no additional equipment in between. Again, I beg to differ.

Aren't you just adding another clock into the digital signal path?

I use a linear power supply to power my Dragonfly.

Any audio interconnects should be longer that 10 inches (longer than 12 is better) to avoid signal bounce.
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post #2764 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Aren't you just adding another clock into the digital signal path?

I use a linear power supply to power my Dragonfly.

Any audio interconnects should be longer that 10 inches (longer than 12 is better) to avoid signal bounce.

The DDC I am using accepts USB and outputs AES. The clock used in here is very important indeed. It also helps a lot that the USB interface is better then found in most high-end DAC's.
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post #2765 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Not so much "today", but recent, I've been out a while... Drove myself down to MO and picked up a pair of CV S-2s, 200SEs, and a CV CLS-15S (amp bypassed) to go with my existing E-312s and LS-6C from our own @Hoodcom. Also picked up another Amp and some 12AWG wire to go with the rest of the assembly.

[...]

Funny thing is, I know what Hoodcom has. He wouldn't sell these to me unless he could kick their ass. He should probably join in.

You know, it was really great getting to meet you in person, great time! thumb.gif

Those speakers got a nice home, especially since they would have sit and collected dust since I've upgraded my whole system, Looking good there at your place!


Hahaha, well, the ass kicking was easy enough. biggrin.gif Very well, I'll join in. Like you, it wasn't much today, but it has been quite new regardless. All my speakers in my system are now completely DIY. Everything but the subwoofers were really a kit, where the crossover has been designed specifically for the selected components.

In this picture, was when I was getting my room back together after we had new carpeting put in the house, which I used to my advantage of just re-doing everything. For size reference, the first picture has a 52" Samsung HDTV, the second is when I got the new 55" LG OLED TV.



The LCR consists of DIY kits called the Elusive 1099s, available at DIY Soundgroup. Consisting on dual 10" woofers, dual 5" midranges, and a SEOS-10 waveguide for the compression driver. 99dB sensitivity.

Then the very left and right subwoofers, are 18" Dayton Audio RSS460HO drivers, two per 8 cubic ft enclosure in a dual opposed configuration. These will allow me to even reach down into the single digit frequency range. Great for movies and game sound effects.Though since they do roll off a little bit above 60Hz, I have the dual JBL 2242 18" drivers make up the slack in the upper bass range for the Daytons.

In this picture, which isn't showing them in their locations (I haven't taken any new ones yet), are the side surround speakers. Volt-10 LX Coaxials. They use Eminence coaxial drivers with a compression driver as well.


Then my surround backs, the Volt-6. I'm really impressed with these, for 6.5" coaxial drivers, they can really fill the room cleanly. 93dB sensitivity, and I really would love a set as main L&R speakers at my office they are so good. Just them and a subwoofer would make be perfectly happy there!


Then the heart of the system.


Which I did get to demo to @KyadCK, too bad we didn't have more time to really hang out!
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post #2766 of 3104
I'm loving the epic gaming setup more...I bet the wire management was fun smile.gif
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post #2767 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfknjadagr8 View Post

I'm loving the epic gaming setup more...I bet the wire management was fun smile.gif

Yeah that wire management ain't easy, heh. I still need to get a SCART switcher for the RGB hookup with the game consoles and the XRGB-Mini Framemeister. I also need to get longer HDMI cables to easier management between the modern consoles and the HDMI switcher. I'd have to unhook every one of them if I want to pull the shelf out and manage anything at the moment.


The next major thing I need to try to focus on next, is some actual room treatment.
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post #2768 of 3104
Nice setup Hoodcom. Have you ever performed a measurement in your room?
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post #2769 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoodcom View Post

Yeah that wire management ain't easy, heh. I still need to get a SCART switcher for the RGB hookup with the game consoles and the XRGB-Mini Framemeister. I also need to get longer HDMI cables to easier management between the modern consoles and the HDMI switcher. I'd have to unhook every one of them if I want to pull the shelf out and manage anything at the moment.


The next major thing I need to try to focus on next, is some actual room treatment.
I dunno if you knew this but you can use a switcher designed for component inputs on rgb if you use the green video input I think it is in place of the yellow video the reason I say this is because the rgb switcher usually only have 3 inputs you can get the component ones for a larger number of inputs unless there's something I'm not aware of that has a bunch of inputs
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post #2770 of 3104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Narremans View Post

Nice setup Hoodcom. Have you ever performed a measurement in your room?
Thank you.

Yes, which is the reason I plan to try some room treatments. I'm still trying to research on this and plan to try making my own panels. There's some really nice resources regarding DIY acoustic panels too. It'd be easy and cheap for me to try since my dad's business already deals with one of the types of material to use. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfknjadagr8 View Post

I dunno if you knew this but you can use a switcher designed for component inputs on rgb if you use the green video input I think it is in place of the yellow video the reason I say this is because the rgb switcher usually only have 3 inputs you can get the component ones for a larger number of inputs unless there's something I'm not aware of that has a bunch of inputs

I know I could use BNC switchers or VGA switchers (non-KVM) if I wire things up more specifically for that. I'll need something to support RGBs. Since the sync is the fourth connection here. wink.gif

Though there is a really nice SCART switcher I'd like to buy, once the pre-order comes back. It's the first one mentioned on this list here: http://retrorgb.com/scartswitches.html

Since my cables are already SCART based for the Framemeister, it'll be easier to do this. Otherwise I'll need to either buy several adapters to switch things over to VGA or BNC, or re-wire the cables myself. SCART was a pretty common choice. smile.gif

So far, I have the Sega Genesis model 1 (High Definition labeled) connected via RGB (beautiful RGB signal out of this system!), my SNES via RGB (My model isn't that great, I'm planning to get a 1 chip model that offers much better RGB out.), soon my Sega Saturn will be connected via RGB. I've also ordered an RGB cable for the playstation consoles, probably for a second PS2 or PS1. My main PS2 (fat) is connected via component, the GameCube is connected via component, and the Xbox is connected via component. Since this will allow me 480p on games that support it. (Ran through the framemeister still.).

I've sent my N64 off for the UltraHDMI mod, since this will be superior to the RGB mod, especially since the HDMI mod will tackle system specific issues on how it handles certain graphics, like the hardware anti-aliasing / blur. Then the RGB AV-Famicom should be here next week. Hopefully my Toro VGA box for the Dreamcast will arrive as well. (I'd love to get my top loader NES HDMI modded too someday.) biggrin.gif
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