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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 1345

post #13441 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Himo5 View Post

It may not be electrically necessary - I've never seen a definitive answer to the question of whether thinner wires in a cable is just a matter of cost or whether some kind of monitoring is going on - but if I'm going to change the wire gauges I like to keep the thickness differences, so I'll change a 24pin cable with 18g and 22g wires to one with 16g and 20g wires. Where it affects the appearance of the cable I have a big coil of 2.4mm 2/1 transparent heatshrink which can go over a thinner wire (with the help of some soapy water) and remove the inconsistency.

True, but I don't see a real reason why a thicker wire can't be used for the same as a thin one. Personally I just think it's a matter of practicality as thinner wires makes for less cable clutter and a more flexible cable. There is also the cost aspect that you mentioned which is insignificant per unit, but quite significant on 100k units. At any rate I doubt there will be much of a power draw from 22g wires to start with, but I don't see any reason why a 16g wire can't be used as a substitute unless there is something I'm missing. Other than the double crimped wires ofcourse, those would be a real hazzle to do with two 16g wires instead of the 16g and 22g that is used now.
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post #13442 of 14448
I have a Corsair Ax1200i that I've used 16 gauge on for years without issue. I think they use 22 gauge wires on pins that dont require hardly any current but using a heavier gauge won't affect anything.
post #13443 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Himo5 View Post

It may not be electrically necessary - I've never seen a definitive answer to the question of whether thinner wires in a cable is just a matter of cost or whether some kind of monitoring is going on - but if I'm going to change the wire gauges I like to keep the thickness differences, so I'll change a 24pin cable with 18g and 22g wires to one with 16g and 20g wires. Where it affects the appearance of the cable I have a big coil of 2.4mm 2/1 transparent heatshrink which can go over a thinner wire (with the help of some soapy water) and remove the inconsistency.

Caps DO NOT need to be kept but it does make voltage reg worse (not horrible) i should also note that the leadex that these are based from DO NOT have caps

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by baalbelphegor View Post

I have the 1000W P2 EVGA Supernova and I would like to sleeve the MOBO, CPU, and GPU's especially since they're red (ugh). The reason I didn't do extensions is because just the GPU's are red and the rest of my build is black and white.

However the cable provided is an 8pin to dual 6+2 pin and I would prefer to have 6pin to 6pin since my GPU's take two 6 pins (I would use 4 of these cables). I guess I have to at least use an 8pin on the PSU so my question is how do I know which pins to slot? I've seen a picture of an 8 pin with 6 wires in this thread but my 8pin is full due to the dual 6+2pins. I've also looked through my power supply documentation to see if they had the pin layouts but I didn't find anything.
The cables (Click to show)


Unless you can find a RELIABLE reference for the pinout (there are several on OCN; I don't know if your particular PSU is included, but I think the odds are good because it's reasonably popular), you have to remove the existing sleeving from the cable, and, making a good note of the pinout you can now observe, either re-sleeve in your choice of color and material (mediocre choice), or replace each wire, one by one, with new ones to your desired length.

I know he found a pin out. You forgot a digital multi meter however
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by baalbelphegor View Post

Thanks that really helped a lot, I really appreciate it!

I wouldn't go completely off book and say all 12v are equal and the likes though (even though that probably would work), but at the very least most pinouts that are for the G2/P2/T2 seem to be working on all of the same unit at least. Either way it's easy to get them to look good even if you have to cross wires, you just have to make sure to do all the crossing near the PSU and it won't be noticed in the build. The most important thing to keep consistent on these is the wire gauge and the caps. Youre fine using thick wires where a thin one was intended but not the other way around.

Assuming single rail psu you are correct. 5v to 5v 3.3 to 3.3 and 12 to 12.
Grounds are all the same ground
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post #13444 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Caps DO NOT need to be kept but it does make voltage reg worse (not horrible) i should also note that the leadex that these are based from DO NOT have caps
I know he found a pin out. You forgot a digital multi meter however
Assuming single rail psu you are correct. 5v to 5v 3.3 to 3.3 and 12 to 12.
Grounds are all the same ground

Well, there you go. 12v to 12v, 5v to 5v and 3.3v to 3.3v. Makes it a hell of a lot easier than following the pinout from EVGA.
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post #13445 of 14448
Hey everyone

I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.

I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...

How do you make them look good? damn...
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post #13446 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by geort45 View Post

Hey everyone

I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.

I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...

How do you make them look good? damn...

You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.
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post #13447 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by baalbelphegor View Post

So I've checked OC for some pinouts and luckily there is one for the 1000w P2. After reading for a while as far as I can tell it looks like my power supply follows the atx standard for the 24 pin.

This means I won't have to criss-cross wires, correct?
ATX standard (Click to show)
EVGA 1000 p2 (Click to show)

I was thinking I would just have to buy an 8 pin and leave out two wires since it's going to just a 6 pin but then again, I could just use an 8 pin that goes to 6+2 and let the +2 hang out behind the motherboard tray thinking.gif

actually youre fine with either one you follow as it seems. So far I have successfully used 3 different layouts with mine, the one that came with my PSU was like nothing I have seen so far on the forum then there was one that I copied and used. then there is yet another one that my EVGA sleeved cables came with that is currently working flawlessly.

Other than the capasitors needing to be in the same spot (if you have 1000w or less you don't really need them), you can really just go with any layout as you want. I'm currently resleeving my cables to get them correctly and I forgot to mark up the correct one again so I will probabyl copy one from the forum for the cap placing and use the one that the EVGA cables has.

You answered my previous question but I wanted to make sure that according to the pictures I provided, I wouldn't have to cross wires for the 24pin, right?
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post #13448 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by geort45 View Post

Hey everyone

I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.

I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...

How do you make them look good? damn...

You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.

He ment straight from one pin to another. Some psus (most actually) have more then one wore per pin on several pins.


Usually you can't help this. But the way to make it look ok is to do it. (I know helpful right? There are several guides. Are you doing heatshrinkless?
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USS CLM8-1701
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Her Venom
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R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  F3-2400C10D-16GTX  OCZ Agility 3 120GB  
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OCZ Agility 3 120GB  Seagate Barracuda 1TB  Segate Barracuda 3TB Rosewill RCR-IM5001 USB2.0 75 in 1 internal Car... 
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Pioneer BDR-208DBK Blu-ray Writer Swiftech H20-220 EDGE HD Liquid Cooling Kit Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech MCP-35X2 
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Swiftech MCP35X2 Heat Sink Swiftech MCP35X Reservoir Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech Komodo 7970 
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Alphacool 240mm XT45 Alphacool 120mm XT45 Alphacool 120mm UT60 FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition... 
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Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-R... Swiftech Komodo 7970 Windows 7 Windows 8  
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Swiftech Apogee HD Windows 7 Windows 8 LG E2242 
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post #13449 of 14448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by geort45 View Post

Hey everyone

I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.

I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...

How do you make them look good? damn...

You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.

He ment straight from one pin to another. Some psus (most actually) have more then one wore per pin on several pins.


Usually you can't help this. But the way to make it look ok is to do it. (I know helpful right? There are several guides. Are you doing heatshrinkless?

me? yea hs-less. I'll cross one row into the other and make that cross be hidden where the cable goes through a drive bay
amzServer
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amzServer
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post #13450 of 14448
Thought id share some pics of my sleeving project in progress. Im going with heatshrinkless setup and will post an update ive got one more 8 pin to go!
Zen Ninja
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Zen Ninja
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