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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 1444

post #14431 of 14577


These are the combs or wire wraps I was talking about. I havn't been able to find any like these or even 3D blue prints to have printed out with a 3D Printer.
post #14432 of 14577
If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there supplies(Connectors, Terminals or even Barrow Fittings). There a massive sale sitewide today only.
post #14433 of 14577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Well Steel is made from metal, So technically it's still metal. wink.gif
For steel there is no need ta add azote with high pressure. Only air. For aluminium azote is needed.

I understand your joke, but steel is the alloy of iron and carbon. Metall is not the substance. So technically the steel is iron with carbon

Now we can produce the holders almost for everything (like you needed for fan sleeves). Why I'm started the manufacturing of holders- because I'm also can't found custom holders for molex, SATA power, fan etc. And I'm very happy that I can help other people to find that they maybe need
post #14434 of 14577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there supplies(Connectors, Terminals or even Barrow Fittings). There a massive sale sitewide today only.
Yes, I bought. The prices are very good!! Try it. The additional discount is 20% (coupons of Aliexpress and supplier) plus 10% base discount
Edited by Modpcru - 11/11/17 at 9:40am
post #14435 of 14577
Hi there! We made it! Steel cable holders 24 pin (2 mm or ~1/12 inch width):


Cable kit for Corsair RM750 with acrylic cable holders (purchased):
post #14436 of 14577
I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job! thumb.gif
     
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post #14437 of 14577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

lachen.giflachen.giflachen.giflachen.gif If only! All seriousness aside, I going to be building a "power strip" except, instead of 120v outlets, it will have 16 or 17 SATA power connectors installed as sockets in a Wiremold strip. The strip will run vertically at the back of the 5.25" cage in the case I'm building with one "outlet" for each of the 14 bays plus two or three extra outlets for whatever (I would rather have them and not need them than to need them and not have them). To keep the cable feeding the power strip from showing, it will enter the strip from the PSU enclosure through a hole in the back of the strip and will splice into the wiring around two or three "outlets" (hence the need for the 18th insulation stripping).

Interesting analog, that power strip. Hypothetically, you could take the industrial approach to power provisioning, something along the lines of what's used in server and other racks, vme backplanes/cages, etc., building in a power bus of sorts. I had considered that myself at one time and still am thinking about using a hybrid solution made out of strips of copper and an insulating strategy that would help keep me from turning into a human glow lamp, if but to be different from the mainstream. It comes with with its own unique safety risks of course which can be mitigated, and while it's not necessarily for the faint of heart, it certainly is feasible.

Anyway, that's what your power strip brought to mind at this end.

Essentially, the power strip is a power bus. You may have just given me an idea. I'll do a bit of research and number crunching first. Btw, human glow lamp made me chuckle.

The idea you gave me was to use copper bus bar in the connector slots instead of wire but, after calculating the size of a bus bar I could make and comparing it's ampacity to that of #14 and #12 wire, I found it was close to #14 but came up short compared to #12. Then I tried to find some .028" x 3/16" copper strips and came up with bupkis. I was able to find some brass sheet I could cut down but that would reduce ampacity even further so I just abandoned the idea.

I did come up with the idea to get some .028" feeler gauge stock to stick into the #2 and #4 slots of a SATA power connector so punching down the wire into slots #1, #3, and #5 wouldn't collapse slots #2 and #4, especially when punching down oversized wire. I found some that were 12" long at McMaster.com so I ordered a couple of them. Here, after degreasing them, I have them inserted into the #2 and #4 slots.




I was able to punch down #12 wire (with the insulation stripped off in the area of the connector) in #1 and #5 slots without much trouble. #3, on the other hand, drove me nuts because I couldn't see what I was doing (my old eyes didn't help any, either) and the feeler gauges were in the way of the punch down tool (I'm glad I bought the Molex tool, btw). If I had to do it again (and I pray to God I don't; this subproject was a frustrating beast!), I would punch down #1 and # 5 first, pull the feeler gauges out, put one of the gauges into the #3 slot, punch down #2, and #4, pull the gauge, then punch down #3. Naturally, I couldn't get all the strands of #12 into the slots so the remainder had to just lay across the top of the slot, which was fine for my purposes since I wasn't going to use a cover on each connector (the Wiremold cover served that purpose). Using the feeler strips, I probably could have punched down #14 without having to strip the wires first.

This is the power strip before painting...



...and after painting.



The second hardest part about painting the strip was masking all the connectors so I wouldn't spray paint on them (I used two light coats of Krylon Fusion). The hardest part was getting that tape back off of the connectors.

Since no one makes a straight male connector body yet, I'm going to cheat and just use SATA power extension cables or Y cables and cut off the non-male end to make the jumper cables to go from the power strip to the 5.25" bay devices. I'll probably power the hubs for the bottom intake fans and the top exhaust fans from this strip since the 12v will otherwise be underutilized since I will only be using SSDs—up to eight—instead of HDDs.

I still need to cut a 1/8" x 1" strip of aluminum to go onto the back of the power strip, drill and tap screw holes, then, after painting the strip, use 3M VHB mounting tape to secure the aluminum strip to the back of the power strip so I can use screws to secure the strip to the left side panel of the 5.25" bay (I could tape the power strip directly to the panel but it would be in the way if I ever needed to work on the panel). The wires coming out the back of the power strip will go directly through the 5.25" bay side panel into the PSU enclosure.

I won't sleeve the wires coming out the back until I have the PSU bay and PSU installed in the case and can determine how long the cable needs to be. I'll just use a single sleeve over all five wires (yeah, I know, blasphemy) to keep the wires corralled; it will all be inside the PSU enclosure out of sight anyway.
     
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
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Samsung 850 EVO 4TB SSDs Samsung 950 Pro 512GB m.2 SSD boot drive Noctua NH-D15S Cpu cooler Win 7 Ultimate 
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDR... 128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD LG 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Inter... COOLER MASTER GeminII S524 120mm Long Life Slee... 
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Windows 7 Ultimate 3 x Asus VG248QE Vizio VO320E 32" TV Logitech G510s 
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ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels 24-... LSI 9211-8i HBA card HooToo® HT-CR001 3.5" PCI-E to USB 3.0 Multi-in... StarTech HSB220SAT25B 2 Drive 2.5in Trayless Ho... 
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post #14438 of 14577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job! thumb.gif
Maybe you the only one who tell the truth and facts! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
There is another work with only one black element - SATA power connector (I couldn't find it in white color):


I did it the same way:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post


My Custom Made RGB Cable for farbwerk.
- The male end is double heatshrinked. 1st layer is adhesive heatshrink, then 2nd layer covers that heatshrink and holds the sleeving in place.

Edited by Modpcru - 11/20/17 at 1:19am
post #14439 of 14577
^ ????

Not 100% why you quoted me but nothing was said.
post #14440 of 14577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job! thumb.gif

Yes you are smile.gif . Cable Combs can clean up messy wiring, I'm use my Fiber Carbon Cable combs mainly to create a better and tighter arch on my cables.
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