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post #3681 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmasherBasher;12537533 
Here's a quick crimp I just got done doing with my inferior crimping tool from Frozen CPU


Done
ad2d8f22.jpg

smile.gif
As anyone can see:
  • With your crimping-tool, the only physical connection which holds the crimp-terminal to the wire, is the part on the bare wire. There the little wings of the terminal are "overlapped", but not even twirled, on the bare wire strands. This could even be achieved with a normal plier.
  • The longer wings which should go into the insultation and twirl on the inside of it (non visible), are not supporting the hold of crimp-terminal and wire, because they are simply sitting "around" the wire. It is like the ring on a finger, you can simply pull it off.

Conclusion:
Only the small section on the bare-wire-strands holds the crimp to the wire (but just overlapped, so a 1 dimensional force instead a 2 dimensional force). This is a very unstable hold and the pin gets off the wire much easier, when you pull on the cable (if the wire is inside the connector).

You could have used a simple plier and won't have needed a crimping tool to achieve such a crimp-result. The rear-wings of the crimp-terminal are also too short for the cable size in use, but that doesn't matter, because if they were longer, they would simply overlap with this tool smile.gif




Happy modding everyone and hopefully logical explanations / break-downs of situations find some hearing here at OCN, because "just bashing and thinking but not knowing" is always a huge waste of time and confuses unbiased people. smile.gif
post #3682 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dualbrain;12541438 
smile.gif
As anyone can see:
  • With your crimping-tool, the only physical connection which holds the crimp-terminal to the wire, is the part on the bare wire. There the little wings of the terminal are "overlapped", but not even twirled, on the bare wire strands. This could even be achieved with a normal plier.
  • The longer wings which should go into the insultation and twirl on the inside of it (non visible), are not supporting the hold of crimp-terminal and wire, because they are simply sitting "around" the wire. It is like the ring on a finger, you can simply pull it off.

Conclusion:
Only the small section on the bare-wire-strands holds the crimp to the wire (but just overlapped, so a 1 dimensional force instead a 2 dimensional force). This is a very unstable hold and the pin gets off the wire much easier, when you pull on the cable (if the wire is inside the connector).

You could have used a simple plier and won't have needed a crimping tool to achieve such a crimp-result. The rear-wings of the crimp-terminal are also too short for the cable size in use, but that doesn't matter, because if they were longer, they would simply overlap with this tool smile.gif




Happy modding everyone and hopefully logical explanations / break-downs of situations find some hearing here at OCN, because "just bashing and thinking but not knowing" is always a huge waste of time and confuses unbiased people. smile.gif

Dude I keep telling you that it's how the tool is used. Try adjusting the tool and see what your result will be.

Also that's a standard pin. His tool is just not fully adjusted to complete the circuit. I have that same tool. But I guess I'll just have to dig up a piece of 18 guage to prove it to you.rolleyes.gif lol

More often than not it's the operator and not the tool. You being a tool guy should know this.tongue.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
 
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post #3683 of 14328
Caeddar, I understand you more than well. You might just don't know the background that HanLong changed its production style about 1.5 to 2 years ago, so they moved away from the "twirl" brackets, because of precision problems in the required manufacturing process. So they went the simple route and changed the brackets so they simply overlap the wings of the terminals, to still be able to manufacture them for 6 US-Dollars (I know the prices).

2 years ago, the HanLong crimpers were good (if you were lucky to get one which was precisely manufactured (50% to 60% chance). Until they changed to overlap. These crimpers you can adjust as much as you want - it will never twirl the wings anymore, because the brackets aren't made for it anymore.
post #3684 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dualbrain;12541524 
Caeddar, I understand you more than well. You might just don't know the background that HanLong changed its production style about 1.5 to 2 years ago, so they moved away from the "twirl" brackets, because of precision problems in the required manufacturing process. So they went the simple route and changed the brackets so they simply overlap the wings of the terminals, to still be able to manufacture them for 6 US-Dollars (I know the prices).

2 years ago, the HanLong crimpers were good (if you were lucky to get one which was precisely manufactured (50% to 60% chance). Until they changed to overlap. These crimpers you can adjust as much as you want - it will never twirl the wings anymore, because the brackets aren't made for it anymore.

Well I have to say that it's entirely possible I got one of the good ones. Cause I have to say this tool appropriately used and cared for should last me for a long time. Long enough to where my fingers have ceased to work.

Funny thing is when I got it, I immediately pulled it out of the package and gave it a go w/o cable or pin. Bugger this thing took some hand strength to operate. I immediately adjusted it to let some of the tension off. I think doing so allows for more pressure to be used on the overall crimp not just one side or the other. For me I dialed it back 2 clicks on the ratchet mechanism.

I cannot say with 100 percent certainty that all Han Loong crimpers are the same but my experience with the tool has been more than exceptional.biggrin.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
 
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post #3685 of 14328
How do you adjust them? I will retry this today after work and post new results. smile.gif
post #3686 of 14328
ahh i came here to see some awsome sleaved rigs, and the last 5-6 pages is just people argueing about tools not being the same :-(
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post #3687 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortySmalls;12542957 
ahh i came here to see some awsome sleaved rigs, and the last 5-6 pages is just people argueing about tools not being the same :-(
Meh...half of this thread is just conversation...just start at the beginning and work your way through only looking at the pics biggrin.gif
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post #3688 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmasherBasher;12542895 
How do you adjust them? I will retry this today after work and post new results. smile.gif

On the left side of the tool where all the philips heads are, toward the top handle you'll see a cog. You remove the screw and ratchet til it hits the next valley allowing you to reinsert the screw and tighten it. If you take some 18ga and strip it you can check to see it the tool is getting the correct amount of pressure to crimp the insulation. Don't worry about the rest of the crimp as that will be applied reasonably well. Crimping the insulation is what gives your pin stability. If it doesn't work don't worry you have 5 valleys in the cog not including the one your tool originally came set up with.

Take your time don't be in a hurry and not every tool has the exact same action. It's a bit like Overclocking. What works for me the first time may not work for you. I'm actually in the next to the last firmest setting.

It's marked with (-)<
>(+) markings so you know which direction that you've got to go to apply or relieve tension. Now I'm not exactly sure how to relieve the spring tension other than to work the ratchet. It may be you need to use a flat blade to work the inner ratchet mechanism in the opposite direction. Which is another reason to go slow. You don't want to disable it trying to get the proper tension only to find out you were traveling the wrong direction.

Hope this helps.cheers.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
 
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post #3689 of 14328
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post #3690 of 14328
That's such a sexy alternative to black IMO.
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