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post #4501 of 14576
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post #4502 of 14576
Yeah took all of a couple minutes to google search it up, thanks though wink.gif

If Urban hadn't mentioned tin eye I might have never found her tongue.gif
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post #4503 of 14576
24 pin, 6 pin x2 and 8 pin albeit hard to see
aefdd243-3e42-ae0d.jpg

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post #4504 of 14576
Nice ^^

Now get that 470 under water tongue.gif
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post #4505 of 14576
Quote:
Originally Posted by zactillow;13357599 
What's a good home made tool to get the wires out of the connectors? I've heard about staples and safety pins but nothing with instruction. Any help is appreciated! Wish me luck!

Using staples is cheap and fairly easy albeit slightly more time consuming.
3be256.jpg
Most of the time I had to use the molex aux extractor to push them out as to not strip the wire because the staples were tight.

Here's one of the safety pin variety as well. There aren't instructions but the pics are self explanitory.
http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion.html#post8377153

Good luck!
post #4506 of 14576
Meh I think your pic speaks to itself as to the need for an ATX tool.

I use the one in this first pic and it's available for $10+shipping from performance-pcs.com

The second pic is my Molex tool which I got from MDPC-x which is a really functional tool for how cheap it is.

And the third tool is the one I could've saved $40 on that I had to purchase from performance-pcs.com because I thought that I could get away with doing something for nothing and used both staples and the diaper pin tool.

If you have a Corsair or Seasonic PSU, forget cheaping out. They're difficult enough to separate from their connectors with a proper tool. No need to complicate things by cheaping out.... Oh and weighing in on the color shrink? I think that it looks rather nice when you cut a different path and alternate the color with the black or white sleeves depending on the color. I think my red shrink looks rather nifty on my Black Sleeves. 2cents.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
Edited by Ceadderman - 5/2/11 at 5:23pm
 
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post #4507 of 14576
^^Just speaking from my limited experience with it. smile.gif If that atx tool is the one that came with the Sunbeam kit you're better off with the staples half the time...
post #4508 of 14576
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprower;13359375 
^^Just speaking from my limited experience with it. smile.gif If that atx tool is the one that came with the Sunbeam kit you're better off with the staples half the time...

Nope it's not from SunBeam. I honestly do not know who makes it but it's pretty tough considering the price I paid for it.

The thing is though that any tool so long as the tips are spring steel should be up to the task without breakage. You don't have to flex on them at all. Which imh:2cents:, is the cause of most breakage regarding pin tools. Yes there are some really cheaply constructed tools that should never have seen the light of day as a tool. Those round single piece tools being one of them. Sure in some instances they work but they're round and as anyone that ever used a tool can tell you round hand tools have a habit of spinning in your hand when they need to maintain steady pressure. Couple that with difficult pins like you'll find on Seasonic Boxes and that's a recipe for frustration.

I use a combination of tools when I'm confronted with a stubborn connector. One of which is a solder probe with the straight tip. A little pressure on one side then the other will narrow the pin enough to get the tool over the barbs and get them to collapse enough to pull the lead. You don't even have to hold the pin tool and personally you shouldn't have to. Just don't jank on the lead otherwise that tool is going to be catapulted out of the connector. That can be pretty dangerous if people walk in and out of your work area.

With this tool having the single tip as well however, I use the single tip to collapse stubborn pins one side at a time. It will not damage the pin, and it makes short work of stubborn pin/connector issues without breaking the pin in the housing(I've gotten a couple of those without a pin tool) or pulling the wire out of the pin also leaving it inside the housing.

Trust me with the PSUs' that I've sleeved, you're better off with a reliable pin tool. If this one was not up to snuff, it would not be on my bench. And I will not promote a tool if it is not on my bench.wink.gif

~Ceadder:drink:
 
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post #4509 of 14576
1/16" thick 5055 aluminum sheet

10-32 threaded button head machine screw + nut

two ground-down steel jigsaw blades

= ATX/P4/EPS/PCI-E pin remover

cost = free (already had all the parts)


IMG_4350.jpg
IMG_4353.jpg


works 10 times better than ANY tool I've ever bought for the purpose

not to mention that the steel jigsaw blades don't bend or break nearly as easily as the prongs on the POS ATX pin removers that everyone sells... I mean come on, they're strong enough to cut through metal while reciprocating 50+ times per second - easily strong enough to remove some lil' punk ass molex pins
Edited by CrimsonMango - 5/2/11 at 9:15pm
    
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post #4510 of 14576
I dunno, but maybe it might be safer if you used a longer bolt and added a couple washers to both sides to hold those blades a bit more firmly.

Still as I point out a lot of it is in how you use the tool. If you're the kind of guy that uses a long piece of pipe as a cheater bar, there aren't many tools that will stand up very long to the kind of abuse you would have no thought about doling out to it. wink.gif

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