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post #6391 of 14438
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrazeau1115 View Post

That is because the longer the cable the more resistance and thus the increase in fluctuation in power... which the capactior stablizes.

Well the resistance in those wires is VERY small. I thought about replacing the sense wire with a small resistor, but I couldn't find any that's got such a small capacity. The only option would've been 1cm of very low resistance constantan wire. I almost ordered some until I've noticed that all those multimeters that I was about to buy couldn't even measure such small amounts of resistance. -> I decided not to do that. (.. because I coudn't even have verified the modification I've done)
I can't imagine that those tiny tiny resistance-values can make a noticeable difference in the performance of the psu. So I'd just say that it doesn't matter where those caps are located, as long as they stay in the same circuit you should be alright.


@Lutro0: Which caps do you mean that should be near the psu? I made an Excel file where I've collected all the information that I have about those cables. -> colours, double wires and caps (with polarity)
and as far as I can tell, all those caps are on the other end of the cables (on the components' side). Did I miss anything?^^
post #6392 of 14438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furion92 View Post

Well the resistance in those wires is VERY small. I thought about replacing the sense wire with a small resistor, but I couldn't find any that's got such a small capacity. The only option would've been 1cm of very low resistance constantan wire. I almost ordered some until I've noticed that all those multimeters that I was about to buy couldn't even measure such small amounts of resistance. -> I decided not to do that. (.. because I coudn't even have verified the modification I've done)
I can't imagine that those tiny tiny resistance-values can make a noticeable difference in the performance of the psu. So I'd just say that it doesn't matter where those caps are located, as long as they stay in the same circuit you should be alright.
@Lutro0: Which caps do you mean that should be near the psu? I made an Excel file where I've collected all the information that I have about those cables. -> colours, double wires and caps (with polarity)
and as far as I can tell, all those caps are on the other end of the cables (on the components' side). Did I miss anything?^^

Ah, no I was just meaning ones that are on all sorts of different kinds of wires. Some 24 pin and some molex and what not. I am having an expert doing a write up for me right now on this whole thing, both in technical jargon and in everyday language and I will be compiling it into my faq this week.
post #6393 of 14438
need more pics in here...

6956752475_30a07f29c4_z.jpg
John Sleeve in the Make by Lutro0, on Flickr
post #6394 of 14438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

need more pics in here...

6956752475_30a07f29c4_z.jpg
John Sleeve in the Make by Lutro0, on Flickr

Oh now, Flikr is blocked at work frown.gif

And here's my updated rig with some sleeved extensions made by a certain awesome someone on this forum in this thread in the post above me...

I'm aware I need to fix the rainbow effect though...

450
CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Acer Media 220 W SFF Acer X1800 Acer Optical 
Mouse PadAudio
The TV cabinet Denon 2808 7.1 AVR + Dahlquist 350W 8" Sub + Kl... 
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CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Acer Media 220 W SFF Acer X1800 Acer Optical 
Mouse PadAudio
The TV cabinet Denon 2808 7.1 AVR + Dahlquist 350W 8" Sub + Kl... 
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post #6395 of 14438
And some more....


6956907307_cc82f29d2c_z.jpg
John 24 Side by Lutro0, on Flickr

6956899527_86c11b8b02_z.jpg
John 24 Full by Lutro0, on Flickr

6956871863_db12ea2fb9_z.jpg
John 24 Uptop by Lutro0, on Flickr

6956886155_e615526c53_z.jpg
John fun by Lutro0, on Flickr
post #6396 of 14438
Can you get more than 1 wire into a paracord sleeve?
Because I've received my white "paracord" today and it's 3mm in diameter. I just testfitted a little piece on one of my cables and it's insanely tight.

I'm not sure whether to use it or not. It's very hard to get over the pin (although covered!).
Let's see how the treatment with chlorine works, because it's just not bright enough for me to look perfect.

I might aswell order some black mdpc-x sleeve (would be my third order from Nils within one week xD) to cover all those triple wires (fans). That would go well with my theme, too.

What would you guys suggest? Getting some "real" paracord and sleeving all cables including those triples from the fans? Or going for the tight look and finding a solution for the fan cables?
I really don't know what to do...
post #6397 of 14438
it is hard enough to get one wire in paracord ... I can get all 3 wires on a fan in paracord though
post #6398 of 14438
EPIC FAIL -.-

Alright, so I sat down today to do all the soldering of the caps and the sense wire.

Well, that's what I intended to do...

Long story short: the OEM of OCZ used a solder that seems to be melting beyond 500°C (that's how far my soldering iron goes).

-> couldn't remove the solder from the downside to take one pcb out (that way I coud've had a lot more space to work more carefully)
-> couldn't even cover those pins with my own solder to attach the caps/wires...... It just kept pearling away.... hmmsmiley02.gif

I'm gonna pack that thing up and take it to my company tomorrow, so that I can ask for some wise words from our soldering gods. Hopefully they can help me out. Otherwise I just spent 400€ for a standard power supply...

Oh and yeah, the chlorine treatment of my paracord made it...... wait for it........ DARKER and matt.
post #6399 of 14438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furion92 View Post

Long story short: the OEM of OCZ used a solder that seems to be melting beyond 500°C (that's how far my soldering iron goes).
-> couldn't remove the solder from the downside to take one pcb out (that way I coud've had a lot more space to work more carefully)
-> couldn't even cover those pins with my own solder to attach the caps/wires...... It just kept pearling away.... hmmsmiley02.gif

Maybe the pins are oxidised too much already. Did you use any flux? That should combat the pearling. I don't know which soldering iron you have, but it's possible that putting it up to 500C has ruined the tip and then it's hard for it to spread the heat effectively. The PSU design will be a great heat conductor and thus itself a strong heatsink, maybe lowering the overall temperature below melting point.

Edit: oh and 500C will certainly evaporate more quickly the flux which is included in the solder core.
Lori Lemaris 023
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Felicity Harmon
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Felicity Harmon
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post #6400 of 14438
@WiSK: The pins looked alright. I did use flux but couldn't reach there properly. Anyways there should've been some on the pins. I tried it with the recommended temperature for my iron (~310°C) and as it didn't work at all I turned it up to the max. You're right that my tip looks pretty ****ed up (oxidized all the way) although I tinned it at the beginning. Now the solder just drips off. I'm still curious what kind of metal they used to solder the whole psu....
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