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post #6591 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrant View Post

I feel like posting a picture...
406
ahh, feel so much better now yessir.gif

Are you going to make camo case and hide your computer to jungle? biggrin.gif
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post #6592 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrant View Post

I feel like posting a picture...
406
ahh, feel so much better now yessir.gif

Looks good. Reminds me of the seat cover my Dad had in his truck in the 80's.

450
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post #6593 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by MooMoo View Post

Are you going to make camo case and hide your computer to jungle? biggrin.gif

What the hell else what I do with it? wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badwrench View Post

Looks good. Reminds me of the seat cover my Dad had in his truck in the 80's.
450

Haha, thank you. The greatest compliment a man can receive! cowboy.gif
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post #6594 of 14272
Is it ok to use a cheap 24 pin extension cable with the Corsair HX850?

I was wondering because of the fact that it has a wierd design with some pins having 2 cables attached and one of the pins not being present.

Also, is there a way to remove male pins without an extraction tool?

Ive been having great success with staples for releasing the female ones but I'm stumped at how to do it for the male ones.

Cheers.
Edited by jonnylaris - 3/28/12 at 7:04am
post #6595 of 14272
I'm really stuck here, can't work out how to get these male pins out for the life of me. Anyone any ideas?

Edit: Got it afterall, staples ftw! biggrin.gif
Edited by jonnylaris - 3/28/12 at 10:45am
post #6596 of 14272
The Molex ones?

If so, use a Pen with the ink cartridge removed. I found the PaperMate Comfort works well.
 
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post #6597 of 14272
Still have to do my PCI-Express, and I need to order some black connectors (Fans on the H100 block, 8-pin to motherboard) but I'm happy with the look so far.

I might in the future go from a straight 24-pin to a 24-pin extension just so the wires don't have to cross over each other - they don't fall as elegantly as I would like them to.

400

400

400

400
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post #6598 of 14272
Some of my goodies from Mouser and Newark came today wheee.gif Pics below!

Once my MDPC crimper comes in I can't start fully sleeving my Seasonic X750 with my own wires and connectors!
Mouser (Click to show)
CPU 8 Pin
338


10-Pin (Part 1 of PSU side 24 Pin) My 16 Pin connector is on backorder but should be here by the end of the week!
338


6 Pin (PSU SIDE of Sata Power and 4-Pin Molex connectors) THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS PCIe 6 pin.
338
This is PCIe 6 pin (from molex's database) Notice the Curve, Curve, Flat/Flat,Curve,Curve of the connector
224
This is the 6-pin for Sata and Molex power on PSU side (from molex's database) notice the Curve, Flat, Flat/Flat, Curve, Curve of the connector
219
They are two separate part numbers.




Straight 24 pin
338


12-pin connector For PSU side (these are for each set of 2 PCIe Connectors. two 12pin PSU side = four 6-pin PCIe
338


240ct Molex Mini Fit Jr pins 39-00-0038
338
Newark (Click to show)


2x NTE 100ft Spools
Specs: 18 AWG (Stranded 16x30 AWG) UL1007 300V 90° - 105°
338


Almost Exactly 2mm
338


This should be perfect for the MDPC crimp tool

/edit

I also received my Performance PCs 6+2 pin and sata power and 4-pin connectors.

I regret buying the performance PC 6+2 pins now as they are sub par quality to the molex manufactured connectors.

Performance PC 6pin connector
700

Look around the holes in the connector how "chunky" and undefined they are
Now lets look at the Molex.


Molex Made 6 Pin
700

You can see very defined grooves and lines here, much higher quality, and whats even worse. It is actually cheaper to buy the molex brand. at $0.59/pc vs $1.00/pc from Perf-PC, Perf-PC also has much higher shipping costs.


Note the Molex 6 pin is the same as the one in the spoilers above. It is not a PCIe 6 pin, this is just to compare the quality of the molex connectors as all the molex made connectors look like this.

I didn't purchase the Molex 6 pin PCIe's because they do not have a 2pin addon , They make PCIe 8 pin connectors but I wanted the flexibility of having both without rewiring.
Edited by PappaSmurfsHarem - 3/28/12 at 12:04pm
     
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post #6599 of 14272
Hey all,
I know there are some people out there with the OCZ 850,1000,1250W PSU that want to sleeve them too...
Only problem is that every single cable bundle has those annoying capacitors and also the wiring is so far off 1:1 its not even funny stun.gif
My solution to this problem is to make all new wires from scratch. If this is also your solution then the following might be useful to you:

This is the way the factory cables come, they are so far off 1:1 i can't even believe it... (don't mind pin 20 not being used, that's normal)

617


After talking to the OCZ tech support, they provided me with this lovely pin layout for their PSU's

664


And here is the standard pin layout for a 24 pin ATX plug on the motherboard side of things (colors are not important, just the listed functions.)

699


So... after all that, I decided to clean up the way this thing is routed and this is the best I can do between the OCZ ZX series PSU's and a normal ATX MoBo.

353

This is how I will be wiring my OCZ PSU, hopefully this helps answer some of the questions people have about these power supplies. Enjoy thumb.gif


Also, regarding the different guages of wire this PSU has coming out of it, this is what OCZ had to say:
Quote:
The drive cables (SATA and Peripheral) use 18AWG wires. The PCIE and CPU power cables use 16AWG wires.

The 24-pin cable uses a variety of different size wires.

The green, grey, blue, and brown are the thinnest and look to be about 22AWG.
The purple wire is 18AWG. This is a single wire (+5VSB).
The others (black, yellow, orange, and other purple) are all 16AWG.

I think it's safe (easiest) to just go with 16AWG all around.


Hope this is helpful to someone biggrin.gif
Edited by BIackout - 3/29/12 at 11:35am
post #6600 of 14272
Any updates on where the best place to get sleeving? I live in Canada....

Looking for black and blue......
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