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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 678

post #6771 of 14328
Thanks. It took me forever to do the cable as there was double pins to take care of. I must have spent 30 minutes for each double wire.
448
Sorry for the off colour on the ends, my camera is not the greatest.
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post #6772 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by PappaSmurfsHarem View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post

I'll be doing all the wires of a connector with one sleeve. But I'm not sure If I'll bother re-sleeving the PSU, so I think I would only need to sleeve up to 4 pin molex cables, with the majority being 3pin fan cables and extensions. Eventually I will try making some custom length PSU cables, so I'll buy some stuff ahead of time to save on shipping. Let me know what will be the cheapest sleeving that will get the job done(keep the wires together), not too difficult to use, and doesn't melt or tear easily. I don't care if I can see the cables through the sleeve.

And I may get adhesive heatshrink instead of the MDPC stuff if it's cheaper. Could you tell me the pros and cons of it?

I'm confused? The X-Series already has a factory single sleeve over the wires, why would you want to redo it just to look basically the same?

Also the adhesive heatshrink has some good uses, from what I hear to tends to be somewhat "messy" however for a bundled single sleeve it probably wouldn't be horrible.

I must have been thinking about something else, such as sleeving a future $5-$10 external PSU, or the custom length cables I mentioned. redface.gif

 

Is the adhesive 3:1 and/or 2:1 going to hold the wires better than the MDPC 4:1 anb/or 3:1 respectively, assuming the same ID?

post #6773 of 14328
so i got my 24 pin cable done however it looks like crap because of the double wires that kept popping out. Also when i tried to bend the cable into the mobo socket, all the paracord came unstuck to the heatshrink and slid out of it. i brought a tear to my eye, all that hard work gone
post #6774 of 14328
Was wondering if anyone can pass on some tips on sleeving internal front panel USB/Audio cables? I'm not sure whether if I should be taking of the plastic sleeving cover off the USB/Audio cables or just sleeve over it? I tried doing it on my 650D's front panel USB cable, but it came out as a huge mess as I cut through the silver wire lining that was over the wires! Reeeally bad idea.

Thanks in advance!
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post #6775 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post

I must have been thinking about something else, such as sleeving a future $5-$10 external PSU, or the custom length cables I mentioned. redface.gif

Is the adhesive 3:1 and/or 2:1 going to hold the wires better than the MDPC 4:1 anb/or 3:1 respectively, assuming the same ID?

Adhesive lines would hold better but its messy and adds a huge bulk to the shrink, so it will be most likely that you will not get it into the connector using proper sleeving techniques. I would advise against using it as it also makes it hard to fix a mistake.

Adhesive does have its uses on certain things such as terminating a wire or shrinking the wire inside of non or semi modular psu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordocai rp View Post

so i got my 24 pin cable done however it looks like crap because of the double wires that kept popping out. Also when i tried to bend the cable into the mobo socket, all the paracord came unstuck to the heatshrink and slid out of it. i brought a tear to my eye, all that hard work gone

Mord, if you have not checked out my paracord sleeving guide video I would suggest you give it a look. When you cut the paracord you should be hitting with a lighter to seam together the fray end of the paracord this not only creates a tiny lip for the heatshrink to grip onto but stops it from fraying. Also sometime more heat is required than just the heat to shrink the HS. You must melt a tiny bit of the sleeve underneath as well, which is why a heatgun is so important when you sleeve.

Also double wires should be split like the pics above as sleeving two pins into a small atx connector with paracord is almost impossible firstly but will always look ugly, the Y split is so that the connectors can be with one wire and still keep it uniform.

Sorry to hear about the loss of all the work although sad-smiley-002.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hachi-chan View Post

Was wondering if anyone can pass on some tips on sleeving internal front panel USB/Audio cables? I'm not sure whether if I should be taking of the plastic sleeving cover off the USB/Audio cables or just sleeve over it? I tried doing it on my 650D's front panel USB cable, but it came out as a huge mess as I cut through the silver wire lining that was over the wires! Reeeally bad idea.
Thanks in advance!

You can sleeve over some of them or you can remove the connectors, If you check out my aspros mod it will give you some step by step pics of the process. Also a couple hints, removing the tinfoil may or may not be a good idea, so its up to you but you take a small risk of emi. The plastic used for the usb and front panel connectors melts extremely easy as its low temp plastic so use heat with caution. If you are heatshrinking over the connectors like I do make sure that your shrink wont interfere once you have to plug them in next to each other. When bending the clips to release the pins dont so much bend them but lift them just enough to pull out the pins (an exacto knife is perfect for this) , make sure to write down a diagram before you start so you dont mess them up.

Otherwise its a simple process, just take your time.
Edited by Lutro0 - 4/15/12 at 9:04pm
post #6776 of 14328
Thanks for the advice Lutro0! You're a great help smile.gif
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post #6777 of 14328
Do I need both THE ORIGINAL MOLEX MINI FIT JR and the Round MOLEX extracting tools? Or is one enough?
post #6778 of 14328
Lutro0 what would be your alternative to MDPC for black sleeve?

Thanks wheee.gif
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post #6779 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Mord, if you have not checked out my paracord sleeving guide video I would suggest you give it a look. When you cut the paracord you should be hitting with a lighter to seam together the fray end of the paracord this not only creates a tiny lip for the heatshrink to grip onto but stops it from fraying. Also sometime more heat is required than just the heat to shrink the HS. You must melt a tiny bit of the sleeve underneath as well, which is why a heatgun is so important when you sleeve.
Also double wires should be split like the pics above as sleeving two pins into a small atx connector with paracord is almost impossible firstly but will always look ugly, the Y split is so that the connectors can be with one wire and still keep it uniform.
Sorry to hear about the loss of all the work although sad-smiley-002.gif
.

i did exactly that, melted the fray at end so it sticks to the wire and then put the heatshrink on it. I'll resleeve at a later time with mdpc though. I thought paracord would be nice but now am seeing a different way. It looks nice but is harder to work with. But the double wires were fixed in a way that looks aethetic, i managed to get both wires into the crimp without splicing or anything. thanks for all the info though
post #6780 of 14328
Quote:
Originally Posted by darksen View Post

Do I need both THE ORIGINAL MOLEX MINI FIT JR and the Round MOLEX extracting tools? Or is one enough?

You will need both if you intend on doing a whole psu. The original tool is for square mini fit male and female pins and the round molex tool is for the 4pin round male and female pins.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiejuggalo View Post

Lutro0 what would be your alternative to MDPC for black sleeve?
Thanks wheee.gif

Phew, it really comes down to preference. But for price - furryletters(barry) on ebay sells techflex clean cut in black and gray and is great stuff. If you call him he will even make it cheaper for you. Do a search on ebay for 1/8 BRAIDED EXPANDABLE SLEEVING "CLEAN CUT"
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordocai rp View Post

i did exactly that, melted the fray at end so it sticks to the wire and then put the heatshrink on it. I'll resleeve at a later time with mdpc though. I thought paracord would be nice but now am seeing a different way. It looks nice but is harder to work with. But the double wires were fixed in a way that looks aethetic, i managed to get both wires into the crimp without splicing or anything. thanks for all the info though

Bummer, when you get a chance to work with MDPC it will be a whole different animal. Much more enjoyable.
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